just a random thought on 10b/d44's

[TheBeast_88K5]

No... Its 3 versions of the calipers that dont fit 15's up front.
'77 K20 Calipers clear 15's, front and back. (Back, as in Disc Swapped 14b's.)

 

[79rustyk10]

For the rear find a 6 lug SF 14 bolt from a 90s chev, and replace the spring perches.

Best of both worlds.

 

[big dan]

No... Its 3 versions of the calipers that dont fit 15's up front.
'77 K20 Calipers clear 15's, front and back. (Back, as in Disc Swapped 14b's.)

I think this is dependent on wheels or does the '77 use different caliper brackets?

Ive had 15x10 wheels on 4 different k20s, '74, '79, '84, and '85 and all of the them required grinding, and not just the caliper, I had grind the brackets too.

Never had a problem with the rear discs though, same wheels fit the rear without having to grind calipers or brackets (diy4x brackets by the way.)

 

[Irish1941]

For the rear find a 6 lug SF 14 bolt from a 90s chev, and replace the spring perches.

Best of both worlds.

Yep...6 lug 14 SF are cool but those 88-98 rears are hard to find and pretty pricey when you do find one.
Here is an easy way:
-Use a '84-91 8 lug 14 SF from a Sub or pickup to '87. No perches or shock mounts to change. 3.73 & 4.10s are most common. There was a 4.56 gear option listed for '89-'91 Subs but I've never found one.
-Grab axle shafts from '88-'98 4x4 6 lug 14 SF along with loaded backing plates and drums from same truck. Swap metric lug studs to 1/2-20.
-Add a pair of $20 1/2" spacers behind the backing plates.
-Swap 10 bolt yoke to 14SF or use a conversion 1310/1350 u-joint.
-Bolt it in your truck. Done.
One 14SF with 6 lug axles with same track width as front axle.
Think I have $350 in my current rear diff with all new brakes, aftermarket axles, seals, and bearings.
Built a few of them this way.

 

[shady]

I'm not afraid to fab but isn't a k20 in them early years gonna have a different track width/ different shaft length. if I can find the one to take the shafts out of..... why don't I grab the whole axle and be done

 

[imiceman44]

I'm not afraid to fab but isn't a k20 in them early years gonna have a different track width/ different shaft length. if I can find the one to take the shafts out of..... why don't I grab the whole axle and be done

What I am thinking...

 

[big dan]

I'm not afraid to fab but isn't a k20 in them early years gonna have a different track width/ different shaft length. if I can find the one to take the shafts out of..... why don't I grab the whole axle and be done

Ive seen new 6 lug shafts on ebay for like $80 each. If you already had the 8 lug housing it would be simple, otherwise I agree with just finding one that's already 6 lug and swapping the whole housing. Its not any harder to move the perches then tear the axle down to swap shafts.

There are a couple different length 6 lug shafts though, one is a little shorter and one is a little longer than the 8 lug but that may be what the 1/2" spacers are for that Irish1941 mentioned.

 

[Irish1941]

Guess I shoulda been more clear.
The '84-'91 K20/14SF rear is narrow just like a 10 bolt rear.
And yes sir that is what the spacer is for. You use the 88-98 4x4 axle shaft and push the backing plate out 1/2". Then brake shoes meet the drum just like the 88-98 diff. The 2wd axles are short ones.
Brakes from 6 lug 2wd to 6 lug 4wd are the same and also same as 10 bolt.
The '82-'83 14SF used different (shallow) brakes and you can do it without a spacer according to my measurements. I have yet to get my hands on one of those to make absolutely sure.

The spacer combined with 88-98 brake drum, it works out to be on the money to match the front 10 bolt. 3" wider than rear 10 bolt.

Im all for fabbing stuff but I can screw together a diff quicker than the time it takes to find a good later 6 lug 14SF with gear I want, cut off, clean, set up perches/shock mounts and zap new ones on straight.
Those early 8 lug SF rears are just about free and everywhere. It's the same diff minus axle shafts and brakes. The 88-98 6 lug 4x4 14SF are going anywhere from $200 to $600 when you can find one and you still have to do brakes, seals and cut/weld it.
Even with new axles shafts, it's still cheaper to screw it together.
I'll take quicker and cheaper.