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go ahead and laugh, but....

Wes Harden

Wes Harden

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Ok so I pulled the carpet in the rear of the suburban, there is some surface rust, I hit it with a needle scaler, metal is solid some pock marks, not a large area. I want to prime and paint it before I put down sound deadener Nico 80 ml stuff.
Question is what rattle can primer should I get. I have some premium Rustoleum left over from bumper.

How clean should it be this is a picture of the needle scaled part I will do some more, but what do you think?

20210327_165435.jpg
 
With that pitting I'd do some light sand blasting with one of those little portable hand held jobs, then a skim of filler, prime and paint.
 
It's going to be covered by sound deadener, I just want to make sure the rust stopped. I do have a hand held sand blaster
 
Gotta get rid of all the rust for it to stop rusting. Not sure what sound deadener your using but anything that can get moisture under it will keep the moisture there unless it can air out or it’s totally sealed.
 
You California boys really have it rough, lol! In all seriousness chassis saver would be a great application for what you have. I dont think it comes in rattle can though, really easy to spray in a 100$ touch up gun. Made for farmers back when they owned instead of leased
 
Ouch, looks like work. What media was that blasted with ? I could brush chassis saver on is not going to be seen afterwards. I'll look into it.
 
Wes Harden said:
Ouch, looks like work. What media was that blasted with ? I could brush chassis saver on is not going to be seen afterwards. I'll look into it.
Click to expand...
Good old #4 sand. you wont have to get sandy though, chassis saver doesn't mind surface rust, no primer involved. Brushes on great. Almost as hard as powdercoat. If you get it though, know that the cans it come in are trash. Really hard to reseal. I always buy the empty cans at lowes if I'm not going to use it all
 
Sandblasting is the only way to get all the rust out of those pitted areas...if any is left in them it will continue to rust and blister any topcoat and primer off in short order..
The rust converter treatment using a phosphoric acid based product like "Rust-Mort" by Morton or Duro "Extend" does work well to neutralize the rust and usually can be top coated without priming..
P-O-R 15 also works on pitted metal if you can't get it sandblasted ,it converts rust to primer ..stuff is very costly and kind of nasty to work with though..

My trucks all have rot like that rocker pictured above..
I got tired of being anal and spending days welding or brazing patches over the rotted sections,then another week sanding and applying bondo,only to see it bubble up a year later..

Now I just pop rivet a patch over the hole,slap on some waterproof fiberglass bondo like Mar-Glass,and call it done..don't even bother sanding it ,just slap paint over it and it seems to last longer than the patches I spent a week on making look "good"..

I suck at body work as far as blending bondo,painting,have no patience for it when it can be destroyed in seconds any more --I just want solid metal back where the holes were and I'm satisfied..
None of my trucks were ever destined to be show quality or even cruise night quality..just something I can drive and work without worrying about scratching it up,etc..
 
Another "vote" for POR15 that stuff goes on like a stain and dries like ceramic. You can see the paint bubble as it chemically reacts to the rusted metal. It works AWESOME = No more surface rust. Oh and yes it's nasty on the skin, take a few weeks to wear off...
 
So here is passenger side foot well. has a few holes I had wire brushed the crap outta it, got to hit on the underside.
My question is cut it out or fill each hole atm I have no patch panel. and I want to get this together next day or so.

20210411_193036_Film1.jpg

20210411_193053_Film1.jpg

20210411_193108_Film1.jpg
 
They sell Evercoat "Metal 2 Metal" body filler that is fiberglass with metallic powder in it that seems to resist bubbling up and peeling in short order ,its pretty costly though..

You may get away with using something like Mar-Glass reinforced bondo that is waterproof...

Regular "body filler" is just talcum powder with a fiberglass resin base and it'll absorb water and bubble up and come off in less than a year in many cases..the waterproof stuff takes a lot longer,but isn't "permanent" either..rust never sleeps,always wins..eventually it'll grow under the filler and make it come loose..
 
I can weld up the holes, or I can get patch panel. Not well schooled on rust repair never tackled what little we see here.
 
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