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Just a few wires left...

My wiring diagram 89 C/K shows:
Pin A - Black wire / White stripe = GROUND
Pin B - White wire / Black stripe = ECM A9 DIAG INPUT
Pin C - Brown wire = Air Divert Switch and to ECM Pin C2 Air Divert Sol Ctrl
Pin D - Brown wire / White stripe = ECM A5 Service Engine Soon (SES) Indicator and is spliced into Instrument Cluster Brown wire / yellow stripe
Pin E - Orange wire = ECM A8 DIAGNOSTIC Enable In
Pin F - Tan wire / White stripe = Trans TCC Solenoid and kickdown relay and ECM A7 TCC/Shift Indicator
Pin G - Red wire and then spliced into Red wire / White stripe going to Fuel Pump Relay
Pin H - Light Blue / Black strip = RWAL Module

For Data Logging I think all that is needed is the Pin A, Pin E and Pin B.

dave w
Clod_King said:
Thanks Dave.


But I have a few questions... (yes more)

I have two wires coming out of the ALDL hookup that are not going to anything. It seems I forgot about them.

A tan/black wire, and a greyish wire. They both went off to the fuse panel with the dash board wire loom, and my donor vehicle has been towed away already, so I cannot go exploring.

Do I need these wires?? Will I still get the data logging? I'll try and get the pin locations for those wires.... I don't think the colors are very useful.
Click to expand...
 
Is something wrong if I only have 5 wires in the top row?? I mean I don't have anything in the bottom row at all...
 
I don't think anything is wrong ... the wiring diagram I have shows all the wires because different vehicles had different equipment.

dave w

Clod_King said:
Is something wrong if I only have 5 wires in the top row?? I mean I don't have anything in the bottom row at all...
Click to expand...
 
Injectors are rated in lbs/hr. If the lbs/hr rating is different for two injectors *and they are rated at the same PSI* (which GM ones are of course) then the fueling will be wrong if injector size isn't changed in the PROM.

Assuming it's not different than TPI of the same vintage, its as simple (in the chip) as changing the injector lb/hr rating from X to Y. However, if not done, the computer will compensate as much as possible to try and pull back fuel. However when in open loop or WOT, fueling will be all sorts of wrong, since the ECM is using the stock lb/hr rating to determine how much fuel is being dumped.

Higher lb/hr injector with stock PROM=too much fuel, and vise versa.
 
Okay, so would it be easier to work with a cop injector PROM, and adjust the rest of the stuff (if needed), or to work with your proper PROM, and adjust the fuel mapping?

Also, just news to you guys, I have gone through my wire splices, and soldered them, and heat shrinked them. I'm happy that crap is done. I'm also happy my engine has a fan now, and the alternator is hooked up.

I need that chip to finish up this truck! :eek1::mad::eek1:
 
I think it would be easy to get what you have running correctly ... then if you decide to tweak for some performance with the Cop Injectors, then adjust the PROM you have working correctly to the Cop Injectors.

dave w
 
Agree to that. Change in injector size would probably be easiest, but get what you have working right first.
 
Oh yeah most definately! I wouldn't change anything until I get this setup working. My brain hurts enough as it is...


I'm still waiting for the chip to come in. I have nothing new to tell you guys yet. And apparently I can't get a tracking number either. I don't know how they sent it either. I mean it's getting shipped through USPS, and then through Canada Post once it hits the border, but I don't know whether it's an envelope, or a box. Maybe that makes a difference...

But I did get my head lights working. It was a bad connection at the light themselves. A little steel wool and some scarpers and they work again.
 
I've gotten into the habit of adding dielectric grease to every electrical connection I have to clean up. Some of the connections once cleaned, foul very quickly in use unprotected.
 
Okay so I got my chip in today, and installed it.

I ran it with the 305 throttle body on it, and it ran great. Just like it used to run.

So I switch the throttle bodies to the original one, and it ran like crap. Absolute poo poo...

So I removed the injector pod thingy from the 305 TB, and swapped out the 350 injector pod, and it ran great again. Good throttle responce, and everything.

So I turned off the truck, and hooked up my laptop. Then I started to datalog for fun. Everything was working great, and then sh!t hit the fan...


The engine sounded like it was running good, but the fuel pump went from silent, to screaming! I mean loud as hell....

I've never run an inline frame mounted pump before. Are they supposed to be this loud??

I also only have a 15amp fuse plugged for the fuel pump, should it be higher or lower? And could the fuse be the cause of this problem? I mean the pump got LOUD...

And when using WINALDL, can you only save the tables that you check off in the "datalogger" box?? Because I cannot seem to save anything other than the sensor data. And that was the only box I checked off...

I need help fast... I have two days left....
 
Fuse isn't going to matter. Too low would just pop. If its what was called for, good to go. Never over-fuse.

Can't help on the pump. Don't like externals (welcome to that world :)) but since it was quiet before then got really loud, sounds like something is wrong. Did you already mention tank condition? Only thing I can think of is that it is having to work harder now, as something might be plugging the pickup? (or the pickup itself is leaking)

winALDL user will have to help you with that. I know on tunerproRT (my personal favorite) it's all saved on a spreadsheet, you can modify as you see fit.
 
Okay so I talked to a tech from the phone number on the box of the pump. He told me to rotate the pump so the plug was facing up. I geuss if it's facing any other way, it doesn't self lubricate.

So I did that. And I also removed the ground cable, and cleaned that up too. Although it didn't need any cleaning....

When I started it back up again the engine was searching for good spot to idle. And when the pump started making noise, the engines idle smoothed out. But but wasn't as loud this time.

I've read in certain threads that these external style pumps make a decent amount noise. I don't remember if it was this exact brand of pump, but the guy was trying to shut it up because he could hear it in the cab. Maybe it's supposed to make sounds... I'm gonna call them up again tomorrow. Ask if there should be any sound at all.
 
My dad had an external for awhile on his (low pressure Holley blue or something) and it was noisy. Not the high pitched whine like my in-tank pump as I recall, but just noisy in general.
 
I think if I could count fast enough, I count calaulate the RPM on my pump. That's what mine sounds like. You can pretty much make out every little stroke of that pumpy thing (don't know how it pumps... whether it's a piston, or diaphgam style, or what).

I think it's normal... Maybe a little abnormal, but if it lasts to the shop to get a safety, then that's good enough for me. Well good enough right now I geuss....
 
My laptop placed the WinALDL logs here - C:\Documents and Settings

dave w

winaldl location.jpg
 
Sorry I haven't posted back. I went to my buddies cottage from thursday to today. It was the most bittersweet time of my life. But I do have an update.

I took the truck out for a spin. Yeah I actually drove it. I think it was under a kilometer total round trip.

I went from a half tank to a quarter tank. Well, apparently I did. My brother said I had a half tank when I left, but I never checked.

But the truck did drive. So I thought that was a plus. But the engine was acting funny, and made a ticking sound every couple seconds. Maybe one every ten seconds. And then I got the engine light...

I haven't checked that out yet. I never had time. I got out of the truck, and started to clean up, and pack up for the cottage.

I cannot take the original injector pod apart just yet. I don't hav a torques screw driver set. Just the socket set, and I cannot get those betties to fit. The angle is all wrong. So hopefully I can get a set tomorrow. If I can find a set locally that is.
 
I got a code 44. Oxygen sensor lean.

I have the 305 injectors in there still because the truck will not run with the 350 injectors.

I don't get it...

I'm gonna try swapping the 350 injectors only. Not the whole throttle body, or the injector pod thing. Just injectors.

Wait. Does a 305 use a different setting on the fuel regulator??
 
Killer! I found out the problem.

I let my dad plumb the fuel lines because he did such a good job on the burb. And he evidently plumbed the the send and return lines backwards. I just checked it, and found that out.

I should've checked it earlier but that's what it is. I'm sure that is what has been causing these problems....
 
So okay. I thought I had this finally figured out....

We switch the lines, and put the 350 injectors back in. The truck will kind of start, but then stop. This is getting a little rediculous.

The passenger side of the throttle body is the inlet correct? Or is it the driver side?
 
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