What is the best way to mount a ram with these type of ends? I am assuming some tabs that fit the opening? It's aprox 1 1/8" gap. Seems like that might be noisy..
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CK5
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Hyd ram mounting **Check my welds**
- Thread starter MTBLAZER89
- Start date
YZEATER
1/2 ton status
i just used some 1" tabs. had to clearance them and trim them down to get it to fit, but it works good. here's a crappy picture that shows where mine fit, can get more if ya need it. i also threaded the clevis end on as far as it would go, cause of the tight fit. i didn't have time to get a diff cover with a tab.
Yeah more pics would be great! Does it make noise while driving?
Where did you get your lines and fittings? I think mine are 3/8 NPT on the ram.
Where did you get your lines and fittings? I think mine are 3/8 NPT on the ram.
YZEATER
1/2 ton status
i got all my stuff at tractor supply. 3/8" fittings. can't tell ya if it makes any noises over all the other noises it makes.
i used tabs like this. they were 1" thick though. http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/HD-Flat-bottom-shock-tabs_p_1598.html
i used tabs like this. they were 1" thick though. http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/HD-Flat-bottom-shock-tabs_p_1598.html
Fred_M1010
1/2 ton status
If you don't use some kind of spherical bushing, I think it would be best to mount it like this to avoid binding issues and excessive wear:
(Edit: And with drag-link i obviously mean tie-rod
)
The same goes for the tab on the axle tube
(And use some washers to fill out the gap)
Because of the caster-angle, the tie-rod goes both back and down, when steering
I don't think this is a big issue, but why not minimize potential problems
I would prefer a greasable bushing though...
(Edit: And with drag-link i obviously mean tie-rod
)The same goes for the tab on the axle tube
(And use some washers to fill out the gap)
Because of the caster-angle, the tie-rod goes both back and down, when steering
I don't think this is a big issue, but why not minimize potential problems
I would prefer a greasable bushing though...
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I plan on mounting it to the tie rod and the axle. Same thing apply?
I think he meant tie rod.
Fred_M1010
1/2 ton status
Yup, I meant tie-rod 
I've edited it now, but I'm to lazy to change the drawing
I've edited it now, but I'm to lazy to change the drawing
Ok cool 
Picked this up today 4' of 3.5x1
Picked this up today 4' of 3.5x1
I used this:
http://diy4x.com/cart/index.php?route=product/product&path=17&product_id=109
And it has worked great for years.
http://diy4x.com/cart/index.php?route=product/product&path=17&product_id=109
And it has worked great for years.
Ok cool
please tell me you're going to use a 4.5" angle grinder and a battery powered drill to make tabs from this.
please tell me you're going to use a 4.5" angle grinder and a battery powered drill to make tabs from this.
Absolutely!
Can we get time-lapse video of the process. you'd spend more on cut off wheels and replacement batteries than it would've cost you to just buy a kit from Kert! 
you'd spend more on cut off wheels and replacement batteries than it would've cost you to just buy a kit from Kert! Ned Kelly
1/2 ton status
DD? No leakage? I'll by doing hydro-assist but I'm not 100% sure on using a diff cover mount - would you use the same method if you were to do it again? Just looking for positive reinforcement.
Whew my arm is tired
Actually cut pretty good. I'd never cut anything that thick with my torch before but I got the hang of it after a practice slice off the end
Still gotta do a little more finishing with the grinder to get the angles matched and all the corners smoothed. Any advantage to making the top rounded instead of corners like I have?
Next comes the joy of drilling a 1" hole
Actually cut pretty good. I'd never cut anything that thick with my torch before but I got the hang of it after a practice slice off the end
Still gotta do a little more finishing with the grinder to get the angles matched and all the corners smoothed. Any advantage to making the top rounded instead of corners like I have?
Next comes the joy of drilling a 1" hole
DD? No leakage? I'll by doing hydro-assist but I'm not 100% sure on using a diff cover mount - would you use the same method if you were to do it again? Just looking for positive reinforcement.
I wouldn't hesitate to use one of those mounts for strength. the force is distributed over quite a few bolts. The only reason i wouldn't be interested in it is the hassle of removing it to change gear oil. But, if you built a cover with a drain bung it wouldn't be so bad. You might consider looking at the option that makes the entire diff cover into a mounting point. I think RuffStuff makes one like that.
Whew my arm is tired
______
Next comes the joy of drilling a 1" hole
Nice!
The torch cuts really do look nice. I've never cut anything that thick with a torch and the cuts sure weren't that pretty! Looks good. 
I drilled through 1 1/8" of steel with a 1" hole saw for each of my clevis mounts on the rear bumper. I killed one hole saw, but the second one completed the job just fine. It was in a drill press and it was quite a PITA. I hope you're not intending to do that with a hand held!
Thanks! These cuts came out better looking than the ones I did the other night on some 3/16 
Whatever its better than cut off wheels
No I'll be using a drill press. Good idea on the hole saw!
Whatever its better than cut off wheels No I'll be using a drill press. Good idea on the hole saw!
do you have a 1" bit? If you have one, I think that would be better than a hole saw. I noticed that part of the problem with drilling deep holes with a hole saw is that it has a hard time expelling the chips/shavings. So, it would build up and then you'd have a hard time cutting. It would be hard to remove the chips too - I suppose you could blast it with compressed air or something. However, if you have a drill bit - it should remove the chips for you.
DD? No leakage? I'll by doing hydro-assist but I'm not 100% sure on using a diff cover mount - would you use the same method if you were to do it again? Just looking for positive reinforcement.
Its not a daily driver but I've reefed on it enough to bend the tierod out and destroy it a few times before I built a bombproof one. I'm hitting it with 44" tires and I'm not nice to it.
Absolutely no leaks at all and I would do it again that way and wouldnt think twice about it.
Ok so I got the one tab built. I am not sure if I should leave the top angled, or round it off like the pre-fabed ones?
My next concern is welding this thing on. I have a Lincoln 175 currently still using flux core. Tips?
My next concern is welding this thing on. I have a Lincoln 175 currently still using flux core. Tips?
