Hardware for Harbor Freight Engine Stand and Hoist

[The Butcher]

I bought a 2 ton Engine Stand and 2 Ton foldable shop crane from HF since I had a 25% off coupon. Seem to be decent for the price. I haven't picked anything up yet though...

Anyone know what bolts/washers I need to bolt a big block to the engine stand? The mounts have long pieces of small diameter pipe on them (like 2"), so I need a bolt that will go through there and thread deep enough into motor.

Also, are the accessory brackets strong enough to lift the motor from for the front mount? That power steering pump bracket is really easy to get to, but if those aren't strong enough I won't use them. Thanks.

 

[obijuank5]

They are 3/8" coarse thread bolts for the bellhousing. Id say get some 3" bolts and a handful of washers. I have lifted from the intake to head bolts before. worked ok. I just made sure I had enough thread engagement.

 

[Hoss7979]

You could also just lift it from the intake using the plate. Or if ya had a buddy you could always make one....

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wmr-w41034

 

[diesel4me]

If the engine lacks the factory lift brackets I always use a 3/8" bolt screwed into the heads,in the front & rear..long enough to bolt a thick chain to it..use a fender washer too,so the chain wont pull off the bolt..

I would think the P/S bracket will bend some,its probably strong enough to lift the engine,but why risk tweaking it ?..

I like those carb plates to hook the chain too,but I'm always leery of an aluminum intake with only four 5/16" bolts holding up 800 lbs worth of engine & tranny..but I have never seen one fail --yet!..
That is the best "balanced" spot to pull from..

At the junkyard we often hooked the chain to anything that looked strong enough to lift out the engine--even the water pump !..but that was on engines we didn't care much about,just wanted to "rip 'em out"..we used one of those twisted nylon tow ropes with two hooks often to pull engines out with the loader,wrapped it right around the whole engine in a choker hold manner..worked surprisingly well ,did very little if any damage..

 

[dremu]

Second vote for hoisting via the intake. That plate is prolly at your local parts house too (O'Reillys carries them, I know, so Vatozone and Napa should as well.) Then you can just bolt the stand to the front and be done.

-- A

 

[sweetk30]

kirt @ diy4x has engine lift plates for the carb pad also . if you wana support a vendor here . I have one and its beefy .

I also modified mine to take the 3 bolt tbi intake pattern . . . . have not dropped one yet with 3 bolts on tbi intake . swapped a few with it .

 

[dyeager535]

As an FYI, depending on what you are going to use the stand for, this style is awesome: http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/80059/10002/-1

Summit, among others I'm sure, sell the exact same thing, so might be able to get a better price. Mine rolls very well, which I've not found to be true of others.

I used 3/8" ready rod cut to length, and welded a nut to the backside so I could use a socket on it to hold the engine to the stand.

 

[The Butcher]

Thanks for all the ideas. I'm not going to mess with pulling the carb to put the lifting plate on, but I do like that idea. I found some anchor points in the heads on the front PS and the rear DS that seem to be plenty stout. I purchased the load leveler from HF as well and it comes with some decent lengths of chain and nice adjustable spreader bar that lets you lift without the chain getting pulled front/back or side/side.

For the stand I had some 4" long 3/8 bolts and some 2" long 3/8 bolts on hand. One is too long, the other too short. I think 3 to 3-1/2" long is going to be just about right by the time I stack some washers on it. Now I just have to figure out why the engine mount bolts are bound up and don't want to slide out.

 

[diesel4me]

You may have to lift up or let off tension on the hoist to get the bolts to "float" and come out...they could get rusted into the motor mount sleeve,but its not common..the oem bolts had a shoulder sometimes,that is a tight fit into the engine mount bracket,it might need a little coaxing with a punch and hammer..

When I put a parts 6.2 on my engine stand.and other engines like a 350 and 454, I just used 3/8" grade 5 bolts I had lying around that were about 3/4" too long,I just stacked a few lug nuts as spacers to take the slack up..

The stand is one of those cheap 39.95 specials that originally had only 3 wheels,tricycle style..

I added some tubing and two caster up front ,it was just too unstable on 3 wheels when rolling it around..
I bought two of them at flea markets for about 20 bucks each,used maybe once..

I'm not impressed with the welds holding the part that rotates on the stand that bolts to the engine,it has maybe 3 tack welds about 3/8" long holding the engine plate to the "ring" that goes onto the stand's pipe..
But the old ingot 6.2 has been on it at least 3 years now,and it hasn't dropped to the floor --yet..
I plan to run more beads with my arc welder next time there isn't an engine mounted on it..