CK5
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hooker header question...<--look @ K5MONSTERCVEV :)

So do you drill a hole in the #2 cylinder's header pipe then weld that output on so that you can connect the tube for the stove pipe?

SOUND OF BUZZER/WRONG! If you look at the picture I provided, you will see a flat piece of steel at the base of the small piece of tube, this is only TACK WELDED to the number #2 cylinder headers tube. DO NOT DRILL ANY HOLES INTO YOUR HEADERS FOR A HEAT RISER!
 
The hedman tube works differently than the factory tube. As you know, the factory tube gets fed directly from the exhaust. The hedman tube just clamps/welded to the primary and pulls the air from around the primary. Like 1-ton said, their is no drilling involved.
 
Ok, you see why I was confused though.

I'll see about going and picking these up then. Seems like relocating the O2 sensor and mounting that Headman riser tube will solve the main problems and keep the smog station happy.

Shoot, now on to finding those 5.13's for the axles...never dull.

-Avery
 
The easiest solution to the O2 is to just buy collectors for the headers that have an O2 bung welded in... You more than likely should have a heated O2 too....
 
stkcode said:
The hedman tube works differently than the factory tube. As you know, the factory tube gets fed directly from the exhaust. The hedman tube just clamps/welded to the primary and pulls the air from around the primary. Like 1-ton said, their is no drilling involved.

To clarify for the original poster, this makes it sound like exhaust gasses are pulled through the heat riser, which they aren't. The operation for the Hedman piece and stock are the same. Stock uses a riveted shield that fits around the manifold to collect heat (look at yours) and the Hedman kit uses a similar idea, but around one primary tube. The THERMAC valve opens with a thermostatic switch when the engine is cold to pull hot air in from around the exhaust manifold, and closes to get cool air when warmed up. THERMAC helps to speed up engine warmup and lower cold engine emission, along with working against carb icing.

I would also add that moving the O2 sensor as far down as you are talking will *probably* require a heated O2 sensor.
 
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