CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Is a 6" lift too much?

BADROC

Registered Member
Joined
Jun 11, 2011
Posts
59
Reaction score
0
Location
Houston, Texas
I've had several issues with my '88 K5. It's got 6" of lift and 38's on it. It eats CV joint for pass time, I'm being told that it's lifted too high. I don't understand this because I've seen trucks with WAY more lift. I've gone to two shops titled ' best in town ' by many yet when my buddy's dad ( whose owned his own speed shop since the 60's.) took a look at it, he informs me the rear shaft is in back wards and should be a straight shaft, not with a elbow joint at the front. I've been told by all parties that my " lift is too high ". Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 
Thats BS cause i had 20" of lift with a stock rear shaft in my k20 (the transfercase was dropped 2") only problem I had was the front shaft (had that custom made)

as long as your pinion angle is within a degree or 2 of your transfer case you should be fine.

mine rear survived because i had super stiff springs and my pinion angle was steep--not ideal but i had no vibrations) (i did not use a cv in my driveshaft)

I suggest taking your shaft to a driveshaft shop to check your joints, for vibrations, and proper angles.

are your u-joints in-sync with each other? if the u-joint at the pinion is not inline with the joints at the transfercase, you will have problems.

i personally prefer to use a driveshaft with one joint at each end

also btw. the 85' blazer in my avatar had a 6" lift with a NON CV rear shaft......problem free
 
6" is not too high, my guess would be improper pinion angle, out of balance/ bent d shaft, or something else other improperly installed or adjusted:D. The cardan joint should be a the t case end of the shaft, not down at the rear, and a straight shaft will vibrate more in a short wheel base rig then a cardan joint will.
Is you shaft long enough (:haha: sorry had to) , if it is too short it may not be engaging enough of the output shaft causing excessive movement and early joint death. Also crappy chinese u joints are not your friend with a lifted truck either.
 
I have three trucks with 6 inches or more of lift and have never had problems with them. Like another member said, you need to check your u joints to see if they are in sync or if the shaft is way out of balance. Also check to see that the yokes are not rubbing each other. And lastly, as said, check the pinion angle.:waytogo:
 
Thats BS cause i had 20" of lift with a stock rear shaft in my k20 (the transfercase was dropped 2") only problem I had was the front shaft (had that custom made)

as long as your pinion angle is within a degree or 2 of your transfer case you should be fine.

mine rear survived because i had super stiff springs and my pinion angle was steep--not ideal but i had no vibrations) (i did not use a cv in my driveshaft)

I suggest taking your shaft to a driveshaft shop to check your joints, for vibrations, and proper angles.

are your u-joints in-sync with each other? if the u-joint at the pinion is not inline with the joints at the transfercase, you will have problems.

i personally prefer to use a driveshaft with one joint at each end

also btw. the 85' blazer in my avatar had a 6" lift with a NON CV rear shaft......problem free


Well that's interesting, I. Was told that because the wheel base was so short the angles were too steep. I also asked about not having a CV joint and again told no by the drive line shop. WTF ? ! ?
 
thats wrong completely..they just dont want liability.. If you want to talk to my driveshaft guy (thats the only thing he does) he can point you in the right direction or give you good advise....

or i can call him for you..

my blazer had a short rear shaft..it was something like 36" long or so give or take a few inches, slip yoke and a single joint at each end.. I wheeled the wee out of it and never had one issue.

you use a CV joint or Dual cardan joint to split the angle in half for each joint to aleviate high angles. but a single joint i believe can go to 23 degrees before bind and work without issue (dont quote me on that number)

there feeding you crap
 
6" is not too high, my guess would be improper pinion angle, out of balance/ bent d shaft, or something else other improperly installed or adjusted:D. The cardan joint should be a the t case end of the shaft, not down at the rear, and a straight shaft will vibrate more in a short wheel base rig then a cardan joint will.
Is you shaft long enough (:haha: sorry had to) , if it is too short it may not be engaging enough of the output shaft causing excessive movement and early joint death. Also crappy chinese u joints are not your friend with a lifted truck either.

Well I always thought my shaft was long enough. Now I'm feeling inadequate. My guy says he needs to change the pinion angle to stop that knocking sound. So we'll soon see whats next !
 
switch to spicer, my guy says that the saginaw was not meant for any real angle
 
Well I always thought my shaft was long enough. Now I'm feeling inadequate. My guy says he needs to change the pinion angle to stop that knocking sound. So we'll soon see whats next !

Knocking sound?......that means that something is binding or hitting.
 
Top Bottom