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How do I measure for shocks?

Whitetrashbeautiful

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What's the best way to measure for shocks? Also what's the best way to find the right shock I need for my truck? It Is an '82 k-10 on 1-ton drivetrain (383/th400/np208/D60/14bff)with a 10" all spring lift and DIY shackle flip kit in rear that will be used as an all around recovery, trail head garage, camping, tow rig. I'm making it big to pull out all these F-250 and 350's that are all the rage here in eastern carolina. Right now I have 35's on for rollers, but I will be putting 40-42's on it once the money presents itself. But for now I want to get the shocks on right. So what's the best way to measure for shocks and what in y'all's personal experience is the best shock out right now that won't break the bank? Marine Vet so the VA is paying for this build, but I don't want to spend a boat load of money cuz I'm a cheap sob. And since I'm gonna be rolling big meats would it be wise to run dual shocks or one of the external reservoir shocks since they're getting little cheaper now.
 
You need to get fully extended and fully compressed measurements. So you will need to find a way to flex the truck out. 15" travel is about the most travel you will get until you get into the high dollar shocks. So if you find you have more travel than that, you might want to look into setting up some limit straps so you don't damage the shocks
 
I use an engine hoist and a spar e wheel with a hook welded to it. Jack up in he rear drivers for compression measurement on the passengers front and vice versa for the other side. Then switch to the front to measure the rear.

Btw you measure rebound ( extension) at the same time just sometimes have to jack it up more. Good idea to measure for bumpstops at the time too
 
With that tall of a lift, I doubt you will get 15 inches of travel. But for what you are building it for, it will do just fine (plus I know there is a lot of mud in those areas right?). I think we need some pics of that thing :waytogo:
 
That is an awesome idea! :thumb:

One thing though make sure your hoist is on the hole where it allows it to lift the most.

I have told people this trick and they don't move it off the thousand pound hole.

It will ruin your engine hoist, your front body work and your day if your hoist collapses.

And trust me on this it won't collapse on the heavy setting. I have lifted rockwelled full size trucks in this manner.

Works awesome though. Forces articulation Gets everything in the right spot and will let you cycle steering and stuff to make sure nothing hits
 
Plenty of mud here in carolina(that why I'm going to put a Superwinch 18.5 on the front and a 12k on the rear. These fords love to go big or go home and get in way over their heads.) I'm not looking for extreme articulation, this ain't a little nimble jeep. Haha. Far from it. Good idea on the engine hoist, didn't think of that. Now on to my other part of the question, what brand and type of shock would be best suited for what I want to do? Non adjustable mono tube like a rancho 5000, a multi setting mono like the 9000 or fully adjustable like a set of bilstiens or should I go full out with triple bypass external reservoir coil-over air/hydraulic 3 per corner neon blue body with neon red pink and green shock boots? Sorry for that last one! My boys have got daddy tired, but they help with the truck so that's fine!!!! But seriously what type of shock are y'all running? And since tires are an arm and a leg and I really don't want to buy twice or three times, what's a good 40" tire? Prefer 15 inch rim but can go to 16 or 17. Plenty of sidewall to air down and float on the mud and the beach
 
For 1 ton axles, I would avoid the 15" wheel unless you want to do a lot of grinding on the calipers.
 
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