Ive got to make up my mind about my drivetrain. I either need to remove my np205 and put a 241 back in or put in a sm465. How much shorter is the sm465 than a 700r4/4l60? Either would require a new rear driveshaft right?
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
k5 drivetrain-help me make up my mind
- Thread starter solace22
- Start date
72blazerguy
3/4 ton status
What setup are you starting with? Those are way different setups.
I would go 700r4/241 or el60 as you mention. I will never install another tranny without an overdrive.
I would go 700r4/241 or el60 as you mention. I will never install another tranny without an overdrive.
current setup is 350, 700r4/4l60 (arent they the same?), 205. its a 90 truck and not getting vss input. instead of trying to "customize" my 205 to give the vss i need i figure i can put the transfer case it came with back in or swap a manual.
The one tons '90-91 got the VSS 205's, but they are pretty rare. I've got one now, but intend to swap to the 241.
The 241 is rated for more input (gasp) it's got better low range, and it's a lot lighter. Of course they are all slip yokes so that is another ~$400 if you want to remove that, but the benefits of the 241 outweigh the downside IMO.
The 241 is rated for more input (gasp) it's got better low range, and it's a lot lighter. Of course they are all slip yokes so that is another ~$400 if you want to remove that, but the benefits of the 241 outweigh the downside IMO.
I think just swapping the case would be easier than going manual. Will I need an adapters or anything else? Is there much length difference between the 205 and 241?
241 with slip yoke vs a 205 with a fixed yoke is probably quite a bit of difference. A bit being relative.
In any case, if one is slip yoke and one is not, you'll need a new/rebuilt shaft.
Adapter is necessary for sure. I assume the 208/241 adapters from 1985+ are all the same. I would also assume the 1981-1984 208 adapters would fit work with the older crossmember if you were trying to run a 241 with the "old" style flat crossmember.
In any case, if one is slip yoke and one is not, you'll need a new/rebuilt shaft.
Adapter is necessary for sure. I assume the 208/241 adapters from 1985+ are all the same. I would also assume the 1981-1984 208 adapters would fit work with the older crossmember if you were trying to run a 241 with the "old" style flat crossmember.
I think I'm going to have to make a parts list.
Good thing is the 700/4L60 with 241 combo's are still pretty common to find in the '89-91 Suburbans. At least those are the only '89-91's I'm seeing around for parts, no K5's as of late.
If you find one with drivetrain intact, assuming you have a shorter wheelbase truck, the driveshaft could be taken and cut down, and it would have all the rest of the components I can imagine you'd need.
Last couple of 241's I picked up were ~$100 each for reference.
If you find one with drivetrain intact, assuming you have a shorter wheelbase truck, the driveshaft could be taken and cut down, and it would have all the rest of the components I can imagine you'd need.
Last couple of 241's I picked up were ~$100 each for reference.
Alright let's start my list:
np241- passenger side drop, right?
from what model/year vehicle would be ideal?
I'm guessing the crossmember is "factory" would keeping it make the swap simpler?
Driveshafts- I am not going to be able to customize anything. So I'll have to buy either a factory one or have one made. The cheaper option is preferred here. I'll need a front and rear right?
Adapters- what vehicle make/model do I need to look for? 85+ 4wd and an auto right?
np241- passenger side drop, right?
from what model/year vehicle would be ideal?
I'm guessing the crossmember is "factory" would keeping it make the swap simpler?
Driveshafts- I am not going to be able to customize anything. So I'll have to buy either a factory one or have one made. The cheaper option is preferred here. I'll need a front and rear right?
Adapters- what vehicle make/model do I need to look for? 85+ 4wd and an auto right?
there are a few easy ways to get VSS on NP 205.
this may be the cheapest:
http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/SpeedSensors_Speedometer.html
I've seen those and considered it in the beginning. Just not sure which to get or if it truly would work or not.
yea, I D&T the housing for a factory sensor and installed the tone ring in my doubler, but here is a thread where a couple of guys are using the Jags thingies
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/chevy/770136-how-do-i-put-vss-sm465-np205.html
looks like the 2PRS part number is the one
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/chevy/770136-how-do-i-put-vss-sm465-np205.html
looks like the 2PRS part number is the one
I may just do that. do I have to get anything reprogrammed so to speak? Do you have a pic of what to do with the two wires?
Yes to passenger drop.
Ideal depends on what you need. Mechancial speedometer is '89 only. Electronic speedometer/VSS on the case is '90-91. AFAIK same in all regards, just VSS or not.
Crossmembers for all 1985-91 trucks are interchangeable, so yes easier.
Cheapest option is to find exactly what you need. That is likely to be impossible. The fronts are the same 1/2 and 3/4 ton regardless of truck, suburban, etc., the rear is different. Fronts are usually garbage because people don't lube them. Having a shop shorten a shaft is not an expensive proposition.
Adapter needs to be for your drivetrain. 700 and 208/241, and '85+ if that is the adapter style you are running.
Ideal depends on what you need. Mechancial speedometer is '89 only. Electronic speedometer/VSS on the case is '90-91. AFAIK same in all regards, just VSS or not.
Crossmembers for all 1985-91 trucks are interchangeable, so yes easier.
Cheapest option is to find exactly what you need. That is likely to be impossible. The fronts are the same 1/2 and 3/4 ton regardless of truck, suburban, etc., the rear is different. Fronts are usually garbage because people don't lube them. Having a shop shorten a shaft is not an expensive proposition.
Adapter needs to be for your drivetrain. 700 and 208/241, and '85+ if that is the adapter style you are running.
the wires connect to the harness where the stock VSS sensor would plug in. looks like you have to cut the connector and butt splice the wires.
the only programming I had to do is to get the speedo to read correctly when I changed diff ratios and tire size. I bought a modified DRAC card from SweetK30 here that can be adjusted to provide accurate speedo readings.
That all makes perfect sense to me. My biggest goal is getting the transmission working right. Without the VSS it is driveable but it's not ideal. Anything past 1/4 throttle and it delays between shifts really bad. It also tries to keep the converter locked up. Anyhow. This is a very tempting fix. Ive got alot of other things I need straight on it and with kiddo #3 due in april I don't have much spare $. Truly appreciate your and everyone else's help.
Getting ready to pull the trigger on the Jags that run part. do you guys really think it will solve my issue? Basically I just need the transmission back to normal and I don't think I can get that without at least having the VSS working. The transmission doesn't seem to have any issues except shifting under anything other than 1/4 throtte, and as I understand it is a symptom of not having a VSS hooked up.
if I leave the harness plugged in it tries to go into overdrive way too soon. Like 1,2, overdrive.
if I unplug it I have no overdrive/converter lockup but 1,2,3 seem to shift like it is supposed to.
Both ways have long delays between shifts if too much throttle.
if I leave the harness plugged in it tries to go into overdrive way too soon. Like 1,2, overdrive.
if I unplug it I have no overdrive/converter lockup but 1,2,3 seem to shift like it is supposed to.
Both ways have long delays between shifts if too much throttle.
A TH700R4/4L60 is not electronically shifted. I think you are barking up the wrong tree.
Martin
Martin
That is true but alot of issues I'm having have to do with the vss. The truck sometimes dies coming to a stop, idle surges etc. With that said, what does the connector that I'm plugging in or unplugging do? It's something electronic. Thanks for your input!
Just controls the lockup torque converter.
Martin
Martin
