Gas tank restoration

[ecameron87]

I have a 37 gallon gas tank that has small leak if filled over 25 gallons.
It looks just like the one this guy is selling:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=154672
I was wondering what can be done to fix the problem? The leak is located behind a tab that is welded into the side of the tank that keeps the tank from moving while installed. There is not any rust inside the tank as far as I can tell. IIs welding the tank my only option, or can I use the POR-15 Fuel System Restoration? If so, how much do I use?

 

[resurrected_jimmy]

You can use POR-15 and it looks like it would need about 1 1/2 quarts to seal it. http://www.prp-porstore.com/index.htm I would guess if you could get to it from the outside there me be a way to patch it without having to remove the tank and completely drain it. Maybe some sort of epoxy that won't break down when exposed to fuel.

 

[73k5blazer]

I really like the Re-nu process. They will weld any holes, and dunk the tank in a super -tough expoy so it gets coated inside and out. Never will it rust again, they even hold up here in MI. I've done my C10 tanks, I did my K5 tank, I did another C10 tank about 10 years ago, still looks new and it's a DD of my friends, constantly pelted with salt, snow, rain etc. ABout $100 per tank, which is the price a new tank would cost.
If it's a tank they have in stock , you can just exchange too.
Trouble for you is location, doesn't look like there is one near you.

http://www.gastankrenu.com/

 

[ecameron87]

Yeah I checked into the re-nu stuff and couldn't find anything in Arizona. I have tried quite a few epoxies and so far nothing has worked.

 

[Chaddy]

I wonder if fiberglass rezin would work?

 

[85burbanator]

i used to help re nu gas tanks at the rad shop i worked at here in lake orion. its a good way to stop any leaks and prevent further rust, heres how it all goes down.

first we'd drain any fuel out off the tank. then we'd drill some 1/2" holes in 2 corners of the tank at high points. then we'd flush the inside of the tank out for a few minutes to make sure there is nothing left inside. sometimes we would have to burn the tanks to get any undercoating or anything off it. then we would strap in into a wheelibater(sp) which is a huge media blasting (we used steel beads) machine that sorta works like a rotisserie. we'd have it go one way for about 5 minutes then the other way for about 5 minutes. we instepct and either leave it in longer or take it up to the big blast cabinet and manually blast the inside and whatever material is left on the outside of the fuel tank. we would then blow the tank off inside and out with air and ensure that all the blasting media and dust is removed from the tank.
we'd weld up any holes and put a plug in on of the 1/2" holes. we use straight re nu (its thicker) to fill in any large holes (usually around were the straps would go and around the plug). we would use a heat gun to cure the re nu. then would used a diluted mix of renu and acetone and pour in inside the tank, then roll or slosh the tanks around to ensure full coverage. we would then pour the remaining renu out the remaining 1/2" hole. bake at 350" for 15 minutes. plug the rmaining hole and put straight renu on it the coat the top portion and bake for same time and temp, then coat bottom and bake for same time and temp. letting cool between each baking step.

usually takes about 3-4 hours for an average size tank depending on how long it takes to prep it. deffinatly the way to go and it works on diesel tanks as well. i say go that route and you wont be sorry.

 

[diesel4me]

yes--and no!

I've used fiberglass resin and cloth on gas tanks before..it does work,but I only had temporary results..about 6 months later ,it would always start weeping and dripping again..

I had the tank out of my 72 Chevelle wagon 4 times in 2 years..finally brought it to a body shop guy who soldered it after shooting a CO2 fire extingusher into the drained and flushed tank!..THEN the fiberglass resin/cloth held as long as I owned it..another 2 years,before I sold it..I noticed the tank was moist there again though!.. ...

I don't think ANY of the "over the counter" epoxies sold at parts stores, even "gas tank sealer", really holds up under exposure to gas for long..I know J-B- Weld seems to work the longest..that Permatex "Duro" ribbon stuff you can supposedly stick to gas wet metal..yeah--RIGHT!! --Bazooka bubble gum would work as well as that crap,and be much cheaper too!..

I've used "Mar-Glass" fiberglass body filler to seal up a few leaky "pinholey" tanks too..but its temporary at best..works when the leak is on the top of the tank pretty good..not so great nearer the bottom..

I'd say a NEW tank,if available from "Spectra" would be the best way out..might cost a few hundred clams though..J.C. Whitney used to sell "oversized" gas tanks too,some were available in plastic as well..