Help! Hubs wont get back in now!

[Dabba]

Hey guys, just wanted to ask a few quick questions. I have an 86 k30 cucv with which i suspect the front u joints are going. I hear the occasional click when i turn the wheel, and when the hubs are locked i get noises and a light vibration sometimes, though that seems to have gone away. How do i check the axle u joints and how easy are they to replace? Or are they greaseable? I really only have hand tools and a driveway, no garage or vice. I have access to a crappy impact gun but id prefer to not use it as the compressor is buried under so much ****.

So, do-able driveway job or should i have the mechanic do it when i get it inspected. I need to do the brakes anyway i dont want to waste the cash if i can do it on my own

 

[POORBOYK5]

The u-joints can be checked easily. theres enough room between the knuckle and the housing to get your hands in there. Steering wheel straight in 2wd, hubs unlocked, twist the inner and stub shafts in opposite directions, as you would a driveshaft u-joint. As for changing them. It can be done in a driveway. Do you have the D60 hub socket? Are you familiar with setting wheel bearings? It could prob be done with the hammer/chisel trick, but I don't like recommending that (unless your in a pinch) you would have to remove caliper, lockout, spindle nut(s) wheel bearings, rotor/hub assy, then the spindle itself, then you can remove the axle shaft and replace the u-joint. I'm a preventitive kind of guy. I'd replace the hub seal at the very least while I was at it, and wheel bearings if they were showing any signs of moisture or contamination (water etc). If you're replaceing rotors while servicing the brakes, you'll need to drive the wheel studs out as they go through the rotor and get pressed into the back of the hub. just my .02, others may have other views for you as well.

 

[Dabba]

Never did the wheel bearings nor do i have the socket. So far my experience with the truck has been replacing the starter a bunch of teams, changing out an external seal on the xfer case and doing the kingpins on the d60. Last i checked, i had water in the diff too so i need to change that as well asap. I had the bearings and seals replaced and it somehow still got in there. Front end needs a bit done

 

[sweetk30]

http://coloradok5.com/35splineupgrade.shtml

same as this minus new hubs and shafts.

 

[Dabba]

Yeah, i believe i can get the axle shafts out on my own fine. Im thinking about just taking them and the new joints to a place to do them if the price is right. Another question i have though, what seals need to be replaced to keep the hub dry, and where are the seals to keep water out of the diff? Because it always seems to get in there, and i know its not from the breather.

 

[Dabba]

Got everything off okay. First side took hour and a half, next side took half hour. PRetty easy. I hope putting it back together is easy as well. D side u join was pretty much frozen on one axis. The grease at the base of the rotors was looking brand new, compared to the muddy stuff at my hubs, looks like the water is getting in there somehow. O rings look good. Meh. Oh well, hope it all fits back together. Im shot.

 

[Dabba]

Hey guys, im trying to get my hubs back in, but they wont go in all the way. They're just shy about a milimeter or two, so i cant get the c clips in. Ive checked again and again, the rotor is back on without any space, i tightened down all 6 bolts, and ive checked the pinion nuts, theyre in tight as well as the locking ring. Everything is as snug as i can get it and i still dont have enough room. I have mismatched hubs, but i would think all hubs for the dana 60 would be universal, theyre the same hubs that are off the truck.

 

[6.2Blazer]

Take a screwdriver or prybar to the axleshaft inside the knuckle and pry them outwards. This should give you the extra space needed to put on the clips.

 

[Dabba]

Take a screwdriver or prybar to the axleshaft inside the knuckle and pry them outwards. This should give you the extra space needed to put on the clips.

Thanks for the idea! ill try that now!

 

[DokWatson]

Nevermind, you have an m1008...was gunna say it should be a non C clip axle

 

[owenst7]

Take a screwdriver or prybar to the axleshaft inside the knuckle and pry them outwards. This should give you the extra space needed to put on the clips.

If this doesn't do it, very thoroughly inspect the inner wheel bearing seat on the spindle for scratches, imperfections, etc. Sometimes there will be a burr where the diameter gets larger just outward of the seat area. If you find a small nick, you can polish it off with some sandpaper or something similar. If the bearing has spun on the spindle you'll need a new spindle though.

Also, that inner bearing can sometimes get cocked very slightly and bind on the spindle when you're lifting the hub/rotor on to the spindle.

 

[78-K5]

I have a 10bolt with warn hubs so don't know if it applies.

The last splined portion (the largest piece that is part of the locking hub mechanism) wasn't sliding in all the way. It had the splines that rode on the shaft and splines on the outer edge that lined up with the hub itself. I tried turning it and pushing and eventually all the splines lined up and it went in. Didn't take any force. Just a light push as you turn it.

Don't know if you're talking about the same thing.

 

[Dabba]

No, i was getting it in with use of wood and a hammer, but it wouldnt seat in all the way. There was like a milimeter off so i couldnt get the c clips on though. But using the prybar on the Axleshafts was spot on. Gave plenty of play to get em in. Thanks again!