beags86
Eastbound and Down
3/4 ton
CK5
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Is this a D44 or D60?
- Thread starter The Butcher
- Start date
T
tenderfoot
Guest
I thought '77 was last year for a dana44? My '78 has a 44 but no idea if it's stock. Probably not since it has locking hubs and a 203. What I want to know is how to tell the difference externally between a 14bff & 14bsf.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Huh, I'm not sure, I thought it was 79/80 it's doesn't matter to me regardless. Get a 60 and be done.
Got to look at the wheel.
Semi float:
Full float:
Full floaters have the 8 bolts to bolt in/remove the axle
Gotcha. Thanks.
re-posted to tell you what i already told you on id a 10 bolt over a dana
1/2s after 77 got the 10 bolt. Ive seen an 80 3/4 with a 44.
Yeah although 77-78 were crossover years and some trucks got what ever was on hand.
I have seen both in those years but not in 79
Well, I took her out to my buddy's ranch this past weekend so it could ferrry us back and forth to the deer blind. There is a creek that you have to go through to get back to the blind, and it was pretty soggy on the trail back there. Initially I wasn't sure if the 4 wheel drive was working, but after slinging some mud (and cow poo) off the front tires it appeared to be working. We never got stuck, but the power felt pretty anemic. I think the gear ratio in these axles must be 3.73 or something. All in all, it worked decent enough. We used some scrap laying around the yard to fab the steps, and I found out pretty quickly the diamond tread we used on top isn't going to cut it. It essentially became a shelf for all the mud to sit on. Going to change that out for expanded metal pretty soon. It also needs that transfer case mount swapped ASAP. I hope to do that in the next few weeks.
Oh, and the 20" cheapy light bar I got off Amazon and put in as a reverse light worked really well. The cow was certainly surprised by it!
Oh, and the 20" cheapy light bar I got off Amazon and put in as a reverse light worked really well. The cow was certainly surprised by it!
I got a request from @K5wrench for some pics of the top on this K5. So, here they are. It was installed by the original owner. They did a nice job with it. Of course, I had to promptly cut a hole in the back for a light bar and weld some tabs on the inside for lights on the sides (not seen in the pics).
I've never removed a top on a K5. I assume it's easy as undoing the bolts along the bottom rail, and around where it seals to the cab. I need to repaint this top now that I've cut holes in it and welded on light tabs. From the looks of it, it should be easy to remove by undoing the bolts along the rail. That would let me blast and paint this top properly. I loosened one of the bolts the other day, and it sort of felt like there must be a square nute or something underneath to anchor the bolt down. Are those nuts loose, but somehow captured so that if I do undue the bolts the nuts won't fall down/off? My concern is being able to get the top bolted back in place since I'm not exactly sure how the previous owner went about attaching it (other than what looks to be the obvious 4 bolts per side on the rail).
The nuts are captured in a loose little tray. If they used the stock holes and nuts they will stay there.
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tenderfoot
Guest
Yeah sometimes those little trays fail too so go easy on them.
So are they tough to realign to get it bolted back down, or do they stay in place pretty good?
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tenderfoot
Guest
They move around a little but stay in place.
If you have the original bolts with pointy head, you stick the head in and slide the nut into alignment
Thanks guys
After cutting holes in the custom rear topper to accomodate lights, it needed some paint. Front bumper needed paint as well after making modifications to it, so got that blasted, primed, and painted. My wife found a couple of holes in the roof of the cab while she was looking it over. Looks like maybe someone had put two holes in for different CB antennas. There were a couple of rust spots up there, and on the hood as well, so my guys bondo'ed it and started priming/painting. I didn't get a before shot of the roof, but the one I've included below is after bondo and primer. I decided against painting the whole truck for now, but won't be surprised if I decide to go ahead and do that after putting the hood back on. Depends on just how much of a difference there is in the paint at that point. Going to use the same paint on the bumpers, top, hood, and roof. It's a satin black industrial paint, so it might not be too far off the satin black that seems to be on the body already. One of my other guys is fabbing a rear tire carrier. Might think about adding a jerry can mount to it as well.
H20 Toie
1/2 ton status
Damn you need one ton axles just to hold up all that steel 
Haha, you got that right!Damn you need one ton axles just to hold up all that steel
Got the front bumper back on along with installing the winch and light bar. Hood got topcoat as well. Hope to get the hood on early next week along with the topper. Rear bumper/tire carrier got primed yesterday, but I didn't get a pic of them. Should be able to get those installed Tuesday or Wednesday of next week, and then it's time to address the leaking steering box, mushy/long travel brake pedal, and leaking transfer case. Need to revise the side steps too. Probably going to either get some bent up like my '90K5 has, or just bring these in a little closer to the frame and body and replace the diamond tread with expanded metal.
