Having trouble adjusting my ball

[Richcz28]

Fixed that...

I haven't heard of a fishscale. Is this something I should definitely be checking for safety?

 

[496truck]

If it's too tight it will wear out steering components quickly. I didn't use, nor do I own, a fish scale. I did it by feel. If it felt too tight then I made an adjustment.

Started by torquing the lower BJ.
Then started tightening the upper adjuster nut, the 4 prong dealy.
While tightening that I would push/pull on the knuckle arm turning it back/forth.
Is there a spec on the adjuster nut? 20 lbs maybe? I don't remember.
One knuckle I got to spec and it turned fine. Torqued the upper BJ.
The other side I couldn't get to spec without it binding while turning.
So I stopped tightening the adjuster while the knuckle still turned without binding and torqued the upper BJ.

That's where I left it and it has been on plenty of road trips and wheeling trips without an issue.

 

[Richcz28]

http://www.chuckschevytruckpages.com/chevy_truck_4wd_front_axle_ball_joint_replacement.html

I found this link on here somewhere and those are the specs I have been using.

 

[Richcz28]

I should have noticed this before and now I really feel like a dunce. Finally got my truck all ready to drive and went to grease everything. Discovered not only can I not grease the ball joint, but the front shaft can't spin as it hits the grease fitting. Super, looks like my front end is coming back apart.

 

[1BEATK5]

Really common. The upper ball joint should have came with a grease zero and a plug. You put the zerk in, grease the joint, then insert the plug to have enough Clarence for the axles shaft.

 

[Richcz28]

Ok, I got them pressed in at a shop so I only got the balljoints back in the knuckle. I guess I'll stop by and ask them for that part. Thanks

 

[Blue85]

You have to tear it down far enough to pull the axleshaft, then put it back after you grease the upper joint. Somebody makes a BJ with a side zerk that clears the axleshaft, but I can't remember who. This is a hassle that usually results in the upper joint not getting properly lubed very often. I am guilty of sometimes sneaking a grease needle under the seal to just top it off instead. I like installing the blank zerk on both upper and lower joints. They just seem so vulnerable down there and it's pretty easy to swap a zerk back in when you want to lube them. After you've gone through a couple sets of joints, you have extras anyway. I don't know where to buy them.

 

[Richcz28]

Yea if anyone has a part number or source for a 90 degree fitting that clears that would be awesome. I have some 90s but they are big and I don't think they would work.

 

[Fordum]

I think these will work better than the plug and fitting method. With one of these installed, and the right grease gun adapter, you just turn the axle to get the most room and grease it normally.

http://www.saeproducts.com/flush-grease-fitting-ah18f.html

Here are other sizes.

http://www.saeproducts.com/flush-grease-fittings.html

And the grease gun adapters.

http://www.saeproducts.com/grease-fitting-coupler.html

 

[Richcz28]

Wow, thanks! I might have to put together a grease gun wish list on that site.

 

[rampage]

Somebody makes a BJ with a side zerk that clears the axleshaft, but I can't remember who.

It's made by Moog, their problem solver line.
http://www.fme-cat.com/PartDetailWi...lu=1987 CHEVROLET BLAZER&t=&vin=#.UYKkLmS9LTo

 

[496truck]

Those flush grease fittings won't work, I've tried that. You just can not get the end of the grease gun hose in that small space.

And they don't make a 90* zerk that will fit in there.

Take it apart, grease it, plug it or put in a flat fitting, reassemble. Those flat fittings should be available at a local parts store.

This is the Moog upper I just swapped out in my truck. The cheapo ones only lasted a year.

For future reference Moog part #K8194T upper and K8195T lower.