xCaliK5x
1/2 ton status
United rentals rents truck AND trailer? how much does that cost? I have been thinking if I end up keeping my K5 I will need a truck as a tow vehicle. Driving it long distance would be a PIA.
CK5
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Guys with trailers..how far forward?..Pics added
- Thread starter MTBLAZER89
- Start date
United rentals rents truck AND trailer? how much does that cost? I have been thinking if I end up keeping my K5 I will need a truck as a tow vehicle. Driving it long distance would be a PIA.
The F250 is my work truck that I drive 24/7. They even pay for ALL my gas whether I am at work or I drive it cross country for personal use. It's a company policy / IRS tax thing. The trailer cost me about $25/day but usually only get charged for one day if I have it from like a Thurs-Monday. It is a bit of a job perk I suppose.
Edit: Oh yeah. The truck would be an f250 XL model and that trailer in the pic or one similar for about $150/day.
Slapperbar
Retired Navy NDT Examiner
I have to agree with the load dist. setup. Mine towed tile a dream thru the Blue-ridge mountains from Charleston, S.C. up 77 to Alliance, Ohio. The big box on the front is my Fender Mender 250 welder and the tractor is a 1968 Simplicity Yeoman 616. The S-10 is my little drag toy.
Sorry it's so small, I can't find the full size pic.
No, I didn't have the bars on yet.
Sorry it's so small, I can't find the full size pic.
No, I didn't have the bars on yet.
If your towing over 5000lb. more than 25 miles or so, I would seriously use an equalizing hitch, with the 1000# bars, and a sway control...a simple sliding bar/clamp type works very well. Open trailers aren't to bad for sway as long as your load is 10-15% tongue weighted, but a closed trailer can be a nightmare without the proper equipment. Most trailers are built to put 15-20% bias toward the tongue. Notice the axle setback.
I load mine the following way....
#1. Measure tow truck rear bumper height @ normal ride height unloaded....
lets say 22"
#2. Set ball height so trailer is about 1" higher than level (trailer still not hitched up to
tow vehicle)
#3. Hook up trailer, hook up equalizing bars so they are level or slightly pulled up at the
rear of the bar (chain link end).
#4. Load vehicle and all additional items on trailer, so that the rear bumper height --
(Previously 22") is now about 1"-1-1/2" lower than before. Any more than that, and the front axle steering or weight could be affected negatively.
This should put the trailer at an even level, which is essential for equal axle weight distribution, and will keep the tongue weight at the desired 10-20%.
And don't forget to use tiedown straps that are rated (for total of all straps) 4X the weight of the vehicle.
I load mine the following way....
#1. Measure tow truck rear bumper height @ normal ride height unloaded....
lets say 22"
#2. Set ball height so trailer is about 1" higher than level (trailer still not hitched up to
tow vehicle)
#3. Hook up trailer, hook up equalizing bars so they are level or slightly pulled up at the
rear of the bar (chain link end).
#4. Load vehicle and all additional items on trailer, so that the rear bumper height --
(Previously 22") is now about 1"-1-1/2" lower than before. Any more than that, and the front axle steering or weight could be affected negatively.
This should put the trailer at an even level, which is essential for equal axle weight distribution, and will keep the tongue weight at the desired 10-20%.
And don't forget to use tiedown straps that are rated (for total of all straps) 4X the weight of the vehicle.
Slapperbar
Retired Navy NDT Examiner
Just to add, tie down to the frame for a better ride. When you tie down just the axles the "load" will bounce and raise hell with you. I use frame hooks ("T" hooks).
They go in the oval slot in the frame for tie down.
http://www.truckntow.com/pc-11282-147196-t-hook.aspx
They go in the oval slot in the frame for tie down.
http://www.truckntow.com/pc-11282-147196-t-hook.aspx
I prefer to tie down to the axles. I have pretty soft suspension, and worry about it bouncing and getting loose and coming unhooked during a good bounce.
I did notice the suspension movement with it tied down to the axles, but nothing I worried about. I thought if anything I would add a tie down chain front and rear to prevent that on long hauls.
I did notice the suspension movement with it tied down to the axles, but nothing I worried about. I thought if anything I would add a tie down chain front and rear to prevent that on long hauls.
Slapperbar
Retired Navy NDT Examiner
I load the suspension. No more boing.
use your winch if you wanna suck down the front
thats what i do as well.in a X.ive had zero problems and it rides a whole lot better
not as a tie down just a suck down.use chains as well.shoot loop it to your axle if you really wanna suck it down.im not worried about damaging a 8274 cause they are totally rebuildable
