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Discussion in 'The Body Shop' started by handloader90, Jun 27, 2016.
Roll on? You first?
Probably, cheap and one color is my goal, I have to keep her classy you know!
I've done a roll on before on my 79 f100 I used to have, it didn't come out bad, I used the way wrong type of roller tho.
Yeah cheap is my goal too, if I have real money to spend it'll be on parts not paint. Lately I've been exploring regular spray painting and even if I were to spray it myself I'll have several hundred tied up in a gun, the paint, etc so the roll on option is looking better. I have a friend that paints cars but he mostly does show cars so he's avoiding the conversation.
Jim King wants to paint his K5 too, maybe we'll have to throw a paint party. LOL
You can buy a Horrible Freight hvlp self contained sprayer unit for a little bit of money and spray it - may come out better than a roller. Did that on my truck, only I used Behr... Yes the house paint and I've been told it looks decent.
I used house paint the first time I rolled it as well. Latex wasn't a good choice tho
Latex is a terrible paint for vehicles..I dont even like it on houses!..
Some previous owner used house latex flat blue paint on one of my garden tractors..looks like crap..
I have used oil based gloss enamel house paint like for floors and porches before and it came out well on some equipment,but you can buy better enamel paint at places like Tractor Supply intended for farm tractors and equipment for about the same price..
I like Rustoleum ,the only drawback is it takes a long time to dry--up to a few days to cure fully,especially in cooler or humid weather..
I have found adding anything to make it dry faster usually reduces the gloss,and makes it flatten after several months..
I've done the industrial enamel paint job two times so far. One with a roller and one with harbor freight hvlp gun. Basically a throw away.
Both were good but the sprayed paint job came out much, much nicer. I was working with a friend that owned a body shop helping out while he had a guy out on military leave. We cut the paint down with da sanders and applied a healthy coat of etching primer. Then sanded and wet sAnded the primer. Sprayed everything in his booth myself. Need to mention i suck at spraying large panels. I had some runs but I was able to wet sand them out after the fact. O e of those companies even makes an industrial clear coat.
Point is this. Get a cheap spray gun, mine was 15.00 on sale. Spray the paint and spend a LOT of time on prep and you will have a very nice finish. When the truck was done I got lots of favorable comments from customers at the body shop. No one had any idea it was enamel paint. After a couple weeks we buffed it out really well and waxed it with some of that high dollar performance carnuba wax. It was slick as hell.
Sanded the primer, thinned out the paint, and rolled on with foam rollers. Go thin on the coats! I did 2. There is some texture because I didn't thin it enough. I also didn't really prep a bunch to smooth out every thing. It looks decent enough for me.
Opinions please, is primer a must if the body has "good" paint still on it (good meaning not peeling, etc - just faded with hazy clear coat)? I have 5 hand sized spots that will get body work and will be primered but what about the other 99% of the body? Can I just sand the factory paint and roll over it?
That's what I planned on doing.
Most of the ones I've seen done, you just make sure the surface is good. No rust, scuff it up REAL good tack it down.
"tack it down" ?
I assume that means tack cloth used to wipe the surface off.
I was told primer makes the surface underneath all the same color so you don't have differences in paint once laid down because of the different colors underneath.
Yeah, tack cloth just because you're using cheaper paint doesn't mean you want to cheese out on prep.
Definitely wouldn't hurt if you wanted to do a primer/sealer to even out the base if it's all patchy- most people doing rustoleum are putting MANY light layers on and eventually you'll even out the color.
A primer may help the adhesion of the paint, but you probably have that covered with the sanding. Seems like oil-paint over old urethane or acrylic won't really have a chemical bond anyway. Generally when you've sanded into multiple layers of old paint and primer, you put down a sealer. Otherwise, the solvents in your new finish will lift the edges of certain layers and completely ruin all your work. I don't think that's a risk for Rustoleum, which is basically like wiping your truck down with mineral spirits. If you are cutting with acetone, it could be a concern, though.
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