CK5
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Here is my baby

if that is at the rear wheels, with 20% slippage at the crank it would be putting out 420 hp and 518 ft lbs. 25% is more likely in a 4wd truck. thats pretty rockin especially with no headers. :thumb:

"a cam 2 sizes above stock"
do you know the cam specs on your motor?
duration @ .050 is what your looking for when comparing cams. various compaines spec their "advertiesed duration" at different lift like .004 or .006 of lifter rise. so the @ .050 figure is an accurate way of measuring and comparing all camshafts.
 
with a 700r4 and 35's i've heard 35-40% of the crank hp is eaten up in the drivetrain. with 31's 25-30% should be right...

SO YOU DID GET IT RWHP DYNOED OR WAS THAT THE GM SPECS?

Only reason i ask is because i thought i saw a gm 383 with 430 somethin ft lbs.
 
Hello,
it was "RWHP DYNOED"
Thanks
Adam
beastofablaze said:
with a 700r4 and 35's i've heard 35-40% of the crank hp is eaten up in the drivetrain. with 31's 25-30% should be right...

SO YOU DID GET IT RWHP DYNOED OR WAS THAT THE GM SPECS?

Only reason i ask is because i thought i saw a gm 383 with 430 somethin ft lbs.
 
can you scan and post your dyno sheet and cam specs? I would like to see the torque curve. That thing has more torque than my stroked Mustang.
 
Sled Dog - My 82 has rust in the firewall like that at the seam. :(


I made the comment about running manifolds instead of headers. I just hate dealing with headers and would rather sacrifice a few HP.. :D Mine have never leaked but they rust out quickly..... Yes I bought the cheaper ones..... But I cleaned them up since they were scratched in the box. Used 1500* paint and that stuff burnt off after a few times driving around town. :( Manifolds are so much easier.
 
Emmettology 101 said:
I made the comment about running manifolds instead of headers. I just hate dealing with headers and would rather sacrifice a few HP.. :D Mine have never leaked but they rust out quickly..... Yes I bought the cheaper ones..... But I cleaned them up since they were scratched in the box. Used 1500* paint and that stuff burnt off after a few times driving around town. :( Manifolds are so much easier.

not if you spend the coin... ;)

imo the power loss is significant usually between some nice Thorleys or Super Comps and manifolds with even a mildly modified mill... its certainly one of the first most desirable power mods...

and they certainly sound better than stock or cheap headers.. cheapies have that tinny sound and don't hold up.
 
ryoken said:
not if you spend the coin... ;)

imo the power loss is significant usually between some nice Thorleys or Super Comps and manifolds with even a mildly modified mill... its certainly one of the first most desirable power mods...

and they certainly sound better than stock or cheap headers.. cheapies have that tinny sound and don't hold up.


I agree, also, shortys are a waste IMO.
 
I didn't get a no name brand header either time. When I bought the truck there were Hooker Super Comps on it. They lasted about 2 years or so. This time I bought Heddmans regular headers that are normally about $140.

I think if I were ever to buy them again, it would either be Sanderson cast headers(the ones like manifolds) or stock manifolds and maybe get them extrude honed.
 
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