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I cut out the balljoints!

Cut out rusted balljoint nut or change housings>

  • Try to grind off the upper ball joint nut

    Votes: 9 81.8%

  • Change to a newer rust free housing & set up gears

    Votes: 2 18.2%
  • Total voters
    11
johnnychimpo said:
My point exactly. I can get the gears setup no problem & I figure with all the dry rotted seals & such It might be easier & cheaper this way to be able to drive it sooner.
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Ya, if you have the set-up tools. Get your stripes by posting a pattern when you get there.:D
 
I decided to cut the upper ball joint off. Now I'm left with the chore of removing the adjustment sleeve that is also rusted badly. Would it be alright to leave it in and put the knuckle back on w/the new balljoints. The kit came with a new one & I bought the sleeve socket but I don't want to round off the slots.(I know...HEAT it!) tell me if my pics are too big this time.

Here's the sleeve...matches the balljoint stud/nut nicely.
e832a6d8.jpg


new balljoints pressed in w/ my new to me 20 ton press (got it for $60 from a guy who bought it new but doesn't own a truck to move it with. So it sat in a shop for a couple of months.
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First I bought the Harbor Freight Balljoint C press but after trying it I found it was easier with the 20 ton.
 
Since you have the ball joint out, the sleeve should be easy to remove. Soak it overnight, and then use a ball peen hammer to rap the casting (smack it good). Notice the sleeve has a split in it.
 
Bolts on a steering arm are not that big of a deal. The big deal is that they have lockwashers and are torqued heavily and checked. I have been running bolts in my steering arm for at least 3 years and a friend of mine has been doing it for at least 6 years.

I check the torque on the bolts periodically and have had not had a problem with them trying to back out at all.

Harley
 
Once I got them out I realized they were stout, good quality bolts. Never found what grade the markings indicate though. The shocker was when I pulled the steering arm off the draglink taper was not even close to the taper on my link end. I compared it to another Chevy raised arm. It was different looking & the taper/hole was smaller than the one I took off. I guess that explains a lot of slop in the steering.

I'm thinking the one on the left may be a Dodge arm, what do you think?

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johnnychimpo said:
do I hit the "C" surrounding the sleeve or the actual sleeve w/ a chisel?
Click to expand...
Smack the casting around the sleeve, 4 o'clock and/or 8 o'clock with 12 o'clock being the passenger side.
The sound should change when she lets go.
 
johnnychimpo said:
do I hit the "C" surrounding the sleeve or the actual sleeve w/ a chisel?
Click to expand...
You need a special socket to fit that castlated nut. A torch to heat the "C" around the nut is the best method to get it loose. Heating will get it broken loose quicker than penetrating spray. Important thing to use is the socket and an impact gun. Take your time and don't get crazy. Just keep applying heat to the "C" until the nut starts to back out.
 
thatK30guy said:
You need a special socket to fit that castlated nut. A torch to heat the "C" around the nut is the best method to get it loose. Heating will get it broken loose quicker than penetrating spray. Important thing to use is the socket and an impact gun. Take your time and don't get crazy. Just keep applying heat to the "C" until the nut starts to back out.
Click to expand...
I bought the socket but was afraid to use my impact on it. I'll try 'notca's whacking method then a MAPP torch. When I tried the socket on it with a ratchet it wanted to slip out (bathed in PB blaster for a couple of days) so not sure about the impact. Thanks for the reply.
 
johnnychimpo said:
I bought the socket but was afraid to use my impact on it. I'll try 'notca's whacking method then a MAPP torch. When I tried the socket on it with a ratchet it wanted to slip out (bathed in PB blaster for a couple of days) so not sure about the impact. Thanks for the reply.
Click to expand...
"Smacking the casting" is actually from the factory manual.
 
What you need to do is get a 3/4" drive ratchet and socket with a long bar for leverage.... Put a little PB Blaster on there and they will pop right loose!!!! I just did this a few months ago to my ball joints for a 1979 axle. Rusted to ****. Dont bother with the cotter pin its will fall apart as the nut breaks loose. 3/4 drive is the key tho, best tool set in the world!!!!!:laugh:
 
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