What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Just a few wires left...

FYI on the ground, should be a buss bar on the upper portion of the kickpanel with grounds clipped to it from the factory. I routed any under dash grounds I had to add to that location.
Click to expand...

I think I found what you are talking about... I used that to ground the park/neutral switch, and the ALDL ground aswell.

Whats the deal with the "VSS" wire?
Click to expand...

There is a little port right next to where the speedo cable is in the bezel. The 85' had nothing in that port, but the 89' bezel has a plug coming from it going to a light blue box. It had a ground, a pink/black wire, and the VSS wire coming from it.

I don't know the pink/black wire went to exactly but it went to the fuse panel I think. It was bundled up with all those other wires that went there, so I assume that it got 12V power from the fuse panel.

The green, black, and red wires go to that port by the speedo cable, and lead down to the light blue box thing.

I took a couple of pictures to show the port (from the 85' bezel, but it is pretty much the same setup), and the little blue box.

101_0277modified.JPG

101_0276.JPG
 
My 89' sub was optioned out weird aswell though. It was an OPP truck, with many mis matched options. So this might've been a strange setup that they used...

Unless that is the norm.....
 
VSS was standard in application AFAIK.

The "port" on the back of the speedometer is on most all speedometers from 1982-1989. The VSS buffer (light blue, blue, yellow, or green colored) shown in the pic above has the optical "eye" attached to the end of the green red black wire bundle. That will fit ANY speedometer with the "port" shown in the picture, as long as the screw hole is threaded. That's all that holds the "eye" in place.

VSS needs ignition 12V and a ground, the last wire (brown usually) goes to pin A10 on the ECM. Another wire to cruise if present.
 
Pull it off the accessory terminals on the front of the fuse panel. Just get one of the locking connectors (that fits) from another vehicle and splice the power wire into that connector, then plug it in. Make sure it's ignition 12V, there are multiple feeds, batt 12V being the other common one up there.

I'd fuse it inline, unless you are planning on adding an auxilliary fuse panel for the stuff that you need to add.
 
Thanks Dorian. I didn't think that all of those open ports were active... I'm gonna make another trip to the wrecking today.
 
Make sure to get a bunch, and that they are different types. Those connectors are all keyed (if you didn't know) so you need the right connector for whatever source (ignition, batt, etc) you need to draw from.

If you've got to add a bunch of circuits that need fuses, it may be in your best bet to wire in an auxillary fuse panel now, so you don't have to run a ton of inline fuses. They are pretty cheap, if you can find one that allows separate power feeds for each fuse.
 
Okay. So I plugged in the tested computer I got from Dave today. The engine did not run any better. Maybe, just maybe a little worse.

I checked for codes, and got a code 51. PROM error.

Also when I was about to start it up, the CEL was flashing really fast. The junk yard computer did not do this at all... What's up??
 
Okay, so that tested computer never had the PROM in it. That solves that problem.:D

I went through all of the PROM chips I own.

The PROM that came in my scrap yard computer makes the truck run best, but that is hard to tell really...
The code I got off of it is ADUA 3470

The PROM I got from a computer off of EBAY makes the truck run awful... But again it's hard to read. But there was a strange clicking noise coming from inside the cab when I tried to run it.
The code is AKSF 1159

This last PROM is the original PROM for the engine. But I fried this one, and it's corresponding computer by hooking up the battery terminals backwards. It will not start the truck at all...
The code is ANLW 5469

The truck still runs best when you unplug the fuel pump fuse once it starts. And you can't really push on the pedal with out the engine wanting to stumble and die... Where is the fuel pump regulator on these TBI units?

I know they are built into the throttle body, but where exactly is that?? It seems like the engine is getting a butt load of fuel.
 
Clod_King said:
Okay, so that tested computer never had the PROM in it. That solves that problem.:D

This last PROM is the original PROM for the engine. But I fried this one, and it's corresponding computer by hooking up the battery terminals backwards. It will not start the truck at all...
The code is ANLW 5469
Click to expand...


I have the .bin file for ANLW 5469 ... but the when I tried attaching the .bin file I get a message the .bin file is an invalid attachment. I don't have the correct equipment to burn a 2732A chip. I have one maybe two blank 2732A chips left on the shelf. 2732A chips were discontinued in the mid 80's so finding good 2732A chips is a chore, but are still affordable at about $7.00 - $10.00 each. I might be able to get access to a 2732A chip burner ... I'll send a PM.

Maybe the people at Sinister Performance http://www.gmtuners.com/ will burn a ANLW 5469 chip for you. I have software that I can make some changes to the ANLW 5469 .bin to eliminate emissions and other stuff if you want?

dave w
 
The software I use to modify a PROM chip is available for a 30 day freeware trial period. Go to http://www.tunercat.com/ and click on the link to the download page. Download the "RT TUNER" software. The 7747 ECM is included in the 30 day freeware trial period. I can send an email with the ANLW 5469 .bin file as an attachment. With the Tuner Cats software, you can modify the PROM information yourself ... then send the modified .bin file to a chip burner!

dave w
 
Unplugging the fuel pump fuse should have NO bearing on how the engine runs. The fuel pump runs off of 12V (well, system voltage) no matter where it gets source voltage from.

I'm going to go out on a limb and say something is messed up with the wiring if pulling that fuse makes a difference. AFAIK that fuse actually kills power to the fuel pump, which means the vehicle WILL die.
 
AFAIK that fuse actually kills power to the fuel pump, which means the vehicle WILL die.
Click to expand...

Well this is what happens:

Start truck
Let it idle (it idles horribly by the way)
Smell copious amounts of fuel.
Unplug fuse to fuel pump.
Idle begins to smooth out, smell of fuel goes away.
Engine dies shortly afterwards.

But if I start the truck, and let it run with the fuel pump hooked up, at idles horribly, and won't start up again until you pull the fuse and crank it over till it starts. And again it runs well before it dies.

The difference in idle is night day when the fuse is pulled. The engine will idle perfectly once you pull that fuse... And I mean the way it used to idle before the swap. Just purrs.

Wouldn't that mean too much fuel? Once the fuse is pulled, the fuel pump turns off, and the AFM leans out, the engine runs perfectly. Plug the fuse back in, the AFM richens, and the engine runs like crapola.

And the whole time this is going on, I did not throw one code... Nothing.

I can send an email with the ANLW 5469 .bin file as an attachment.
Click to expand...

That would be very cool Dave. Thanks.
 
If the fuel pump loses power, the engine shuts off, period. There is no reservoir like a carb to supply fuel even if tank supply is cut off. The injectors rely on pressure to get fuel to the engine, without pressure, they don't work. If pressure is weak, the engine runs like crap. If pressure is too high, engine runs like crap.

But (properly working) the stock fuel pump only supplies roughly 13PSI. Any fuel delivery problems other than that criteria, have nothing to do with the fuel pump.
 
Okay, so I went to the scrap yard today, and pulled a throttle body off of the truck I nabbed the computer and chip from.

After I installed it the truck ran better, not great but better.

So I called up the guys at TBIchips.com and they told me that the chip I am using currently is for a 305. Apparently the 305 chips dump more fuel into the engine because the injectors are smaller. And that would explain why there was too much fuel getting in engine. And it also explains why the engine runs better with this throttle body. The injectors are smaller...

So I have them sending me the stock (original) chip for my setup. Hopefully that will clear some stuff up.

But (properly working) the stock fuel pump only supplies roughly 13PSI. Any fuel delivery problems other than that criteria, have nothing to do with the fuel pump.
Click to expand...

I am not running the stock pump. I have an inline setup made by Carter. The part # is P5001

The P5001 puts out 20 PSI.
Flow rate: 50 GPH
Click to expand...

Found that info on CK5 somewhere.
 
Ahh, that introduces yet another potential issue.

Since you had a mismatched setup, new PROM should make things a bunch better. GM used different injectors for good reason. :)
 
Ahh, that introduces yet another potential issue.

Since you had a mismatched setup, new PROM should make things a bunch better. GM used different injectors for good reason. :)
Click to expand...


Just a slightly off topic question, but what if I had injectors from a cop car... Would they dump more fuel into my engine? Or are 350 injectors the same across the board? (I have stock injectors, but I thought about trying these out)


And the fella at TBIchips.com is sending me the chip today. It will probably show up next week. Hopefully monday.



And I got my ALDL cable in the mail yesterday aswell. I need to get a DC to AC converter hooked up so I can drive and use my laptop, and I'll get some numbers on here. I don't know much about that stuff, but I am researching when I have down time.

I have winALDL, and TunerPro RT, and EFILive, but I don't know which one I should use.

I think I will stick to winALDL for it's simplicity for now... There is soooo much stuff to learn about using these programs it's mind boggling.....:eek1:
 
The basic difference I saw in the Cop Car PROM chip vs. the non-Cop Car PROM chip was the Base Pulse Width (BPW). So most likely unless there is a change the BPW, the Cop Car injectors will flow about the same as the standard injectors in Closed Loop.

WinALDL is a good, first to learn Data Logger. Once you get WinALDL working any of the other Data Loggers will be easy to get working.

dave w
 
Thanks Dave.


But I have a few questions... (yes more)

I have two wires coming out of the ALDL hookup that are not going to anything. It seems I forgot about them.

A tan/black wire, and a greyish wire. They both went off to the fuse panel with the dash board wire loom, and my donor vehicle has been towed away already, so I cannot go exploring.

Do I need these wires?? Will I still get the data logging? I'll try and get the pin locations for those wires.... I don't think the colors are very useful.
 
Okay so the grey wire is pin C, and the tan/black wire is pin E.

I also forgot to say that I cut wire A7 coming from the ECM. When I used the walkthrough on the Binder Forum, it said that wire wasn't used. I think it's used for the transmission anyways though, right?


Also my head lights aren't working. My running lights work fine, and I don't know about the brake lights, but definately not the head lights. Neither highs or lows.

I gotta call up the guy who sold it me. He said he had the same problem and fixed it. But it was probably a crappy bandaid fix. I mean this was before he sold me the truck, so I wouldn't expect any better.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom