Hard metal brake line replacement?

[BoondocK5]

Brake lines, the hard metal ones.
Question: replace all of them, or, keep using them until they go bad.
This is my 73 K10 I'm talking about. All the old brake lines held fluid and seemed to work, last time I drove it. 7 years ago.
Do I keep using them, replacing them as needed, or just bite the bullet and replace them all as a kit?
Consensus?

 

[rampage]

Would need to see pics. If they’re rusty then replace. Anything that you must ask questions about, replace. Cheap insurance.

 

[wazzabie]

Make sure your emergency brake is working

 

[wazzabie]

How difficult is it to replace the hard metal brake lines? To gain access what needs to be removed?

 

[BoondocK5]

Make sure your emergency brake is working

No emergency brake yet

 

[BoondocK5]

How difficult is it to replace the hard metal brake lines? To gain access what needs to be removed?

I've never replaced an entire set
Just adequate repairs or replaced when necessary.
Judging by placement of that proportioning valve, it's probably a bear of a job. We shall see

 

[Wes Harden]

I thought once I was going to bleed my proportioning valve. Got down there and put a wrench on a nut, nope wouldn't budge. Flushed it out at the wheel bleeds.

 

[Wes Harden]

This weekend


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[wazzabie]

I've never replaced an entire set
Just adequate repairs or replaced when necessary.
Judging by placement of that proportioning valve, it's probably a bear of a job. We shall see

I replaced the entire fuel line using inline tube stainless steel lines. I had the gas tank removed so it was easy access for the most part. Good thing I replaced my fuel lines as they were rusting inside out.

I also have some brake lines from inline tube that I intend to replace. I suspect this will be a more difficult job. I don't want to cut the lines to make it easier for the install. On the assembly line I suspect the brake lines were installed on the frame when the engine was out. I hope I don't need to pull the engine to install the lines.

 

[bix]

This weekend

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^^^^^^^

Ive used inline tube for stainless brake lines on my old k5, and on my c10 now. Their kits are great, marked where to unbend and give you peace of mind for a looong time.
I second Wes's suggestion even without 20% off. Better to change them when you want to than when you dont want too, but have too.

 

[BoondocK5]

This weekend

View attachment 476211
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Thanks Wes, those are the best deals online. Quality parts, reasonable prices. With the holiday discount it's hard to turn down. Might even do the front and rear DISC proportioning valve.

 

[skunked]

I installed new brake lines from inline tube on my K10 chassis before I installed the body. Based on my experience with the install I would expect the front brake lines that run through the engine crossmember (passenger side) would be the most difficult with the front clip on.

 

[BoondocK5]

I installed new brake lines from inline tube on my K10 chassis before I installed the body. Based on my experience with the install I would expect the front brake lines that run through the engine crossmember (passenger side) would be the most difficult with the front clip on.

I'm sure like everything else that has to get past the fatass 8.1, I'll be making up words about how bad it sucks.

 

[wazzabie]

^^^^^^^

Ive used inline tube for stainless brake lines on my old k5, and on my c10 now. Their kits are great, marked where to unbend and give you peace of mind for a looong time.
I second Wes's suggestion even without 20% off. Better to change them when you want to than when you dont want too, but have too.

Did you need to remove any parts to gain access to replace the brake lines?

 

[bix]

On my k5 if i dont think i did, But on the c10 i had the cab and bed off. The front crossmember area was the only crappy area IIRC.

 

[Chickntrk]

The line going into the top of the proportioning valve (right front if I recall correctly) was a biotch for me. Barely enough room to fingertip the nut. The rest were pretty easy.

 

[BoondocK5]

I think "if" I do this, I'm going to replace all of it. Including the proportioning valve. With a disc/disc unit. Because that's what I have.
I'll use some temporary "long bolts" to mount up the proportioning valve, leaving the bolts very loose. That way I can move it around while starting all the lines.
I know space will be tight. As I installed a big bolt in the crossmember to support winch install. That bolt went very close to a couple of the brake lines, right in between them just beside the proportioning valve.
It's gonna suck...

 

[BC98]

I have the Inline Tube kit also but haven't installed it. My brake lines were solid when I started tearing the Jimmy down and I was just going to pull them off and reuse them but very of the connections would budge so I just cut them out and planned on replacing them anyway.

I already have the front clip off and MIGHT be pulling the body off the frame to do some clean up work on the underbody. I plan on installing most of it on the frame without the body in the way.

 

[1-ton]

I cannot trust anything to fit my weird @SS 1991 V3500 listed on any square body restoration web site. Here in Vegas there is a hydraulic hose shop that will make a new steel brake line for you if you bring in the old one to match it up.

 

[shady]

I always get the coated lines in straight sections from O'Reilly's and just bend my own. Super cheap, super easy. Make it look however you want, and run them where you need them to go.
They bend by hand, no bender needed. In fact, due to the coating, a bender will kink them. By hand they don't though. I have some of them I did on my buddies mom's car close to 15 years ago that still look new.