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Intolerable slip yoke issue. (np208)

Blue85 said:
You can have slip yoke on the T-case (stock) with a C/V joint in the shaft. Several here have done it. There are still other advantages to the SYE, but if the only issue is vibe, just C/V might work. It does hang a lot of extra weight off the back of the T-case.
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Good to know! & I would like to SYE my 208, but that sounds like a good job for when I pull my entire driveline to swap in my new engine.. Much easier than doing to under this old greasy thing anyways.. I really just want to drive it (WITH NO VIBES) honestly.. Summer is here and it sat for months on end during the winter.. So, who knows..

But, If I have to get my driveline shortened anyway, I will probably have them put a CV setup on.
 
4x4blaze said:
Good to know! & I would like to SYE my 208, but that sounds like a good job for when I pull my entire driveline to swap in my new engine.. Much easier than doing to under this old greasy thing anyways.. I really just want to drive it (WITH NO VIBES) honestly.. Summer is here and it sat for months on end during the winter.. So, who knows..

But, If I have to get my driveline shortened anyway, I will probably have them put a CV setup on.
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Now remember, you will have to re-shim the rear axle so the pinion points at the t-case output in order to get the correct measurment for a cv driveshaft.
 
K5wrench said:
You had the stock shaft lengthened before you got everything set up.
Dang.
I saved my stock driveshafts as "trail spares" and had new shafts made AFTER shimming and t-case lowering.
You could grab a stock shaft from a wrecking yard.
I think if i were you, i'd carefully take it for a spin on a flat section of road and see if the t-case drop even helped.
If it didn't, remove the drop and just live with the vibes until you do your 14bolt swap next year.
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Yeah, that's probably not a bad idea.. It just sounds so bad..... And drives me out of my mind.... I also have a couple road trips planned with it, and I dont feel like dealing with this the entire time... I'm in a sticky situation to say the least.... And unfortunately my 14 is nowhere near ready so it's not an option..
 
K5wrench said:
Now remember, you will have to re-shim the rear axle so the pinion points at the t-case output in order to get the correct measurment for a cv driveshaft.
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Currently have 6 degree shims under the axle. have a feeling I would be close if I flipped them around
 
4x4blaze said:
Currently have 6 degree shims under the axle. have a feeling I would be close if I flipped them around
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I would get that pinion right and give Tom Woods driveshaft a call.
They can make you a slipyoke cv.
Although they recommend an sye first.
They did a fantastic job on my driveshafts and shipping was very fast.
 
I'm definitely going to call Tom Woods when I get my CV made for my 14 bolt! But I only plan on having this shaft in a year or 2.. I have a local ITP truck parts near me, and I'm going to see if they can fit it up with a double cardan slip yoke.. I have almost 500 in driveshafts..... May as well light it on fire.... This truck is lucky that I love it....
 
Well I guess that's that! Hopefully 3rd times a charm.....:doah:Going to stop by the place tomorrow and see what they say & hopefully get my angles figured out this weekend.. Getting really burnt out of working on it, but hopefully it will all be worth it in the end.

A slip yoke CV it is....

& @obijuank5 tried to warn me.....:doah:
 
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How about a wrench in the spokes a little.

Make it 1350 and use a conversion joint a the axle side for now until you put a 14 bolt in it. Then you'll have a 1 ton driveshaft to go with your 1 ton axle.
 
For what its worth, and I know that we may be in different situations, I've wheeled the balls off my truck and driven it with no SYE for going on 8 years now with a 4 inch lift and shackle flip and never really had an issue. I am doing an SYE next month though.
 
I just put on a 3" lift and had the same exact issue. I lengthened the driveline, etc. The problem is conflicting angles (what ever that means). I read Tom Woods article and then I called Driveline Superstore. I took all the measurements and gave them to the shop. $675 and one week later a double cardan driveshaft arrived. I installed it, and I followed the advice of Tom Woods making sure the back of the transferase is as close to level as possible, and the rear end and driveshaft are close to the same angle (pumpkins pointing upward). I had to place a shim under the rear blocks to achieve the correct angle. Blazer now drives like a Cadillac. No noise or vibrations. In order to keep eliminate WRAP, I had a pair of trac bars made and installed. The problem we run into with Blazers is the short wheel base and short drive shaft. Jeeps are much worse. Look it up. I was going to go with the slip yoke eliminator, but decided against it. The cost was not worth it to me. Im glad I wen this route.
 
Well, flipped my 6* shims around, and they got my driveline perfectly in line for the cv shaft which is currently being made! Things like that never seem to work out. But the only thing I'm slightly concerned about is the shock mounts. Since the axle is on such an extreme angle, the front mount is much higher than the rear shock mount on the axle tube. As in the forwardmost shock is more compressed than the rear.
It's probably not a huge deal, but it bugs me. So, I was considering cutting off the shock mount an welding it on higher up the tube, but then I stumbled across these shock "extenders". Sure would be a lot easier than grinding and welding.. And if I ran just one on the rear shock, it would probably get both of the shock lengths pretty equal. What do you guys think. Thanks!

IMG_0862.PNG
 
And remember, yes, this more than likely is a bandaid, and not the correct way to fix this issue, but it will get me rolling! On my 14 bolt, I will weld the perches on at an angle, so I will not need shims or extenders.. Everything will be specifically made to fit my K5
 
swettysblazer said:
For what its worth, and I know that we may be in different situations, I've wheeled the balls off my truck and driven it with no SYE for going on 8 years now with a 4 inch lift and shackle flip and never really had an issue. I am doing an SYE next month though.
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Where are you getting SYE from?
 
Just a quick update! Installed my new CV slip yoke driveshaft.... And the vibrations gone! Truck feels just as it did before installing the lift!:saweet:
 
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