I need some serious ball joint help

[bp71k5]

I assume you took the cir-clip off of the lower balljoint first?

 

[Chevy305]

I assume you took the cir-clip off of the lower balljoint first?

yes i did

 

[Avery4jc]

I think the haynes manual I have says to remove the lower balljoint first.

A balljoint press is a nice investment for the top one, but it may come loose easier if the lower one it out.

They come out with the knuckle but yes the one you want to hit on to get the knuckle (with both ball joints still in it) out is the lower one.

 

[Chevy305]

Got the knuckle off!!!!

I'm really happy I finally got the knuckle off!! The difference this time is that I used a 5/8" grade 8 bolt and nut with more washers to prevent them from deflecting I tightend the nut as hard I possibly could. Then I used a maap gas cylinder instead of the propane to heat the lower ball joint and with all the penetrating oil and grease, that sucker stayed burning for 5 mins after I turned the torch off! So I cranked the nut a little more until i couldn't move it and actually started to round it. Then I took my little ball peen hammer and hit the axel C part with a few wacks and it poped right out! I did have to cut the upper part of the threads off with my grinder to get the upper balljoint to come out. So now I'm going to bring the knuckle and spindle to a machine shop and have them press out the old ball joints, press in the new ball joints and remove the busted bearing in the spindle.

 

[jonathon]

I just beat the sh!t out of the pickle fork with a sledge.. drivers side took almost 20 mins but the passenger side was done in less than 3. The ball joints had deep gouges from the pickle fork but they were being replaced anyways.

I really wish I had my shop manual when I was messing with the adjusting sleeve, that was the only part I wasn't sure on and the Haynes manual I had didn't give any info at all I did manage to get the upper to finally torque after messing with it so I think it'll be okay...

I thought I'd add.. my axles aren't nearly that pitted

 

[4X4HIGH]

Do you read the instructions that come with the new ball joints? The instructions tell you what to torque the spanner sleeve to. If you take the knuckle to a shop to have the ball joints pressed in then maybe they never gave you back the instructions that came with the ball joints therefor you would have to rely on a Chiltons manual or the like for the info.

 

[Chevy305]

There are no instructions included with the ball joints, horray for Duralast...

 

[4X4HIGH]

Should have bought Moog, the best suspension parts by far.

 

[Chevy305]

Should have bought Moog, the best suspension parts by far.

They do come with a lifetime warentee

 

[Blue85]

They do come with a lifetime warentee

Reliability is more important than warranty on labor-intensive parts. That being said, I bought the Autozone LLT balljoints years ago and they haven't gone bad yet.

I just wanted to mention that you can build the spanner tool by cutting up a socket, but I forget which size you need. Also, the ball joint press can be used on the joints while still connected to the axle/knuckle, so that is an alternative to the pickle fork. There are lots of threads on this...

 

[Chevy305]

Reliability is more important than warranty on labor-intensive parts. That being said, I bought the Autozone LLT balljoints years ago and they haven't gone bad yet.

I just wanted to mention that you can build the spanner tool by cutting up a socket, but I forget which size you need. Also, the ball joint press can be used on the joints while still connected to the axle/knuckle, so that is an alternative to the pickle fork. There are lots of threads on this...

Ya good point... but whatever i already opened the plastic on them.

I picked out an old spark plug socket that i will grind down today it think its a 13/16"

 

[abig84]

the way i always do it, not sure if its been said, is use two tie rod spliting forks on each ball joint, pound them suckers in there and then beat the hell out of that top one