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Help me paint my bed.

That rage gold is good stuff, my body man uses er.


Ive also had good luck using pro form bondo, seems to apply nice and sand fairly well.

Im no pro by any means, but I used lots of Bondo brand stuff years back. Found it just to be complete crap :doah:
 
Stripped the dented area this morning in preparation for hammering /welding of some kind. Hopefully shows the dents well too.









And in this pic, doesit look like the black is tthe primer and then there are two layers of paint above that?

 
black is generally EDP.. than prolly a fill and seal primer over it...

what grit was that?

remember, you want the most aggressive grit that the next coat will accept, and fill... thus initial fill work, I like as nasty as I can run, usually 24, or 36 grit...

and can you get behind the panel?


gotta run out but i'll post more later...
 
That was just with a scotch brite stripped wheel on my angle grinder. Just to get the paint off. I do remember you talking about the metal surface needing around a 36 grit. I'll be picking up a DA and some quality paper for it in varying grits.

Yes i can get to the back side. Kinda. I can snake my hand up in there to hold a dolly i think, as long as its not a very "tall" dolly.
 
This thread is a great idea I'll definitely be watching. Not sure if you have access to a Porta power but I used one on my last bed for a similar situation they have a small spreader that fits up there perfectly and moves very slow so you have good control .they are relatively cheap and very useful. Here's a pic of it.

2014-11-07 16.20.42.png
 
Ok have fun! Does the spoon dolly serve a specific function? Or is it simply a dolly with a handle on it?

Here is some pretty good reading on hammer and dolly techniques.

http://www.autocorner.ca/pages/techniques.htm

The duck bill on that Porta power could be useful, but I feel this job is small enough that it shouldn't be necessary. I'll keep it in mind tho! Thanks!
 
I found that a light dinging spoon came in very handy for a lot of things:

p885.jpg
 
chevyman7579 said:
Not sure if you have access to a Porta power but I used one on my last bed for a similar situation they have a small spreader that fits up there perfectly and moves very slow so you have good control .they are relatively cheap and very useful.
Click to expand...

Something else that might work is deflating a basketball so it fits up there and slowly inflating it.
 
Never actually tried that but I hear it works. Could be worth a shot just for the heck of it anyway!
 
If you have ANY rusted metal to replace, do it before anything else.

After that, I'd remove all the paint from the dented area and then get yourself a nice long metal straight edge ruler or something to check straightness. Then lay it up against the dented area in a variety of places to figure out which areas are too high and which are too low. Then you can figure out what kind of tools you need to move the metal in or out.
 
There isn't any rust to replace. Just some surface rust that should blast off pretty easy. I have a 2ft and 4ft aluminum level which I could use as a straight edge right? Just with the eye it looks like it needs to go in in some spots and out in other spots. But I'll get some pics with the level on there.
 
just remember, the reason there is a dent is cuz the metal is stretched... it's not just a matter of metal getting pushed in and banging it out..

you'll want to work hammer off hit's... pressing out on the low spots with a dolly, and lightly working the high spots or surrounding area with the hammer...

sorry, I haven't gotten back to this, a bit busy this time o' year.... I'll try to post some more tomorrow on shrinking and working metal.. lot's of nuances to sheetmetal straightening..
 
y5mgisi said:
There isn't any rust to replace. Just some surface rust that should blast off pretty easy. I have a 2ft and 4ft aluminum level which I could use as a straight edge right? Just with the eye it looks like it needs to go in in some spots and out in other spots. But I'll get some pics with the level on there.
Click to expand...


A level won't work as well as a thinner ruler, but better than nothing. A ruler is easier to see under for me and can kinda flex a little to help on surfaces that aren't quite flat. Ryokan is right though, do a little research before you pick up a hammer. Depending on how committed you are, there's a couple books I'd recommend.
 
Not overly commited. It will still get used and abused as a dump run truck/woods truck/yard debris/cruiser. So i dont want to spend so much time getting it perfect that i cringe when i drag a tree limb across the bed side. But i also want to try my best to avoid dragging stuff across the bed side so as to make the paint look as nice as possible as long as possible.

So anyway, im not afraid of putting body filler in, but want to fix stuff to the point where most body men would deem the repair acceptable. So i'll go pick up a ruler!
 
I like your plan!
Not too nice but still nice! Something about a stockish 3/4 ton 70s GM that has always has turned me on! :thumb:
 
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