CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Full hydro steering........with hydroboost brakes

6.2Blazer

3/4 ton status
Joined
Feb 24, 2000
Posts
5,009
Reaction score
240
Location
Ohio
I was getting ready to update my steering from the stock setup to crossover and started to think about just going full hydro. I like the idea of crossover with the ram assist, but I can't afford to do both at this time.......though I don't know what full hydro by itself will cost either. Just starting to get some full hydro research going.......

My biggest concern with either hydro assist or full hydro is that I have hydroboost brakes (it's a diesel, if you haven't guessed....) and have heard of people having issues with hydro assist and the brakes.

This will be for my '90 K5 that's pretty much a trailer queen. It just needs to be able to travel a few miles on public roads to get between the trailer parking lot and the trail.

This last weekend I talked to a couple of Jeep buggy guys out on the trail who just got orbital valves off of combines or whatever in the junkyard and said they worked good??? I've always heard the system needs matched, and I also want some steering control if the hydraulic system fails (I've read this is possible......basically like loosing power assist on normal steering).

So, anybody running full hyrdro??? Any issues?? How did you do it??
 
I run two pumps. A bone stock pump for the hydroboost and a KRC racing pump for the steering. It puts out 4gpm and 1800psi.

As far as an orbital heres what you need. You need to first pick your steering ram. Double ended balanced ram would be the best choice, or two single ended rams. If you run a single single ended ram you will end up with a different number of turns lock to lock from one way to another.

You need an Open Center Load Reacting orbital. You do not want Load Sensing. Load reacting means that when something hits the tires you will feel it in the steering wheel much like manual steering. This will also cause the return to center when coming around a corner which you will not have with a non-load reacting valve. Most tractor valves are non-load reacting.

And last, you need to calculate the volume of your ram. Say your ram is 22 cubic inches. This means it will take 22 cubic inches of hydraulic fluid to move the ram from one side to another. You need to figure out how many turns lock to lock you want in your steering wheel. Most want around 3-4. Say you want 3. Divide 22 by 3 and you get 7.33. This means you need an orbital valve that displaces 7.33 cubic inches of fluid per revolution.

I'm getting my valve from the local hydro shop. It's a danfoss unit that fits my needs perfectly.
 
When choosing a pump(if you go bigger or modify your pump) try and keep the pressure down. A hydro boost system doesnt like as high a pressure compared to regular steering system(non hydro boost) If you go to dual pumps you won't have to worry about it.


On my full hydraulic system with hydro boost I used an AGR pump that come with my rock ram. It seems to work pretty good so far. I would not go out and buy another one though, I replaced mine twice within a couple months and I have heard alot of other bad stories about them. I think if you just modified your stock pump it would work good enough.

Sean Stapely(STATION on the Pirate4x4 board) sells a high output pump(like 6.5gpm) that has 2 high pressure outs for like $160. Thats what I plan on doing when I go to the rear steer. Thats about what you would pay for and AGR pump. /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif
 
I know this post is old as dirt but I wanted to know if you made any progress with going full hydro on your 6.2 blazer?

I have a 6.2 rig as well and wanted to go full hydro.

What's your setup and what did it end up costing you in the end?
 
I know this post is old as dirt but I wanted to know if you made any progress with going full hydro on your 6.2 blazer?

I have a 6.2 rig as well and wanted to go full hydro.

What's your setup and what did it end up costing you in the end?

I haven't looked at this page for years, so ironic I glance at it today and find your post.

Never went full-hydro but did go hydro-assist a couple years ago. The only problem I had was getting the p/s belt to quit slipping. Wound up using two belts and since the belt slipping issue has been resolved it works great. 1.5" ram, pump modified for slightly more volume and pressure.
 
What advantage do you see in using full hydro assist? Are you just looking to eliminate your vacuum pump?
 
I asked this same question on Pirates and was told by many there will be no problem.I have the stock hydroboost pump from a 1ton truck and added the ram assist and box from a 93 chevy.Just got the lines modified the other day.But have yet to put them on and see how it works.Maybe this weekend.
 
On my full hydraulic system with hydro boost I used an AGR pump that come with my rock ram. It seems to work pretty good so far. I would not go out and buy another one though, I replaced mine twice within a couple months and I have heard alot of other bad stories about them. I think if you just modified your stock pump it would work good enough.
 
Any more updates on this?? About to do all the plumbing on my double ended ram with hydroboost brakes and been looking for more insight on it and some more successful stories and especially photos of doing so. Thanks-----------Kyle
 
Last edited:
My truck is a 1985ish K30. It has factory hydroboost. It was leaking so I replaced it with a Vanco unit, they also modified it for full hydro steering. I ditched the stock steering and went with a Howe single ended ram kit. They work very well together. With 54" Boggers or 47" LTBs it steers and stops better then a stock truck.

1478908237679-1504423394.jpg

1478908403754527035773.jpg

14789085212501547580273.jpg
 
Last edited:
Top Bottom