What gears do you have?
Martin
Martin
CK5
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Griff's thread about nothing in particular.
- Thread starter The Griff
- Start date
I believe them to be 3:42, though I've never taken the cover off to actually check.
Check.
When was the last tune up?
What is the timing at?
Have you ever checked compression?
Martin
When was the last tune up?
What is the timing at?
Have you ever checked compression?
Martin
It got new plugs, wires, cap, rotor and coil about a year ago.
Not really sure on the timing, I don't have a timing light, The balancer has no marks on, and there is no sheetmetal tab to judge it off of anyway.
I tested the compression the same time I changed the cap, rotor, etc, and 7 cylinders were all between 165-180, but #2 was only 120.
Not really sure on the timing, I don't have a timing light, The balancer has no marks on, and there is no sheetmetal tab to judge it off of anyway.
I tested the compression the same time I changed the cap, rotor, etc, and 7 cylinders were all between 165-180, but #2 was only 120.
454Sub
5/8 ton status
Then your engine isn't a problem. It's your gearing my friend.
Really? I know 3:42 isn't good, but I figured with 31's it would be tolerable.
4:56 with 35's is better yet, but I'd go get a 14 bolt before I'd think about re-gearing the 10.
The factory cat and muffler are long gone, the muffler rusted off not long after I got it, and I cut the cat off of it about a year and a half ago. Right now it's got one of those $40 Thrush welded mufflers on it.
Then my toolbox must have a solid 150 HP.
It's a multiplication thing. You hafta start with some HP in order for the increase to work. Your toolbox is a serious waste of HP that you clearly need on the truck.
Really?It's a multiplication thing. You hafta start with some HP in order for the increase to work. Your toolbox is a serious waste of HP that you clearly need on the truck.
That bottle is FULL of HP...
beags86
Eastbound and Down
I once ran across a guy in a early 90s Ford truck, lifted, big tires, legitimately clean, rust free, nice looking truck.
Except.
He had cut two holes in the hood. (Admittedly he even did a nice job)
And he then ran two conical air filters out the holes. Into the throttle body.
( You had to take both air filters off to open the hood.)
Anyway.
He told me it was worth 150hp.
I asked him if they ran into a supercharger. He said no. Just a N/A truck. Worth 150hp!
Except.
He had cut two holes in the hood. (Admittedly he even did a nice job)
And he then ran two conical air filters out the holes. Into the throttle body.
( You had to take both air filters off to open the hood.)
Anyway.
He told me it was worth 150hp.
I asked him if they ran into a supercharger. He said no. Just a N/A truck. Worth 150hp!
Lol, oh my...
454Sub
5/8 ton status
4.10 and 33 is basically the same gearing as 4.56 and 35. It makes a radical difference. Originally mine was 4.10 and 39.5s and the original TBI 350. Once I installed 5.13s it became a totally different animal. Could brake torque the Boggers. Then I installed a 2000 454 in it. Also helped. But not near as much as the gears did.
My 95 half ton Dodge has a stock 360 with 3:73's and 35x12.50 Toyo M/T's, And it's never felt like it was hurting for power, could break the tires loose by accident if you weren't careful.
Also, I may be able to get the 3:73 full float 14 from the same Suburban I got everything else from so far, seeing as how the Suburban has changed hands again.
Also, I may be able to get the 3:73 full float 14 from the same Suburban I got everything else from so far, seeing as how the Suburban has changed hands again.
454Sub
5/8 ton status
I wouldn't waste time with a 3.73 geared axle. But that's me. I have a full floater housing with no carrier or axle shafts sitting in my driveway. I have a 4.56+ carrier to go with it too as I need a 4.10- carrier for my new 5.38s. Parts for these are fairly common and it's an easy axle to setup even with HF tools.
