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Instructions for DIY4X4 Shackle flip??

bnate

1/2 ton status
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Mar 6, 2004
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Just got a DIY4X4 shackle flip kit from Kert.

I didn't get any instructions or tips on installing, just the hardware.

I get the general idea of dropping tank, removing rivets (search and found tips on rivet removal), bolting on new and existing hardware, and then placing truck back down.

Anything I might have missed anything?
 
keep an eye on the brake line/shocks/parking brake cables. the may need to be repositioned or lenghtend. maybe bumpstops too if you like. and depending on height of lift watch the drive line angle and spline engagement.
 
It is pretty straight forward much like you already said. I did not have to drop my tank to get the backing plates in, I did however have to relocate the parking brake mount on the frame foward to allow the 2 cables to hook to the single cable that goes to the pedal.

Ira
 
There are two ways to install the DIY4X shackle flip. One way is for 52" springs, and the other for 56" springs. It is all just a matter of flipping the DIY4X spring hanger from one side of the frame to the other, depending on what length springs you have.

Also, you might want to get somebody to help you actually bolt the shackle flip spring hangers to the frame because Kurts shackle flip hangers are heavy beefy things, and it is difficult to hold the spring hanger in one hand (while lining it up with the frame holes), and try to thread in some bolts with the other.
 
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my burb's gas tank is gigantic, at extends all the way to the frame rails.. I wonder if I'll be able to get my skinny fingers up in there and slide the threaded plates in, so I can bolt the flip up, all without dropping the tank. Dropping the tank would not be my idea of fun.
 
James, burbs and blazers have the same size tank (with the exception of the 40 gallon tank) which extends further to the rear bumper.
 
Thanks guys. I'll re-read the ORD flip page.

Extra person sounds like a great idea. Note to self: buy lotsa beer for helpers.

Parking brake, fuel lines, brake lines all need to be checked for routing.

52's for now, thx. Switch sides when going to 56's, check.

I just noticed the exhaust routing too. Might have to go to exhaust dumps under the bed, just after the flowmasters. :cool:
 
I just noticed the exhaust routing too. Might have to go to exhaust dumps under the bed, just after the flowmasters.

That is something I forgot to mention. I had to get out my sawsall, and whack my tail pipe off, when I installed my DIY4X shackle flip because the rear leaf springs where going to hit the tail pipe. I just went to an exhaust shop, and had them put a turn down on my truck, just past the rear differential for $20.

shackleflip8nr.jpg
 
also just to add if you have a frame mounted trailer hitch you are going to need to either remove it or do some notching of the flip or the hitch.
 
that's freakin Beautiful.. I'm really drooling. I'm going to be glad when I'm not so busy with school and have some time to make some money. Do you have stock length shackles, or the 6" shackles? I'm gonna get the 6" ones I believe.

1-ton said:
That is something I forgot to mention. I had to get out my sawsall, and whack my tail pipe off, when I installed my DIY4X shackle flip because the rear leaf springs where going to hit the tail pipe. I just went to an exhaust shop, and had them put a turn down on my truck, just past the rear differential for $20.

shackleflip8nr.jpg
 
Oh ya, the receiver hitch on the frame :mad: Good call. The PO took a torch to the rear frame to fit a truck bumper, so I have some custom *thick* angle irons in there. I'll have to check those clearances too.

Thanks for mentioning...that would have been a surprise. Now I guess it's my excuse to get that rear bumper fully trussed and with the hitch built in.

Awesome "heads up". Many thanks to all!

Obviously, keep them comin' if you have more.....
 
I had to drop my reciever and my gas tank. Mak sure that its near empty (which is no trick) before you start. Makes things much easier.
 
Do you have stock length shackles, or the 6" shackles?

These are Kurts 4-1/2" shackles.

also just to add if you have a frame mounted trailer hitch you are going to need to either remove it or do some notching of the flip or the hitch.

That is another thing I forgot, as you can see by the picture I previously posted, I had to get my sawsall out again, and notch my Class-III trailor hitch.
 
Looks like everybody has got you covered.
 
dont forget, when installing, DO NOT torque the bolts on the springs or the shackles until you have the weight of the truck on them.
 
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