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Input on Welding Up 14 Bolt FF Gears

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73k20

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Does anyone have any information on welding up my gears? I'd like to find something on the internet that I could print out. I saw an article in one of my magazines a year or so back, but I don't remember which on it was. Also if anyone has any other input or suggestions towards this project. Please let me know.

Who said size doesn't matter?
 
<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&amp;Board=blazer4x4&amp;Number=305186&amp;page=0&amp;view=collapsed&amp;sb=5&amp;o=&amp;part=>http://coloradok5.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&amp;Board=blazer4x4&amp;Number=305186&amp;page=0&amp;view=collapsed&amp;sb=5&amp;o=&amp;part=</a>

'84 K5

Chevy in my blood.
 
Send a pm to Muddin4fun. She just recently welded up a 14 bolt and took a bunch of pics and put together a web page for it. I don't know if she's finished tweaking the article or page yet but it couldn't hurt to ask...

Rene

<font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/project_T2> tRusty pics...</a>
 
Thanks alot "AZBlazeMan" That answered my question. It was said that I should weld my spider gears, but not to the carrier.

Who said size doesn't matter?
 
Here ya go!
smile.gif


<a target="_blank" href=http://www.bluefox.tv/~lara/weldedrear.html>Welded Spiders</a>

<font color=blue>Answers: $1, Short: $5, Correct: $25, dumb looks are still free.</font color=blue>

<a target="_blank" href=http://www.bluefox.tv/~lara>My Wonderful Site</a>
 
I like the way "muddin4fun" welded the spider gears. I didn't know that it could be done that way. http://www.bluefox.tv/~lara/weldedrear.html
I thought you had to weld the spider gears to eachother. That's pretty cool!
I do have an extra carrier and spider gears so . . .
Although I like her way. Would it be stronger for me to weld all the spider gears together along with welding them to the carrier.
I'm runnin' 39.5" Boggers and plan to be running 44's soon. So I need all the strength I can get.
See muddin4fun's site here http://www.bluefox.tv/~lara/ (Nice K5)

Who said size doesn't matter?
 
When I had my old rear, I welded the gears togerhter. That is the only way I would do it.

Guaranteed no slop what so ever, less chance of breaking.

Ken H.


'86 K5 in parts
1-ton 454 44 TSLs
 
WE have a shop truck with 44 inch hawgs and on lunch break we drive over cars. The truck has a welded rear. At first we welded inside of the teath, to act as stops. The first time out on the gas and the rear blew apart. The gears has a little bit of play not being welded to each other and that led to more play and more play untill they blew taking out the carrier. Next we replaced the entire center section and welded all the gears to each other and the case. No play at all and its been almost six months of 44 inch hawgs, crushing cars and street driving and no problem. We even changed the fluid and saw nothing to worry about. Bottom line putting stops in will help lock the gears but they can still move a little and thats all you need to make it go boom, so weld the hole thing up.
 
I agree with extrememblazer here... not welding the gears together is asking for problems. If they are not welded together, there is room for play, that WILL grow over time and eventually explode.

Ken H.


'86 K5 in parts
1-ton 454 44 TSLs
 
I welded all of the spiders/side gears together on mine because I was worried about the shock load that could be present when you just weld in the "stops". No problems since I did it in March of last year.
 
I dont think you need to weld them together if you fill up the voids enough. When I did it, I filled the voids just above the top of the gear teeth. This means that when I bolted them together, there was 0 play in the assembly. Now, Laras welds look to be well below the surface of the teeth, so there is a lot of room for play there. You just need to experiment with it. Id say fill the voids above the teeth and fit them together. If they dont fit, grind some of the weld of until they fit tight in there. Dont leave too much cause then the case wont bolt together correctly. If you do it right however, you will have no play at all.

82 K5, 6.2L Diesel, sm465, np205, 14 bolt welded, 8 lug 10 bolt lock right, 410 gears, 35" Mud Kings
SPEAK SOFTLY AND DRIVE A BIG TRUCK
 
i think you are wrong,
a bit of play is a good thing
detroits have tons of play and survive for a long time
no chance of warping when you do it the fill voids way

formerly 77chev
still a jerk though
 
I chose not to weld the entire assembly because I wasn't comfortable pouring that much heat into heat treated gears and the heat treated cross shaft. After 15,000 miles and several wheeling trips my 14 bolt has no more 'play' than when I welded it up over a year ago.

The point is that I'm quite comfortable with the way I chose to weld my dif, and i have no reason to believe that the way I did it is in any way inferior to welding it up solid. If you want to weld yours up solid...knock yourself out. I couldn't care less...

Rene

<font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/project_T2> tRusty pics...</a>
 
mj

A bit of play is not a good thing. It will eventually work itself into more and more play. You cannt even compare to a Detroit. IT works COMPLETELY differant than a welded rear does, in terms of the interals and such.

I have seen rear ends blow from not be welded correctly. To each his own.

Ken H.


'86 K5 in parts
1-ton 454 44 TSLs
 
mj

I am still confused on how you can think a bit of play would be a good thing?

Why do you think it is so important to get everything right when you set up gears? If they are not just right and a little sloppy, they break.

Ken H.


'86 K5 in parts
1-ton 454 44 TSLs
 
list the ways to mess up welding a dif.
welding the side gears to the carrier out of square, cant happen if you fill the voids
warp the carrier due to excessive heat, cant happen if you fill the voids
if an economical (price same or less then detroit locker) spool was available I would choose it over welding or detroit.

i dont see the difference between the operating clearance in a detroit or the sliding shift clutches in a manual tranny as compared to a few degrees of movement in the side/spider gears in a welded dif.
I would have to defer to a welder as to whether the posted examples have any/enough penetration to last, thoough the forces are pushing the weld into the gear not trying to tear it off so ???

formerly 77chev
still a jerk though
 
A Detroit Locker for a 14 Bolt is only $300 and uses the stock carrier.

'70 K-20 San Diego, CA
I know, I can't spell!
 
<blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr>

A little testy Rene?

<hr></blockquote>

Yeah...not sleeping much lately.

Rene

<font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/project_T2> tRusty pics...</a>
 
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