Installing ORD weld in frame repair kit

[supernaut]

I'm going to install ORD's weld in frame repair kit & steering box brace this weekend. I'm not a welder, so a friend is helping me with that part. A
few questions I thought of...

- When "V" grooving the cracks what kind of bit do I use? A cone shaped stone bit maybe?

- Should I drill a hole at the end of the longer cracksto make sure they stay terminated after the repair?

- When grinding the welds flush to the frame what kind of bit do I use? A sanding disc? What grit would you recommend?

- In the product reviews Steve Fox mentions buying longer grade 8 bolts to mount the steering box - I'm wondering what length(s) I should get
ahead of time so I've got a few sizes to choose from?

- Any other Gotchas you can think of ?

 

[odin]

Maybe Im just a hack.
When I repaired my frame about 17 years ago I didnt do Any of that.
I just made a plate, drilled a few holes in it took the box off, plug and perimeter welded it in place. Bolted the box back on and in all this time the bolts havent even loosened up.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

Groove all of the cracks, I used a cutting wheel on a 4.5" angle grinder. Drill holes at the end of each crack (1/8" will be fine). Weld the cracks up and grind them back down smooth.

Clamp the repair kit over the frame, you will have to use several c-clamps because the repair kit does not fit the frame perfectly. Weld it back up and you'll be good.

I don't know why you would need longer bolts but make sure the bolts used are grade 8

 

[supernaut]

Thanks for the tips guys

I think the reason for longer bolts is so that you still end up the same amount of threads on the bolt being used for torque and bolt stretch. It's probably more detail than is absolutley necessary but I tend to go that way.

 

[throttleissues]

Haven't seen it mentioned by anyone around here, but do not use lock washers against the frame. Most light vehicle mechanics don't even acknowledge it, but split or star washers can cause cracks in frame rails. They create stress risers by scoring the metal, and thats where cracks start when the frame flexes enough. In heavy trucks, this is well known, just thought I would pass it on.

 

[redneckdude]

Haven't seen it mentioned by anyone around here, but do not use lock washers against the frame. Most light vehicle mechanics don't even acknowledge it, but split or star washers can cause cracks in frame rails. They create stress risers by scoring the metal, and thats where cracks start when the frame flexes enough. In heavy trucks, this is well known, just thought I would pass it on.

never thought about that...but it makes perfect sense.

 

[ezoliver]

Don't really know why you would use lock washers anyway... They really don't do much. I have seen them cause more harm than good.

Use some threadlocker and torque to specs...

 

[supernaut]

Well we got it to the point where we are bolting the steering gear box on the newly reinforced frame. I think we might have stripped the gear box threads on at least one of the holes. We were trying to torque to the 65 ft. lb. spec but the bolts are too short so we probably weren't getting enough thread engagement. Ran out of time on Sunday and I'll make another run at it on Tuesday or Wednesay. I'll back that bolt out and see if it is stripped or what. Actually with grade 8 bolts it's probably the threads in the gear box that are stripped, eh? Either way checking for strippage is the next step methinks. Then I'll tap and die if I need to and try again with longer bolts. Where the hell do I get another steering gear box anyway? I may just replace the unit since mine leaks.

 

[TDAWG1]

I'd like to see some pics of this as I too have to fix my frame

 

[supernaut]

I forgot to take my camera to the repair but I got my friend to snap a few from his camera phone. I'll upload to this thread when he sends them to me. In the meantime this article here has better pics than I'll have and it has them at the right spots during the repair.

 

[TDAWG1]

Thanks

 

[Desert Yeti]

My steering box leaked when I started the frame repair too...the box casting was actually cracked due to being bolted to a cracked frame and then having the sh*t beat out of it I think. You might be in the same place.

If it leaks AND it's got some stripped threads, just get a different box. You have several options, and all of these prices very GREATLY depending on where you are in the country and who you know, but baseline:

Remanufactured from a chain parts store: $180
Junk yard: $60
New "performance" model: $250 and up

I bought a junkyard box with the "guarantee" of "if it leaks real bad, bring it back and I'll find ya another one in this pile." and bolted it on after the frame repair and it was perfect.

I used the stock length bolts too, with no problems (yet!), although getting one of them started was a royal PITA because the hole in the repair plate was just a TINY hair off and the damn thing wanted to cross thread because it got crooked going through the frame, then the plate, to the box. Is the one you think it stripped threaded all the way in or just barely started?

I agree with 38377k5 regarding the cracks... I used a cut-off wheel on a die grinder and then a 1/8 inch drill. It may be that this is all overkill, but it's only a couple of extra steps while you've got it all apart anyway...