i need help on a transfer case swap

[cootersk5]

well once again im trying to do something that i dont know to much about. so if someone could educate me i would be very happy. ive got an 85 blazer that im putting in a new 350 a 700r4 that i just rebuilt in school and i would like to either rebuild the transfer case or get something better. the problem is i dont understand the transfer case. i know it makes the front and rear wheels turn but are there different one out there for the blazer that would work better than the stock one. if there are better ones does anyone know the prices and the differences and if there is not is there some upgrades for the stock transfer case
thanks for the help if anyone can give me some im trying to get this blazer ready for paragon this summer


thanks cooter(zak)

 

[protechk5]

well first what transfer case is it? If you put a different t-case your going to have to get new driveshafts, and maybe a cross member not sure on that tho. Most people like the 205, becasue it is real strong and you can find ones without a slip yoke. Unless your a hardcore wheeler, you should just keep your t case you have now.

 

[zeroz400]

You could get a np241 to replace your 208. You could rebuild the case you buy and put a slip yoke eliminator kit on it at the same time. I think you will need the case and the crossmember, someone else will chime in and tell you what you need.


Later

 

[cootersk5]

thank you to all that awnsered

 

[cootersk5]

its a 208 also at least thats what it says under specs

 

[the beast]

It really all depends on what your intentions are. But here are some of the Chevy t-case basics.

NP203: Used in mid 60's to early 80's trucks. "Full time" case as the front shaft always spins. Hi and Lo range only. You disconnect by unlocking your hubs. Cast iron case. Chain driven.

NP205: Used mid 70's to early 90's. Many different versions. Has 2Hi, 4Hi, and 4Lo options. Cast Iron case and gear driven. Very strong t-case, but has poor low range (1.96:1) Also look in this months 4wheel & Off road. They have a write up on this case.

NP208 (what you probably have): Used early 80's to late 80's. Has 2Hi, 4Hi, and 4Lo. Aluminum case and chain driven. Typically has slip yoke style rear output. Chain was somewhat undersized for the application. But has good Lo range ratio ( I forget the actual number)

NP241: Very similar to the 208 with many of the problem fixed. Beefier chain, still aluminum case and slip yoke design. Probably your best choice for an upgrade over a 208. Should be direct bolt in. You can also get slip yoke eliminator kits for it and decrease the chance of breakage that way. But that will most likely require a slightly longer rear shaft.

Hope this helps.

 

[cootersk5]

thanks a lot it helps greatly i was told the 205 was better but from what your saying it looks like im going to keep what i have or go for the 241
thanks cooter(zak)

 

[the beast]

The 205 is definately the strongest of the choices. But if you're only doing moderate wheeling, a well built 241 will serve you fine.

 

[Hossbaby50]

In my honest opinion I think swapping in a 241 inplace of your 208 is a waste of time and money. The only reason to swap to a 241 would be if your current case is trashed or for some reason you were having problems with the slipyoke like having to much suspension travel and could slip the yoke out to far. That is a very hard thing to do so I doubt you are having that problem.

People bad mouth the 208 alot but as long as you don't put a giant amount of horsepower threw it and protect it from hitting rocks and stuff it should last most people a long time. And if something goes wrong they are easy to rebuild.

Harley