If you have ever repaired thread check in

[blazinzuk]

Okay this is the last time for this crap. I once again stripped the holes in the transmission, this is a new trans so I want to fix it once and for all. I have used heli coils before it seems they are the low end of thread repair. I would like to get something local. We usually don't have much of a selection.

If I use heli coils where would I get them for a good quality one? Do you use loctite on the outside of the heli coil?

What are my other options (thread serts etc) and what big chain stores have you seen carry them.

Next question off of thread repair, I am going to build another crossmember and use a trans mount off a car for the rear of the case. Will this stress this area of the case too much? I will basically build a suround for the round part of the tail housing. So I am talking about the very end of the case I have a 203 and it has a cast iron tailhousing. What about welding the mount onto the tailhousing. I know I know its hard to weld to cast but I have done it before succesfully. I appreciate all your help I am at my wits end with this crap, this has happened to me on 2 different occasions which is two to many for me.

 

[fabjunkie]

I would just helicoil. I've never used threadlocker on them, but I guess it wouldn't hurt.

 

[ntsqd]

My first question is why are they stripping?

Helicoils are good, Time-sert's and Keen-serts are better, but both need more metal aorund the hole than a Helicoil does.

Helicoils are designed to be self-locking, that's why they wind-up a bit on install. I don't see thread locker being much help. Some also have a feature to lock the bolt as well.

 

[theperfectgarage]

Heli-coil is the brand I use, I've never used thread locker on 'em though. I don't know what to say about the x member welded to the t- case other then that is not something I would do... every custom situation is different.

 

[Slapperbar]

Quit using air tools/ wookie arm to put sheaat in aluminum.

 

[Cricket]

I drilled mine out and used heli-coil with loctite.

 

[vortec]

if i have enough metal to work with, i just drill and tap the hole and use a bigger bolt. simpler, and i haven't had any problems resulting from it.

 

[SchnorrCS]

if i have enough metal to work with, i just drill and tap the hole and use a bigger bolt. simpler, and i haven't had any problems resulting from it.

x2. Also, get a torque wrench. Alum is easssysyyyyyyyyyy to strip out. Big Time. Just guess how I know.......

 

[79Beast]

Drill out the aluminum and tap it for the next bigger size. Also, use 1/64th smaller drill than what the tap size calls for. You'll have tighter threads that way. Also, the main reason you're stripping the threads is that the bolts are working loose. Next time, tighten them, then check them every few runs to see how they do. Threadlocker is great, but the hole has to be clean.

 

[Jishory]

i got helicoil from napa, its a pita but you cant deny it works good when its done properly

 

[blazinzuk]

Well it wasn't my big wookie arms and I torqued them to spec but I am an idiot and didn't put the brace on. Even with the brace on they will strip eventually, how do I know, cause they have. I don't think I want to tap to the next bigger size I still have aluminum threads. I think the helicoil is the route to go cause I can't find anything else around here locally. Thanks guys

 

[blazinzuk]

I don't know what to say about the x member welded to the t- case other then that is not something I would do... every custom situation is different.

Actually the x member wasn't going to welded to the t-case the mounting bracket (well just half of it) was going to be welded to the t-case. Although I have decided thats a dumb idea as I really don't have the truly proper tools to weld to cast steel.

 

[DEMON44]

I've personally never had an issue with helicoils. Used them lots in aluminum, fixed is usually stronger than original.

 

[ryoken]

I've personally never had an issue with helicoils. Used them lots in aluminum, fixed is usually stronger than original.

I concur...

 

[Slapperbar]

Actually the Bubbleheads on this board may be able to corroborate this. On forward special stow plates made of T-6 we purposely put a Heilicoil in with thread locker because repeated in and out and torquing will strip those threads in a heartbeat.

 

[3 on the tree]

If your application allows, use studs and nuts instead of bolts. Much less chance of stripping the threads.

 

[tarussell]

I concur...

Heli-coils are great when used as designed with thread locker applied by the book.
I use them at work with 2.5" diameter studs torqued to 650 ft. lbs. and then clocked/rotated a 120* with hydraulics . My point is that it is more than O.K. in industrial applications when done correctly.

Tom

 

[ntsqd]

Actually the Bubbleheads on this board may be able to corroborate this. On forward special stow plates made of T-6 we purposely put a Heilicoil in with thread locker because repeated in and out and torquing will strip those threads in a heartbeat.

Not sure what a "Bubblehead" is, but that is pretty common in industry. When I worked at wilwood I was told to include a Time-sert in any aluminum production tooling where a clamping bolt was going to run in and out a lot. Time-serts not b/c Helicoils are bad, but b/c Time-serts use a larger male thread than Helicoils do, so they're even stronger than a Helicoil.