CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

H1 beadlocks won't hold air.

WinslowS

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jun 1, 2006
Posts
265
Reaction score
0
Location
Spartanburg, SC
H1 12 bolt recentered beadlocks, use the red/orange oring. Cut down magnesium runflats and 37 radial goodyear h1 tires.

Leaking extremely fast between the two rim pieces

The wheel held air fine for months, I got a new set of tires so I went to put the first one on, torqued everything to spec and it leaked like a sieve, realized the o-ring had expanded(WD40
shaking.gif
), broke it down and cut o-ring down to correct length and superglued. The rims still leaked, but not as bad, added rtv around the leaking areas, still leaked, went and bought brand new o-rings from a military hummer specialty place, torqued everything down to 125 lbft again. Still leaking, worse than ever now, it won't hold any pressure for any amount of time, leaking around one half of the rim. Breaker bared everything even tighter, impacted them till my impact wouldn't go anymore, still won't hold any air for any amount of time.
eek.gif


Any ideas?
 
Are you sure it is leaking around the o-ring and that there is no holes from when the centers were welded in? If not maybe they got warped from the welding of the centers. I had a set that would not stop leaking I put RTV where the O-ring goes and glued them together....
 
did you grease the oring so it doesnt get crimped or pinched? that could cause a leak. i would think the super glue could definatley make it leak.
 
I greased everything good with non gasket affecting grease, and the wheels worked fine with the old tires. I just changed tires, and no holding air now.
 
What were the old and new tires? I've read about various tires having thicker beads preventing the wheel parts from seating all the way. Granted everything I read about this proved to be untrue (based on personal experience) but it sounds reasonable.
 
old were the 36 bias goodyears, new are 37 inch radial goodyears, both tires meant for these rims
 
old were the 36 bias goodyears, new are 37 inch radial goodyears, both tires meant for these rims


Weren't the 37 introduced with the second gen military beadlocks? I'm not sure what that does when using the newer tire on the older rims. I'd have to stop by the motorpool and ask if there were issues.
 
I'm using the 12 bolt rims. Not the older 8 bolt. I am using cut down magnesium run flats. The weird thing is that the rim is drawn all the way together with a new o-ring and still leaking so fast it won't hold any air at all for any period of time.
 
), , went and bought brand new o-rings from a military hummer specialty place, torqued everything down to 125 lbft again.
Any ideas?

There were several types of -rings available. If you got one that was not for your style rim it will leak as stated. You need to find the propper NSN for the style rim you have and make sure that is what you are piutting in there.

So you know where my knowledge comes from, I spent the enlisted portion of my mil career as a wheeled vehicle mechanic/supervisor and have dealt with the 8 bolt rims that use one styleo-ring, and the 2 different style 12 botls that use two different style o-rings.

You may have jsut recieved the wrong style.
 
My 12 bolts had a slow leak so I through some rtv on the o rings and it stopped the leak

RTV or greese is a quick fix. The o-ring is already damaged in some way or installed improperly. I don't know how many I had to take apart and put back together because the rim just would not hold air.

I know with the resources I had it made it easier for me to just grab another o-ring than you guys.
 
RTV or greese is a quick fix. The o-ring is already damaged in some way or installed improperly. I don't know how many I had to take apart and put back together because the rim just would not hold air.

I know with the resources I had it made it easier for me to just grab another o-ring than you guys.

Even with the new o-rings I put in they still leaked slowly. I took them apart a few times trying to get the ring to sit right but had no luck (its a pain in the ass to pull those things apart without a impact). With the RTV they have been holding strong for over a year now
 
Weren't the 37 introduced with the second gen military beadlocks? I'm not sure what that does when using the newer tire on the older rims. I'd have to stop by the motorpool and ask if there were issues.

I have done both with no issues. Even seen BFG Bajas on them and now Goodyear MTRs come on them.
 
RTVed the phuck out of them, new oring(the last one didn't seat correctly and got chewed up??). Made sure the o-ring was stuck in the groove with the RTV. Cranked it down most of the way, let the RTV dry for 2 hours, and finished torqing.

Stripped three studs, still leaking like a sieve. Are some of the rims just bad?? This one held air last time but I am at a loss.
 
With all these o-rings getting damaged, are you sure you have the correct ones?

Fyi, I had 2 wheels with rust pitting in the o-ring grooves that consistantly prevented them from sealing (on different sets of tires). I got a caulk gun and some silicone sealant for windows that stayed flexible and put it on the wheels. I installed the o-rings and then ran a thin bead on both wheel halves, assembled and torqued them, then let them dry for a couple of days before airing them up.
 
The O-ring fits down in the grooves perfectly, a portion somehow came out last time and was up against the studs for about a 1/4 of the wheel. I RTVed it into the groove this time. The weirdest part about the whole thing is that the wheels held air fine before. I am going to redo them next day I have off work, I plan on torquing them down before the RTV dries next time. This time I ran the outter half down most of the way, then let them sit for 2 hours(the RTV claimed to set in 1 hour), then torqued them all the way. The pattern made by the RTV above the O-ring was a sort of loop pattern, I wonder if there were small gaps caused by this pattern being the one the RTV dried in?? I am going to try to use more RTV and torque it down completely next time so the wet RTV can conform to any irregular surfaces.
 
then let them dry for a couple of days before airing them up.


we have a winner. If you are using RTV, glue, or caulk to help seal the rim halves, you want to let it cure. If you try to air up before that, you can blow bubbles, or holes through the sealant in places, but not others, creating a leak.

at least thats my guess. Ive got a set of the H1 beadlocks, but havent played with them yet.
 
The O-ring fits down in the grooves perfectly, a portion somehow came out last time and was up against the studs for about a 1/4 of the wheel. I RTVed it into the groove this time. The weirdest part about the whole thing is that the wheels held air fine before. I am going to redo them next day I have off work, I plan on torquing them down before the RTV dries next time. This time I ran the outter half down most of the way, then let them sit for 2 hours(the RTV claimed to set in 1 hour), then torqued them all the way. The pattern made by the RTV above the O-ring was a sort of loop pattern, I wonder if there were small gaps caused by this pattern being the one the RTV dried in?? I am going to try to use more RTV and torque it down completely next time so the wet RTV can conform to any irregular surfaces.
Just wondering if you ever gotem to hold air? purchasing a set of hummer wheels soon and lookin to see what all problems i mite run into.
 
Post another "For Sale" item in this forum and you're getting a vacation from this site....

:mad: Read the rules! :mad:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Top Bottom