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Lets talk about diesel swaps...

SierraClassic said:
While I personally have no problems with the Detroit 6.2 / 6.5s I personally would not bother swapping one into a tow rig. Those engines are light duty diesels that are designed to be good mileage getters, not workhorses. They'd have a much better reputation if they were installed into some of the lighter more aerodynamic mid 80's cars instead.

If I was to do a diesel swap, I'd probally go with a 5.9 Cummins myself. While a newer PowerStroke, or Duramax would be very cool, and would perform very well as they do in the new trucks, they are far more complicated, and far more expensive than the older 5.9 Cummins diesels are.

Installing a 5.9 does take a bit of work though. Couple of problems associated:

1. Firewall to engine clearance -- The 5.9 is a very big engine, and you will either need to "customize" your firewall with a big hammer, or put a 3" body lift on.
2. Oil pan to engine crossmember clearance -- The 5.9's oil pan contacts the front crossmember on your truck, and the pulleys sit very close too. You'll etiher need to make a custom engine crossmember, or buy an aftermarket oil pan of some sort.
3. The 5.9 needs a big radiator to keep cool -- This means you'll need to do some significant modifications to your rad support to pack both the rad, and the intercooler in.
4. The 5.9 is an extremely heavy engine -- They weigh close to 1000 lbs, while most small blocks weigh closer to 300 - 400 lbs tops. You will absolutely have to upgrade your front suspension to accomodate. Think D60 + add-a-leaves
5. If you are running AC, you'll need to move the AC compressor from the bottom of the engine to the top of the engine using an industrial tractor bracket that is available
6. You will need to switch to hydroboost brakes, as a diesel engine produces no vaccum, and a vaccum pump will not keep up with braking demands
7. Wiring -- you'll need to run the glow plug controller, and if you get a 94 or newer Cummins, you'll need to hook up the ECM stuff for the electronic injection
8. Transmission -- you'll need to either find an adapter to hook the Chevy engine / transmission up, or you'll need to run the Dodge transmission + t-case
9. Fuel system -- you'll need to find / buy a new Diesel fuel tank. Your gasoline tank has a galvanizing coating inside which will be broken down by the diesel and plated onto the inside of your 600 dollar IP, effectively ruining it
10. Exhaust -- You want very free flowing exhaust for any diesel, so expect to spend a fair bit of money on a big diameter mandrel bent exhaust system to provide as much.
11. Engine Mounts -- There are a number of companies / individuals out there that you can buy pre-made conversion mounts that either mount to your stock chevy engine mount faces, or even use the factory chevy style engine mount.

Buy a complete, running donor vehicle. Nothing sucks worse than getting nickled and dimed to death on small stuff that doesn't come with a "complete" engine / tranny setup that you buy seperate from a donor vehicle. This is a lesson I learned the hard way swapping a TPI setup into my truck...

If I ever find a cheap 5.9/NV4500 truck, I'd definitely consider this swap, but would be expecting to spend at least 4 - 5000 on the swap, not including the donor truck... Some guys get it done for as little as 2500, including the donor, but I wouldn't count on it for sure! Some guys have spent over 10k getting it done, but usually they get someone else to do it for them...

So, in short, do your research before you leap headfirst into anything. Its all very possible, and lots of people have done these swaps before you, so learn from their discoveries / mistakes, and you'll do it for the best price possible. Also, take any estimate of cost, and triple it, and think if you're still willing to go for it or not. Maybe you'll be correct in your estimate, but usually that isn't the case.

Well I do Cummins conversion all the time.
So let set the facts straight!!!!!

1.) No body lift or firewall mod are needed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
2.) Yes the engine crossmember will have to be replaced with a new one which I make! (73-91 ) staight axle trucks.
3.) The Cummins does't need a big radiator to be kept COOL,a two core radiator run about 180* when not pulling a trailer and even then it never goes past 195*!!!!
4.) The front springs will sag about 1 1/4 lower because of the weight.
5.) 89-98.5 Cummins are all manual ,you will not need the ECM to run! After 98.5 24V then yes you'll need the ECM .
6.) The trans if going manual just get a chevy Nv4500 96-2000 and unbolt the chevy input shaft and install a dodge input that way you can use a chevy 32 spline Np205 which bolts right up .All Nv4500 Chevy & dodge after 96 are all the same!
7.) If going a auto use a dodge 47rh ,Allison,or ya can use a 4l80e which will work but it take around $6500.00 to make it last.Then you have to use the P-30 adater which tilts the engine 10* to the right which looks bad.
8.) Engine mounts (I make) will be needed as well.If going to use a p-30 adapter new mounts will have to be made to work because of the tilt.
I'm in the stages of making a new adapter so that the tilt goes away.
9. Exhaust 73-91 straight axle trucks with a 205 t-case 3'' from turbo past the t-case then 4''.

I would go with a 12Valve ,there is power there for free,Plus you can get more power for the buck.

Also look at the our diesel form for more info.I have pics post of my Crewcab
I can send pics to anyone that's needs to see work on the 88-99 IFS truck.

Thanks
CrewCab59
 
I somewhat agree with ColbyStevens. The Cummins and 6.2 aren't even on the same map, the Cummins is leaps and bounds ahead of it. One is a towing machine that can make 900HP on a stock long block, the other was made to stay under 200HP and try to get some decent mileage, which on top of that still isn't as good as the 'ol 5.9....:D
 
Crewcab59 you have a PM :). Been thinking about this for a long time. '94 12V into an '84 K30 dually (currently with a th400/205/GV OD). How long would it take for an experienced mechanic to have it on the road (assuming all parts are on hand) in your opinion?

Harley, sounds like your talking about my dually :)
 
I did my first conversion in 60 hours,A good tech with all the parts on hand can do a conversion in that time ,now that not doing detail work and doing extra stuff.In the that time you'll be able to drive the truck.

A complete conversion and making it look like it was factory it will take about 120 hours.

Thanks
CrewCab59
 
FWP said:
Crewcab59 you have a PM :). Been thinking about this for a long time. '94 12V into an '84 K30 dually (currently with a th400/205/GV OD). How long would it take for an experienced mechanic to have it on the road (assuming all parts are on hand) in your opinion?

Harley, sounds like your talking about my dually :)

I sent you a PM .

Thanks
CrewCab59
 
So here is a donor truck that I am considering...

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=199228463&dealer_id=57674848&car_year=1996&mod_bookmark_id=null&search_type=both&num_records=25&make=DODGE&transmission=Automatic&distance=300&make3=&model=RAM25002WD&address=97370&make2=DODGE&advanced=y&certified=&model2=RAM3502WD&max_mileage=&max_price=&bkms=1157667654393&sort_type=priceASC&min_price=&end_year=1998&color=&start_year=1989&drive=4+wheel+drive&engine=&body_style=TRUCKS&doors=&fuel=Diesel〈=en&cardist=209

Which brings up a few questions.

1. Do I want to get a 4wd or 2wd truck? I ask this because I want to use the 47rh auto trans, but I want to eventually put a 203/205 Dual T-case setup behind it. Which trans is most condusive to this upgrade? AND... What adapters will I need and where will I get them?

2. Does mileage really matter? I know it matters, but on this engine does it really matter at long as it is under 300K?

3. What parts are most important to get on my donor truck? Are there items that are a must to get in the swap or it just ain't worth it? For instance is the injector pump $5000 and if it's busted then the rest of the truck ain't worth the price of it's paint?
 
bigbluesuburban said:
So here is a donor truck that I am considering...

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=199228463&dealer_id=57674848&car_year=1996&mod_bookmark_id=null&search_type=both&num_records=25&make=DODGE&transmission=Automatic&distance=300&make3=&model=RAM25002WD&address=97370&make2=DODGE&advanced=y&certified=&model2=RAM3502WD&max_mileage=&max_price=&bkms=1157667654393&sort_type=priceASC&min_price=&end_year=1998&color=&start_year=1989&drive=4+wheel+drive&engine=&body_style=TRUCKS&doors=&fuel=Diesel〈=en&cardist=209

Which brings up a few questions.

1. Do I want to get a 4wd or 2wd truck? I ask this because I want to use the 47rh auto trans, but I want to eventually put a 203/205 Dual T-case setup behind it. Which trans is most condusive to this upgrade? AND... What adapters will I need and where will I get them?

2. Does mileage really matter? I know it matters, but on this engine does it really matter at long as it is under 300K?

3. What parts are most important to get on my donor truck? Are there items that are a must to get in the swap or it just ain't worth it? For instance is the injector pump $5000 and if it's busted then the rest of the truck ain't worth the price of it's paint?

From the looks of the truck the axle was pushed back which bottom out the shaft then went the t-case(weak link) being the lower arm and t-case.
Now hard to tell from pics *rad,intercooler,fan will be damaged *(the injection pump will take a hit and still be ok)* I wouldn't worry about that.

I would ask for more pics inside the engine compartment,side shots to see how far thing were back they were moved if any , there is alot of room before the engine is hurt.

Conversion parts
Engine complete, intercooler tubes,pipes,clamps,grid heaters,exhaust down pipe.

The trans would be better to have a 4wd trans ,but a 2wd will work for a core.I wouldn't use a stock trans unless the engine was left stock.The dodge 47rh will have 29 spline output shaft and the rear housing will be round 6 bolt mounting just like chevy's 85 and up.

Also you'll want the A/C compressor and hard lines,so the chevy can be added.

You can get about $3500.00 from parting out the truck after you get the parts off that you want. * I would try to get him down to $4000.00 after you see more pics.


CrewCab59
 
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