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GREEN LIGHT TO START RESTORATION

dra1967pool

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Joliet IL
Hey everyone! I'm restoring my K5 and I need some advice . I'm going with a new box frame and drivetrain, featuring a 5.9 Cummins engine, Allison 1000 transmission, Atlas 4 transfer case, Dana 60 4:10 gear ratio, and a rear 14 bolt full floating axle 4:10 gears ratio . Should I prioritize getting the drivetrain together before tackling bodywork and rust removal? Thanks for your time!Dave

20250427_144551.jpg
 
I am almost done doing rust repair on my truck, which I chose to do first, because at least for me and the goals for my build, it seems pointless to do anything else while there are still a bunch of holes rusted through on the body. I also wanted to get it out of the way since it's slow and not very fun, and then I would be able to do the fun parts of the build after that.

Not that my way is the right or wrong way, that's just my thought process that made sense for my build.

Other things you might consider when planning out your build might be:
  • Will you be able to or want to use the truck throughout the build process? Depending on where the rust is, you may have to substantially disassemble things to get access to fix it.
  • Along those lines, will the truck sit indoors or outdoors while being restored? You may need doors/tailgate/topper/windshield/etc off for decent chunks of time.
  • If you do the paint/body work before big mechanical stuff like frame/suspension/axles, you will need to be extremely careful with the new paint. I think I will do paint last on mine for this reason.
  • Frame swap may change the body panel alignment, so you may not want to have stuff painted before the frame swap in case you need to grind or weld to fix gaps/alignment.
  • You may want to close up wiring/screw/etc holes in the sheet metal before paint, but you may not know what holes you need and don't need before doing a lot of the mechanical or electrical work.
  • Tire size and suspension choices may mean trimming fenders, that's probably ideally done before painting if possible.

I hope some of this helps. I don't think there's a universally correct answer here, but more of a correct-for-your-build answer. Good luck!
 
Two questions. How much body work needs to be done? and do you have everything on hand to complete the chassis at one time?

might be worth it to jump back and forth between body work and chassis?
 
If you are going with a new frame, the body has to come off anyway. I'd probably recommend getting the stuff together to do the frame/power train while the body is off.

Having a K5 tub sitting on pallets and 4x4's in my yard awaiting tearing my running k5 down to swap in a boxed frame and this tub, it seems to me like it would be a lot easier to deal with most of the drivetrain stuff without the sheet metal in the way.

I also have to do some work on the sheet metal, any necessary is going to be much easier with the tub separated, particularly around the wheel wells and underside. (Not in the below configuration!)

Totally not sketchy lol
full
 
That's actually not bad compared to some crazy stuff I have done before
If you are going with a new frame, the body has to come off anyway. I'd probably recommend getting the stuff together to do the frame/power train while the body is off.

Having a K5 tub sitting on pallets and 4x4's in my yard awaiting tearing my running k5 down to swap in a boxed frame and this tub, it seems to me like it would be a lot easier to deal with most of the drivetrain stuff without the sheet metal in the way.

I also have to do some work on the sheet metal, any necessary is going to be much easier with the tub separated, particularly around the wheel wells and underside. (Not in the below configuration!)

Totally not sketchy lol
full
 
That's actually not bad compared to some crazy stuff I have done before

It's actually very stable. Am I gonna crawl under it and start banging on things? Hell no. Lol. I did run out of pallets, with a few more, it would have had a very solid footprint. Surprisingly easy to pry a corner of the body up with a long 4x4 and a fulcrum which made adjustment easy.

I was able to remove that tub and frame from a trailer with a floor jack, separate the frame (wasn't bolted together, but still a hassle with no ability to lift the body straight up in one motion), and with another set of hands get it into that position. It's a bit of a hassle, but for the OP, you can certainly come up with something that works for your situation for minimal cost.
 
It's actually very stable. Am I gonna crawl under it and start banging on things? Hell no. Lol. I did run out of pallets, with a few more, it would have had a very solid footprint. Surprisingly easy to pry a corner of the body up with a long 4x4 and a fulcrum which made adjustment easy.

I was able to remove that tub and frame from a trailer with a floor jack, separate the frame (wasn't bolted together, but still a hassle with no ability to lift the body straight up in one motion), and with another set of hands get it into that position. It's a bit of a hassle, but for the OP, you can certainly come up with something that works for your situation for minimal cost.
I have separated bodies from frame, beds from frame and utility beds as well, all with a few simple tools, some 4x4s and a few tall jack stands and an engine hoist.
And always in a tight spot too.
I wish I had more space and a big shop and a lift, but it's not in the cards and that will not stop me from having fun with cars.
And some of my jobs I definitely wouldn't go under, but yours here from what I can see, I would go under it
 
It was far easier to move that K5 body using a tractor with a loader. But I've done similar stuff to the pallets and 4x4 lumber to move large bodies on/off trailers before, when I wasn't spoiled by hydraulic assistance.

20250928_144318.jpg
 
It was far easier to move that K5 body using a tractor with a loader. But I've done similar stuff to the pallets and 4x4 lumber to move large bodies on/off trailers before, when I wasn't spoiled by hydraulic assistance.

View attachment 514789
It's interesting that you used a truck cab to describe your k5 body handling :pimp:
 
I am almost done doing rust repair on my truck, which I chose to do first, because at least for me and the goals for my build, it seems pointless to do anything else while there are still a bunch of holes rusted through on the body. I also wanted to get it out of the way since it's slow and not very fun, and then I would be able to do the fun parts of the build after that.

Not that my way is the right or wrong way, that's just my thought process that made sense for my build.

Other things you might consider when planning out your build might be:
  • Will you be able to or want to use the truck throughout the build process? Depending on where the rust is, you may have to substantially disassemble things to get access to fix it.
  • Along those lines, will the truck sit indoors or outdoors while being restored? You may need doors/tailgate/topper/windshield/etc off for decent chunks of time.
  • If you do the paint/body work before big mechanical stuff like frame/suspension/axles, you will need to be extremely careful with the new paint. I think I will do paint last on mine for this reason.
  • Frame swap may change the body panel alignment, so you may not want to have stuff painted before the frame swap in case you need to grind or weld to fix gaps/alignment.
  • You may want to close up wiring/screw/etc holes in the sheet metal before paint, but you may not know what holes you need and don't need before doing a lot of the mechanical or electrical work.
  • Tire size and suspension choices may mean trimming fenders, that's probably ideally done before painting if possible.

I hope some of this helps. I don't think there's a universally correct answer here, but more of a correct-for-your-build answer. Good luck!
It does thanks! Im going the new frame route, then the drive train then the body!
 
Two questions. How much body work needs to be done? and do you have everything on hand to complete the chassis at one time?

might be worth it to jump back and forth between body work and chassis?
That are very good questions. I don't know about the body work! My thinking is that I can just transfer the body after body work (not all the body work) right after it done.
 
If you are going with a new frame, the body has to come off anyway. I'd probably recommend getting the stuff together to do the frame/power train while the body is off.

Having a K5 tub sitting on pallets and 4x4's in my yard awaiting tearing my running k5 down to swap in a boxed frame and this tub, it seems to me like it would be a lot easier to deal with most of the drivetrain stuff without the sheet metal in the way.

I also have to do some work on the sheet metal, any necessary is going to be much easier with the tub separated, particularly around the wheel wells and underside. (Not in the below configuration!)

Totally not sketchy lol
full
I think that what im going to do!. Thanks for the advice!
 
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