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Hammer's K5 rebirth!

Why didn't you weld the nut to the added steel, instead of welding the nut to the bolt? I guess if you don't ever plan on taking the seatbelt out........your good!
 
Bolt

Why didn't you weld the nut to the added steel, instead of welding the nut to the bolt? I guess if you don't ever plan on taking the seatbelt out........your good!

I really didn't think of it. I wanted something permanent and I've never had good like welding fasteners.
 
Light day

I worked on the passenger floor ( more rot) and prepared the area for replacement steel. I also removed the out of date and worn Bull bar. It added character to my K5 but I had plans. Four or five years ago I bought a cow catcher from a CK5 member. It had sat in my family's garage all that time. I just never got around to cleaning it up and installing it. Today was the day. After removing some surface rust and cobwebs I removed the Bull bar. Note I HATE Carriage Bolts, they never remove easy, they are always rusted solid. These were no different, I guess they are twenty plus years old.

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Fix overdue

Three years ago I ordered the rubber replacement strips for my K5 roof. Three years the kit sat in my house and in the back of the K5 waiting... Waiting for me to man up and fix the leaky original seal. Well this weekend the planets lined up and I got it done.

Of course it was a ballbuster like every other fix on this project. The two pins in the rear (the second to the last) only spun, nothing I did would allow me to unscrew the nuts. So I cut them off. I asked the brotherhood in the past how much the fiberglass topper weighed, I never got a hard number. Fortunately I was able to enlist two friends to help me out. It wasn't too heavy but there is little to hold onto. Very awkward.

In the end I think it went well. No unseen rust spots, the old weatherstripping came out without much headache. And most of all the top is back on. I do wish I had the money to get a soft top and a pickup tailgate, combined they must weigh close to four hundred pounds. That would be nice fuel savings.

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Topper

I also made a run to Pep Boys for more sealant adhesive. In the parking lot I saw a 1969 Mustang, I talked to the owner and he's had it since 1983. He drives it almost daily and it was in pretty good condition. I couldn't get my Iphone to video him leaving (Damn OS7).

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Been doing a great job on your rust repair, subscribing for future use when I do my floor! Might be coming for help on the tail pan once I get to it.
 
November

I worked on the K5 yesterday. Probably one of the last nice days before the winter hits. I bought a set of Coverking seat covers to cover the stock red seats. Also going in was a floor mat from LMC. Both of which is an attempt to change the dated look of the interior. (I've always hated the faded red look) The Coverking seat covers are great, easy to install now fab work needed. The only drawback is for some reason Coverking didn't put a back on the bench seat cover like the front seats. It just makes the covers look cheap and lame. The LMC floor mat was a challenge. I should have installed it when it was warmer, the 40- 45 degree NJ weather doesn't make installing, and cutting easy.

Also I got into a bad situation. At the end of day I wanted to start the K5, since it had been sitting for a couple of days. I cranked it and got nothing... no lights or sounds. I checked the battery connections and still nothing. Which is weird, since I had power to lower and raise the back window. I tried to jump it using my Ram, but again nothing. I'm not knowledgeable with electrical but I cut the wires for the dome light and speaker wires since they were not needed or attached to anything. So I thought the wires (since I left them uncapped) might have drained the battery. (it had been a couple of days since I cut them) Frustrated I drove out and bought a new battery, I then capped the wires and bound them with electrical tape. Initially the new battery did not crank the truck. I had no power at all. I took a wire brush to the connectors and remembered that I might have hit a switch located under the dash when I was reinstalling the seats. I thought I heard it click when I was struggling with the driver's seat. Since I never had touched the switch I had no idea if it worked. I hit it and nothing changed, no power. Baffled I almost gave up. I went back and hit the door locks, which worked??? WTF, I then cranked the truck and she started like nothing had happened. WTF????Still confused I let her run for fifteen minutes and called it a night. I have no clue.

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A nice day in December

I tried to tackle the problem Tailgate today. Its been the nicest day in about three weeks. I ordered what I thought I needed weeks ago and tore down the tailgate today. I have big hands and was not looking forward to reaching into the tailgate itself. Surprisingly it was way easier than I thought. After removing the glass, guides and other OEM hardware I was stunned that the gate worked at all. Almost 25 years of weather and abuse nearly destroyed most of the parts in the the gate. I wasn't able to complete the swap out because I failed to pick up white grease and gasket epoxy. Tomorrow I should be able to finish her off and maybe I will have a fully working tailgate.


Oh by the way does anyone know just what is the piece in the last picture is? And what does it do?

http://youtu.be/mO8XDPAP-vk

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the last picture looks like the piece that holds the tailgate assist springs, they push against the bolt on the frame rail to make the tailgate almost neutral balanced, instead of the heavy bastard it is. also I don't know if the window channels are available aftermarket, but when I did mine, vent window or door channel, can't remember which, make good parts doners if you have a welder
 
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