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grrr why won't you start?????

You sure the battery isn't running low? Sounds like you've been cranking it for some time now. Might try jumping it to see if it helps.
 
76k5grrl said:
ok... here's my concern now. did plugs and wires 4 days before this problem. it ran and drove beautifully after that... new rotor, new coil today. still no dice.... apparently I have a much bigger problem here
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Ahh, don't panic yet. Even though its not a Ford, or even a Jeep, we can get it going.....:D

First thing now is to check for spark. If its got the spark module in the distributor, then its suspect.
But pull a plug wire and check for a hot blue spark before changing the module.

If no spark, then its module time.

I think we have ruled out fuel, but you can always take the air cleaner cover off, and look down the throat while working the throttle with your hand.

You should see gas squirt in when you do.
But, check the spark first.
 
OK, cross posting........

Sound like the module now. Somewhere here there is a procedure to check the voltage going to the distributor to isolate it to the module, but I don't know where right now.

The cranking does sound normal right? If its sounds weird, you may have a timing chain problem, but I doubt it, since it would sound strange when cranking.

You could also pop off the distributor cap and bump the starter to make sure the rotor is turning and the drive gear pin is not sheered.

But I'm leaning towards module right now....
 
meanboyjr said:
Yes. Mine has them.

IIRC, the feds mandated the 3-point lap and shoulder belt in '73.
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blazinzuk said:
I think it was 78 in trucks. I had a 73 and a 75 and neither had 3 points.
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Yeah, the '73 seatbelt law was for passenger cars. I'm not quite sure when they did the same for trucks, but my '76 and my buddy's '77 both have the 3-point lap/shoulder belts. Could it be that this was an option in those years before it was federally mandated?
 
easiest way to check for proper spark is to pull a plug, put the plug wire back on, hold the plug against a good ground (engine block/head) and crank the engine. you can see if you have a solid blue/white spark at the plug itself. be careful though, HEI can give quite a kick.... i know from experience. rubber gloves arent a bad idea here.
 
When you replace your ignition module, make sure you put the thermal paste in between the module and the distributor base. Nothing kills an ignition module faster than heat or a poor ground. I personally used to go to my local computer store and bought heat sink compound for a processor chip heat sink to use instead of the cruddy goop the parts store gives you with a new module. Just cheap insurance.
 
Most times when a frustrating problem like this happens it ends up being the ignition module like has been said. It is fairly common ( at least it seems to me) for them to go out after a tuneup.

Replace ignition module and report back
 
My truck did something similar this year after a tune up (new plugs, wires, and distributor) and it ended up being the coil. Just a thought.
 
76k5grrl said:
I have no spark.......
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Look for yellow parts in the ignition system. Yellow parts are typically made by Accel, so a yellow coil, or module would probably be dead.

If you changed the cap and rotor during your tune-up, check them to make sure there wasn't a simple assembly error and something has come loose. Make sure the carbon button is in place with nothing melted around it.
 
Blue85 said:
Look for yellow parts in the ignition system. Yellow parts are typically made by Accel, so a yellow coil, or module would probably be dead.

If you changed the cap and rotor during your tune-up, check them to make sure there wasn't a simple assembly error and something has come loose. Make sure the carbon button is in place with nothing melted around it.
Click to expand...

Along with that metal ground strap that needs to be transferred from the old cap to the new one.

To answer some of your frustration about carbs and off road vehicles and angles. Carbs are known for being tempermental on steep inclines/declines/sidehills. They can make an engine spit, sputter, stall, hard start, no start, etc. It's just a fact of carb life, you'll get used to it... or swap it out for fuel injection. I bet you'll never park it on an incline again.:whistle: Carbs are designed to work within certain parameters. As off roaders we usually put them to use in situations well beyond what they were designed to work in. Add 30 years of age to that unit and that opens it up to even more failure options.

Keep at it, I bet the problem is something easy.
 
still working.....

had it towed across town to my apartment complex.. it was kind of a debate:just tow it to a mechanic or keep working it myself... this is part of all cars I cannot really conceptual: electricity.... but since I don't technically "need" it (my other ride is a cannondale:)) I decided to keep working on it myself.

I got really excited yesterday when I found a bad fuse... how funny would that be, and a lesson my ex-husband, an aircraft mechanic taught me (but apparently not well enough)... always check the "stupid" stuff first before you go chasing unicorns... but alas, I guess that fuse is to nothing because replacing it did nothing. oh well.

Will replace ignition module today.

found a stray black wire that's near the distributor that is in pretty rough shape. I don't remember but one stray when I was changing plugs so I'm wondering where it goes. time to buckle down and accept I need to understand wiring :((((( boooo.......

thanks for all the help, say a little prayer for me:)
 
tried to get a pic, my phone was dying. in other awesome news, my negative battery cable just randomly split. yay. replaced. but now I'm finding out my battery is dead. I literally just had it charged at the parts store yesterday. cranked engine only twice.... its giving me a headache
 
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