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I need and engine!! Post up or... DECISION TIME!

What motor to drop into my '73?

  • Crate Motor from who-ever-engine.com

    Votes: 56 41.8%

  • Built motor from a local shop

    Votes: 43 32.1%

  • Buddy's old corvette block & lotsa elbow grease

    Votes: 31 23.1%

  • back pages of 'tradin-times' - fingers crossed!

    Votes: 4 3.0%
  • Total voters
    134
Just tell em to quit their bitchin ;) I'd take diesel fumes any day over jet fuel, but I deal with JP-8 and jet exhaust every day. I've come to love the smell :)
 
u2slow said:
Is it not also disengenious to lead him into thinking bolting-up a Caddy 500 is the complete answer?

Each possibility has pros and cons... a 425hp 383ci has issues. As does a mild BBC, as does a 472/500 Caddy.
Click to expand...

nobody ever said a 500 Caddy was the be all, end all engine option. it was just stated that it is a good option, with both big block power and small block weight.
 
BillyTungsten said:
What is a 10b-sfa??

(now you all know what a newb I really am!)

10- bolt something or other....
Click to expand...
The replies below sort-of said it but yea, 10 bolt Solid Front Axle. So it goes this way, if you were to build a stout K5, you would generally replace the axles and springs and etc. with equipment usually from 3/4 or 1 ton trucks, all have beefier brgs, axles, difs, bushings and castings. At the extreme end of options, if you need a K5 that can handle jumping, BIG tire/wheels, can get out of a completely flexed and stuck; a BBC (or maybe a diesel with a blow job?) (not to forget CadBlock) will probably break an axle/u-joint/spring/yoke/T-case/etc. from a stock K5 or 1/2 ton trucks (10bolt). SNAP.
 
low buck, get it going now.....the Corvette engine....although it probably isn't any different from other 350's (if its a 77 not much to whoop it up about) but its running and cheap.
 
you might want to do some looking at the tech articles in www.chevyhiperformance.com, starting with that vette motor, there are many ideas that can be pulled off in your price range that wouldnt be too difficult. and as far as not being an expert, you can always buy the parts yourself, and have the shop assemble it and it would be alot cheaper than the engine they want to sell you. at the very least its an idea to look into. i think theyve done severlal attempts at 300hp for 500 dollars, and 400hp for 2500 bucks, and also look into battle of the titans.

which vette engine are you starting with?
 
Post up or shut up....

Allright, I am tired of so many different opinions...

Help with opinions??


:rolleyes:
You got enough opinions you don't want ?
 
Yes diesels came with 10b... they also came with the same amount of tq and less hp then a stock tbi 350.

SFA stands for semi float axle... basically it means the axleshaft supports the weight of the vehicle AND the power to the wheels instead of just power like a full float axle. If you break a semi float axle shaft in the rear your tire will literally fall off. with a full float you just won't have power to the ground on that tire. SF is alot weaker than FF.

I would be more concerned about the tranny though. stock 700r4's don't like 400 hp especially if you gonna be using 4by.

jeffhk5 said:
GM Performance H.O. crate engine from Summit 330hp/380tor. and it's at your door for like $2700 , junkyard efi. and be done with it.
Click to expand...

Uh... you'll be leaving about 50 hp on the table if you do that. anything over 280 hp and the computer will need tuning... not to mention the stock injectors and tbi won't support that kind of power. Ask me how I know:D . You'll starve the motor and it'll get hot real fast running lean.
 
Last edited:
Allright, fellas... I believe I have made a decision. I have found a local outfit that offers several different engine packages. I have spent some time on the phone (they answer it!) with them and they seem very helpful and willing to answer any questions. This is the breakdown:

355 C.I., 350 HP SBC

BLOCK:

4-bolt main
O.E. cast crankshaft
High performance connecting rods
High-tensile rod bolts
Hypereutectic pistons
Moly rings
Bored aluminum alloy rod bearings
Bore aluminum alloy main bearings
Tri metal cam bearings
Double roller H/P timing set
Comp Cams camshaft 268/280 duration, .477/.480 lift
High performance hydraulic lifters
High volume oil pump

HEADS & VALVE TRAIN:

Dart iron eagle S/S cylinder heads
2.02 Stainless swirl polished intake valves
1.60 Stainless swirl polished exhaust valves
High performance valve springs
Long slot rockers
Hardened pushrods

ALSO:

Edelbrock rpm intake manifold
Edelbrock 600 CFM carb
Accell 5200 series distributor
A/C spark plugs
8mm High performance wire set
Stamped steel oil pan & timing cover
Chromed valve covers
H/P harmonic balancer
9.75:1 compression - premium pump gas

NOTES:
Block is vat-cleaned, pressure-checked, magna-fluxed
Engine is dynode, tuned, and delivered to my door.

So, I guess I will need a water pump, pulleys, a starter, and a flexplate...

This, delivered to my door, for how much?????

$2,950.00

Good deal or no? With a phone call I have the motor within two weeks.

Thanks for all the help! Please tell me what you think...
 
Sounds like a good deal

The only think i would be worried about is i tried an edelbrock carb or rather bought my k5 with one and never could get to work well on any kind of incline or off camber situation. Better with a Q jet or holly truck avenger. I ran a Qjet for awhile on mine with great performance off road. Though most of if not all of my driving is trails and creek beds. The truck avenger works great though too also ran one of those. Till i decided on fuel injection. Know somone that runs one on there rock rigged old Bronco and loves it. Saw it run Tellico with no problem. Would highly recomend one. Only reason i decided on fuel injection is i have to run my rig on the street too. Better on fuel than carb and well it's just somthing else to spend money on that i don't have.
 
Good job. There's enough there to keep you busy worrying about the other stuff you'll break.:haha: I take it we're talking a local dealer in HP. I wouldn't let it stop me but warranty? and torque, you are looking for torque. The 350 HP seems conservative, and if its' because of torque, yea! Back behind the guys at the counter, are there pictures of customers and their cars, typically weekend warriors that race in amateur and sportsman classes, some signed pictures? If the pictures are really old, but the old man that runs the place is really seasoned, thats OK too. Are they 4X4/OffRoad also or just street?
Good start.:D
 
12499120_large.jpg



RAMJET 350 :D
 
Jagged said:
Just tell em to quit their bitchin ;) I'd take diesel fumes any day over jet fuel, but I deal with JP-8 and jet exhaust every day. I've come to love the smell :)
Click to expand...

JP-8? I thought only the SR-71 Blackbird ran anything besides JP-5. :confused:


Anyway, it seems that the engine decision has been made, so I'll keep my opinion to myself. :)
 
sounds like a good deal but depending on how you use it and gearing etc. that might be a lot of cam and heads for a trail truck. looks like a killer combo for a camaro or nova. All depends on your rig and what you do with it.
 
you can buy my fuel injected lt1... all ready to bolt in...1600...lonly 55000 miles...you know you wanna:D
 
TTT!

I have saved my pennies, spring is springing, and I am 'itchin to get on the trails... I am reviving this thread to get opinions on the install and what I need to do it right. I should have the motor in about two weeks... the builder tells me I need:

Water pump
Pulley
Starter
Flexplate
Coil

...all of this seems reasonable and quite inexpensive (I have a new starter sitting on the bench). Please keep in mind I am not very knowledgable with engines, but I am learning... I am considering what if anything I need to do to the engine compartment or whatever you guys WISHED you had done before dropping in a new motor... for example: synthetic oil right from the start? Chevy orange or flat black? Pull the (non-working) AC unit for clearance? Clean & repaint the bay?
There is a lot to consider, and 'm sure you guys will have opinions... bring it on!

BTW, I have a mostly stock 1973, 32's, and never run with the top on.

The following is a list of what I will get with the new engine:

355 C.I., 350 HP SBC

BLOCK:

4-bolt main
O.E. cast crankshaft
High performance connecting rods
High-tensile rod bolts
Hypereutectic pistons
Moly rings
Bored aluminum alloy rod bearings
Bore aluminum alloy main bearings
Tri metal cam bearings
Double roller H/P timing set
Comp Cams camshaft 268/280 duration, .477/.480 lift
High performance hydraulic lifters
High volume oil pump

HEADS & VALVE TRAIN:

Dart iron eagle S/S cylinder heads
2.02 Stainless swirl polished intake valves
1.60 Stainless swirl polished exhaust valves
High performance valve springs
Long slot rockers
Hardened pushrods

ALSO:

Edelbrock rpm intake manifold
Edelbrock 600 CFM carb
Accell 5200 series distributor
A/C spark plugs
8mm High performance wire set
Stamped steel oil pan & timing cover
Chromed valve covers
H/P harmonic balancer
9.75:1 compression - premium pump gas

NOTES:
Block is vat-cleaned, pressure-checked, magna-fluxed
Engine is dynode, tuned, and delivered to my door.

So, I guess I will need a water pump, pulleys, a starter, and a flexplate...

This, delivered to my door, for how much?????

$2,950.00

Good deal or no? With a phone call I have the motor within two weeks.

Thanks for all the help! Please tell me what you think...
 
BillyTungsten said:
I am considering what if anything I need to do to the engine compartment or whatever you guys WISHED you had done before dropping in a new motor...
Click to expand...

After the first time of not doing it, I have since and will always from now on clean and paint the engine bay.
It was cool to get my first swap done but I always hated seeing the nice clean motor sitting in the dirty bay.
Some scrubbing, sanding, along with a few spray cans of primer and paint will go along way.

Good luck and congrats:waytogo: .
 
SUPER'BURB said:
After the first time of not doing it, I have since and will always from now on clean and paint the engine bay.
It was cool to get my first swap done but I always hated seeing the nice clean motor sitting in the dirty bay.
Some scrubbing, sanding, along with a few spray cans of primer and paint will go along way.

Good luck and congrats:waytogo: .
Click to expand...
I will second that and add now is a good time to check out the condition of your under hood wireing and repair or replace as required. And don't use the crap wire you get at checker or autozone discount places. Do a search on wire here for sources.
Is your top seal on the steering box leaking? Do it now. Ditto on the p/s pump. Seal kits are cheap and easy to do. Buy some wire loom and zip ties also and you can make all your wires look pro and pretty.
I love the fact that I can pop the hood and not have a birds nest of crappy wire and I have no oil on my driveway. And believe me, I've had plenty of both in my time.:D Chevy orange baby, Chevy orange. Aluminum intake? paint it hi - temp clear, greasy prints wipe right off. Show us pics when your done.
Cary
 
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