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HELP!!! Dangerous brake problem needs resolved TONITE. (MONDAY)

colbystephens

colbystephens

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ok, so the rain just started here (actually, we're on flood watch) and it's the first time i've driven my rig in the rain.

background.

while i'm pretty sure the concept of the e-brake is pretty easy, and i think i understand it, maybe i need an explanation about how the e-brake works. when i built my rig, i took the e-brake line which goes from the line which comes off of the pedal to the lines which come off of the drums on the 14bff - so, essentially it's the middle section which is missing. anyway, i have that in my garage, but i took the hangars for this piece off of my rig too, and can't remember how it goes back.

anyway, here's the story. i think that the e-brake on my passenger side drum is slightly engaged b/c as i hit the brakes in neutral (i have an sm465), it locks up real easy. i try to leave it in gear as long as possible, to force the wheel to spin as i'm braking, and while this helps, being that i'm not lockered out back the brake still locks up, and any force on turning the wheels is all directed to the driver side wheel.

so, two real questions:

  1. how do i make sure that my e-brakes are fully DISengaged, without the lines being hooked up to the pedal.
  2. anyone have a diagram or good explanation of how the cables run so i can hook this sh*t back up?
 
There should be springs in inside the drums which pull the shoes in. Might be that the adjuster in that side is adjusted too far out... should be no or very slight drag ... like turn the adjuster until you can feel it, then back it off.

The spring on top of the adjuster would keep the shoes from dragging, so as long as the parking brake cable is loose, that's not your problem.

My thoughts, anyway.

-- A
 
maybe your wheel cylinder is leaking and contaminated the shoes, causing the wheel to "lock"??
 
dremu said:
There should be springs in inside the drums which pull the shoes in. Might be that the adjuster in that side is adjusted too far out... should be no or very slight drag ... like turn the adjuster until you can feel it, then back it off.

The spring on top of the adjuster would keep the shoes from dragging, so as long as the parking brake cable is loose, that's not your problem.

My thoughts, anyway.

-- A
Click to expand...
i'm totally unfamiliar with drums. can you go into more detail about checking/adjusting this spring?
 
I think you might have your brake to tight. there is a little slit in the drum to ajust it. I dont know witch way to turn it though. that might be it
 
again - not too familiar w/ drums. i can go pull the tire off my wheel - will this be easy to locate? anyone have input on which direction to turn? is this an allen type head i'll be working with?
 
there should be some of the e brake cable sticking out of the rear backing plates sleeve. if the nub is all the way against the sleeve they are locked.

I didn't see what year your blazer was but do you have one line to each rear spring front hanger or do they both run to the drivers side (85 ish year slipt)


once you have the drum off you will see the e brake bar should have some tension on it but not tight.

with your middle line through the " U " shape piece off of the front line it should run back to reach line off of the backing plates. there should be one connector per side and then tighten up the middle "U" steel piece with the 2 nuts that shoudl be right behind the "U" piece ( it's just a curved piece of steel to loop the cable through)

also once the drums are off you should see if the shoes are wet from a leaking cyclinder or if you have funny wear on the drums (dull spots and smooth spots)
 
cool. what is the torque spec on the hub bolts for my 14bff for when i reassemble?
 
colbystephens said:
i'm totally unfamiliar with drums. can you go into more detail about checking/adjusting this spring?
Click to expand...
Remove drum -- meaning remove wheel, shaft, hub.

At the bottom is a star-shaped adjuster. It has a tab, spring loaded, up against it so it can only turn one way (out, to keep the shoes spread as they wear thin.) I would pull the tab out a bit and turn the star the other way so the adjuster gets shorter, i.e. the shoes move in a bit.

Or read the section in your service manual about adjusting brakes -- drums are all the same, 10-bolt rear, 12-bolt, 14, whatever.

This is why I like rear disc :)

-- A
 
The green circle is the adjuster for the brakes. Behind it there is a "window" on the backing plate that you can stick a flat blade screw driver in to turn the wheel. It will turn one way and tighten but if you push the lever in with a pick and then turn the other way with the screwdriver then it will loosen. If you are going through the trouble to pull the drums you might as well go disc. Is this on a 14FF?

Oh here is the pic.
Brakes.JPG

Ira

Brakes.JPG
 
After you remove the shaft, yes the drum should just pull off, unless your brakes are to tight, like what your explaining
 
Dont forget to remove the spindle nuts before the hub and drum will come off. Then you have the issue of the brakes holding the drum and hub on:doah:.

Ira
 
(claire typing for colby) just got the spindle nuts off and the cover to the drum off. Colby noticed when he was spinning the drum freely bc there was no axle shaft he noticed that it was catching on the brake.

How does he know how much to adjust the spring?
 
sandawgk5 said:
The green circle is the adjuster for the brakes. Behind it there is a "window" on the backing plate that you can stick a flat blade screw driver in to turn the wheel. It will turn one way and tighten but if you push the lever in with a pick and then turn the other way with the screwdriver then it will loosen. If you are going through the trouble to pull the drums you might as well go disc. Is this on a 14FF?

Oh here is the pic.
View attachment 33616

Ira
Click to expand...

how do I know how far to adjust it?
 
Read my post right above yours. Now that is just the way I do it. I spin the drum and turn the ratchet adjuster just until you feel no drag
 
The brake shoes should just barely make contact with the drum when properly adjusted.

To answer his previous question about how the e-brake works, there is a flat bar that runs between the shoes, just under the wheel cylinder. That's the parking brake strut. Next, there is a lever attached to the back of the rear shoe that connects to the parking brake cable. That lever pulls against the parking brake strut to actuate the parking brake. The lever should be almost completely behind the brake shoe when it's disengaged.
 
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