CK5
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How do I get the hub off?

Thanks to everybody who helped out on this :waytogo:

That outside nut that you have to use the special socket on didn't want to go on either....finally it "bit" and I got a small turn on it...then had to use a cheater bar to turn it the rest of the way....it was also hard to get off, had to use cheater bar to get it off...
Is everyone elses that way? or do I have some bad threads?

the min torque spec for that outer one is 160 ft lbs on 1981 and later...80 ft lbs on 1980...i don't have a spec on earlier models, but would think same as 1980...anyone else know?
 
I wasn't sure about flipping the washer because it had a flat side and a somewhat round side
 
I know it's alittle bit late now, but how much grease do you guys put in there where the bearings are....I packed the bearings by hand with the Lucas Red stuff waterproof....after I put the races in I didn't fill it up with grease....was I supposed to?
 
I know it's alittle bit late now, but how much grease do you guys put in there where the bearings are....I packed the bearings by hand with the Lucas Red stuff waterproof....after I put the races in I didn't fill it up with grease....was I supposed to?

Only the bearings need to be packed with grease, packing grease between the bearings is nothing more than a waste of grease.
 
Hey, Scott, how many keepers is he missing? Most of the stuff I work on from time to time has hubs.
I don't think I have pulled the front hub off a full time since the 80s.
Most folks around here have converted over to part time.

I have seen just about every mix you can imagine.
Some have the ear type keeper on the axle to keep the back flange up tight for a seal,
Some have the wire ring inside the hub to hold the locking chunk in place.
And some have both.

The reason I was not sure about the wire ring keeper on his, was because I worked on one that the splines on the outside of the chunk were turned down from the outside edge and the groove for the wire keeper was actually cut into the splines of the hub.

When the chunk was all the way out, it covered up the wire keeper. You had to shove it back to get to the keeper. So I was thinking his might be the same way.

Also, while I have you, check out post 39. It sounds like he may have a thread problem. I don't remember having trouble screwing either of the nuts on until they got tight.
I don't think he could have cross-threaded it that far.......

But, like I say, I have probably worked on most every type there is at one time or another, but its just every now and then. I don't work on them every day, or even every month.

And about half the time, its out in the backside of h*ll where I have to pull them out and then help change the wheel bearings.
At night.
In the mud.
With ice forming on the tools.
 
I have never taken a cap off of an axle with slugs BUT I would suspect that the large retaining wire that is found on manual hubs is probably not used with slugs as I think it would interfere with the cap going on. There however should be a snap ring on the end of the stub axle which along with the spring behind the hub will keep tension against the stub axle seal to keep water/dirt out of the spindle and bearings.

The part about the spindle nut(s) being tight IS NOT correct and he might have only had trouble since from the sound of it he doesn't have a spindle nut socket for removing or tightening the nuts properly.
 
The part about the spindle nut(s) being tight IS NOT correct and he might have only had trouble since from the sound of it he doesn't have a spindle nut socket for removing or tightening the nuts properly.

I do have the spindle nut socket....that's what I used. That's why I was wondering why the nut was so tight.
If I have thread issues, is the spindle so hard that it would chew up the nut threads, or could the nut damage the spindle theads?
 
Both the spindle and the nuts are easily replaced. If you strip it down a little farther you'll see the spindle is a bolt on deal...

The nuts should spin on most of the way by hand, and only require the ratchet or bar for the final.

Rene
 
Both the spindle and the nuts are easily replaced. If you strip it down a little farther you'll see the spindle is a bolt on deal...

The nuts should spin on most of the way by hand, and only require the ratchet or bar for the final.

Rene

Well...that thing is on now and it ain't comin' off by itself....so I'll cross that bridge a little later...are spindles only a junkyard item? If so, I might need to start looking before they are gone.
 
You might be able to cut one good nut in half, place them together behind the boogered up section, and running the "nut" of with some channel locks
 
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