Getting the Blazer lift tuned in

[Yukon Jack]

I set the 14 bolt axle in place last night. The front Dana 44 is sitting on 4" lift springs. The rear springs are stock and right now there is a 4" block in place that was used with the Blazer's original axle. I made the spring perches about 1" taller than the stock ones but as it sits now the rear is to high compared to the front. The below pic doesn't show the stance very well - I will have to move the 69 so I can get a full side shot.

From the ground to the bottom of the rear wheel well lip is 43 3/4".

From the ground to the bottom of the front wheel well lip is 41 1/2".

Sure looks like a 2" lift block instead of the 4" lift block would get it sitting right.

Also, when the hard top comes off, do I remember that the rear will raise roughly 1" due to the loss of weight?


I like the stance of the following rigs that I've seen pics of recently: Burt4x4, 70jimmy, Canadian Trailblazer, vtblazer's blue rig.

Can any of you get me measurements like what I posted above to see roughly what I want to shoot for?

 

[Greg72]

Are you eventually going to a D60 up front?

When I swapped mine in, I lost the stance I liked and it became sort of layed back (Long Beach Style!) looking. I ended up adding longer rear shackles to get about another 1" of lift out back.....that got things back to the stance I wanted.

Now the whole truck sits too high for my tastes, so I'll probably pull the 2" body lift for a 1" to get it where I liked it.

The moral of the story is plan ahead liftwise if you're going D60. Maybe set up the D44 with a 1" ZeroRate to simulate the "D60 Effect"????

 

[Yukon Jack]

I wouldn't pass up a Dana 60 if I found one reasonable, but I won't be actively looking for one.

 

[Burt4x4]

The way I have mine is
4" front spring lift w/D44
Rear is 5.5" spring lift w/D60
3" bodylift & poly mounts
35" SSRs

Remember that pre-made spring packs are almost allways made to Pick-Up weight specs, that is why you will see the "saggy Butt" syndrom on K5s more than on Pick-Ups. Blazers have a heay Butt!

 

[Yukon Jack]

Could either of you get measurements like I posted above?

That will help me figure out how much to adjust the rear lift - just standing to the side it is a little difficult to decide when it is actually sitting level. The K5's kind of give me an optical illusion.

 

[Greg72]

Could either of you get measurements like I posted above?

That will help me figure out how much to adjust the rear lift - just standing to the side it is a little difficult to decide when it is actually sitting level. The K5's kind of give me an optical illusion.

DISCLAIMER:

• Measured in the dirt (not on pavement)
• Tires stick out further than the fenders so getting an exact measurement is tough.

Front: 45.5" (This is on the "unmodified" front fender )
Rear: 46.25"


Specs:
38.5" Tires
4" ORD Custom Front springs
ORD Shackleflip Rear w/88K5 stock springs
2" extensions added to stock rear shackles
2" Body Lift
D60 front w/6* caster shim
14BFF Rear with custom spring perches

 

[Canadian Trailblazer]

I can get you some pretty exact measurements in the morning when I get home from work. I am running a D60 with 4" springs with the mounts and shackle mounts lowered 1.5". In the back I have a 2" block with home made leaf packs, a compression shackle with a goofy spring. I'll just get you the measurements.

 

[Yukon Jack]

Thanks. It looks like if the bottom of the wheel wells are about equal, the K5's have a nice level stance.

 

[Yukon Jack]

Okay, got the K5 I think pretty level last night by insert a 2" spacer (just temporary) in place of the 4" block. Here's how it is sitting.

I think with the top off it will still have a good stance. The spring perches I made are long enough that I can move the spring pack center pin hole back about an 1" to 1 1/2" to get the rear axle located better in the wheel opening.

Now I have to look into a 2" lift block. I think I might have a line on a guy on another board who has a set he doesn't need. Not so sure the 4" blocks that I have could be cut down very easily - but that is something to consider. For now I don't think I will go with new rear springs.

Had a heck of a time centering the rear axle. I was measuring from the back surface of the drum brakes to the edge of the spring pack and while everything looked centered, the measurement was off by 1". Scratched my head for a while and finally saw that the driver side hub/brake unit is 1" wider than the passenger side. Changed to measuring from the edge of the rim to the spring pack and now the axle is pretty much centered. (still need to move it maybe 1/8" of an inch or so one direction.)

Not sure why the driver side hub/brake unit is wider, must just be the way the 14 bolt's are made.

Hopefully I will get out tonight and get the axle moved back a little then get ready to set the pinion angle. Then I need to take it to a friend to weld the perches in place.

I think I'm seeing the light at the end of the tunnel finally. Now gotta get the 400 sb back from being rebuilt.

 

[vtblazer]

Not exactly sure of where you measured but I don't have any lower fender lips so I measured to the center of the wheel arch of the fender lip.

Rear measured at - 43 3/4"
Front measured at - 48 even

Tires are 39.5's, all spring lift.

 

[Canadian Trailblazer]

Uhhh, sorry to take so long to measure. I have stock wheel openings (at the top of the arch anyways) and I measure 48 1/4 inches at the back and 48 inches even on the front. As far as the 2 inch block goes I made mine out of 2" heavy wall square tubing. I drilled a 3/8 hole through it vertically, and welded a center bolt in the bottom hole. Then I enlarged the upper hole for the center bolt in the spring pack and capped the ends. I think its important to cap the ends for strength. I've been running the block for 4 years without problem.

 

[Yukon Jack]

Thanks for the measurements. Looks like if you keep the wheel well lips about equal the Blazers are pretty level.

Got a 2" block from a board member from another board and it should be here tomorrow. Now gotta get some free time to do some more work!

 

[Burt4x4]

Well YJ looks like i'm no help for ya on this one..hahaha I kept forgetting to mesure....oh well

 

[vtblazer]

Looks like if you keep the wheel well lips about equal the Blazers are pretty level.
quote]

I don't think that's the case YJ.

Check out the wheel openings against the body lines, the front fender goes alot higher into the body.

 

[Greg72]

Looks like if you keep the wheel well lips about equal the Blazers are pretty level.

I don't think that's the case YJ.

Check out the wheel openings against the body lines, the front fender goes alot higher into the body.

It's a good rule if you like the stinkbug stance.

 

[Yukon Jack]

Hmm, as it sits in the picture above the rear is about 1/2" higher than the front measured from that location and it doesn't have the stinkbug look. And, btw, that is what I'm trying to avoid, no saggy but for this K5.