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lift ? for 38.5s

56 inch rear springs. Isn't the price for a 6 inch lift gonna be about the same for an 8 inch lift and not worry about a body lift.
Tarey
 
see that is what i have been kicking around what do i all need to do for 8 inch lift drive line stuff ... it got a big block in it too... i have seen that some kits are not for big blocks ... is there a kit ... thats not to much ... i need rear springs too dont want a block ... thanks for the info...
 
I got an 8 inch on my burban with 37 BFG muds. Got the Skyjacker softride with rear springs. If you are worried about the weight of the big block get the extrs leaf in the front spring of put a zero rate block ( which gives you 1 inch of lift ) in there.
Here are a couple pics, still needs paint.
Tarey

DSCN1193.jpg

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I'm not a fan of body lifts at all - but I'm also not a fan of 8" spring lifts because it is way taller than my taste and I think you start having stability issues (tho I'm sure there are many who ride on 8" lift and are totally happy with it). Were it me, I'd run a 6" lift and cut the fenders in a real appealing way. I think it looks more tough to actually have your tires inside of the fenders instead of underneath them. however, if you dont want to cut your fenders, i think you should go 6" suspension, 2" body lift to keep your center of gravity lower and to reduce the amount of fixing you'd have to do to your drive lines.
 
how much trimming woud have to be done ? do i need to get a membership here so i can see some pics ? i see there are some kits that will not work with a big block what kits do... any websites that can be linked...
 
when you have 15 posts, you'll be able to start posting links. ;) here's a pic of my rig - 4" lift, and lots of trimming. Mine's a bit deceptive because I cut the bottom 5" off of my truck.

IMG_5535.jpg


I've since trimmed the back fenders out (visualize a tangent line from the front of that rear wheel well to the bottom of the rocker, about 2 inches toward the door from where it is now). from the door to the front of the rear fender well, its a distance of 15" (remember that this is 5" up from the bottom of a stock truck's rocker). from the same height on the truck to the rear of the front fender from the door is 7 1/2 inches. If you go look at your truck and measure out where that is, you'll be able to get an idea of how much will need to be cut. if you're not going to be wheeling it and needing flexing, you can do significantly less.

also, you can see i cut the front fender in front of the wheel well flush with the bottom of the core support and the rear quarter panel behind the rear wheel flush with the bottom of the tailgate.
 
hello guys back with more ?s .... i would like to thank u all for helping me after looking around i am thinking of a shackle flip kit... i have 2.5 " lift springs now so if i would go with the 4 " flip kit that would give me 6.5 right lol... as far as the front all i would need is 6 " lift springs what for the steering and other stuff might i need.... plz let me know if there is any thing i need ... or should look in to.... thanks a bunch for all who has helped me ....


:bow:
 
8inch superlift and 3inch body with 37s

never had any rubbing problems , i have cutouts on the front but will have stock fenders and had em b4.....a lil dirty but its all i got 4 now

Picture 363.jpg
 
Those bushwhacker fender flares don't look bad either with a tire big enough to fill the space. Cut fenders or flares is what i would do
 
you might consider running a 4" spring up front with a longer rear shackle. the stock rear shackles on these things really limit compression - as the spring hits the frame very quickly. running a longer rear shackle can gain you an inch and a half or so. I personally like the look of a forward slant, but if you don't, you could run an add-a-leaf in there for the extra inch to level it out. I think it would ride better that way than if you ran a 6" spring.

EDIT: all of the above refers to the front springs. the longer rear shackle is in reference to the rear shackle on the front springs... see post 34...
 
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you might consider running a 4" spring up front with a longer rear shackle. the stock rear shackles on these things really limit compression - as the spring hits the frame very quickly. running a longer rear shackle can gain you an inch and a half or so. I personally like the look of a forward slant, but if you don't, you could run an add-a-leaf in there for the extra inch to level it out. I think it would ride better that way than if you ran a 6" spring.

Because the stock shackle is "tension style", a longer shackle would lower the truck.

With a shackle flip, a longer shackle can add a little more lift and help flex a bunch.



To the original poster, and I can't believe it hasn't been mentioned, 38.5's will eat the front end for lunch. If you're really easy on it while wheeling, the shafts might survive; still really easy to break a 10 bolt on 38.5's so any wheel spin or traction will probably mean breakage.

On the street, expect to replace ball joints and wheel bearings every year. 38.5" Interco (swamper) tires will last 5000-15000 miles at the most, they're not designed to be used on the street.
 
Because the stock shackle is "tension style", a longer shackle would lower the truck.

Could you please explain that some more? I don't understand how that's possible.

Steve Fox said:
Our new shackles along with the 4 degree shim raised the front end by 1-5/8" allowing more than enough room for spring compression as well as much needed room for our 36" swampers without the need for higher lift springs.

STOCK:

hill4wheeldrivebefore.jpg


EXTENDED:
hill4wheeldriveafter.jpg


:confused:

******EDIT******
I think you thought I was talking about the rear suspension - which would obviously lower the truck if using the existing spring mount. When I said
the stock rear shackles on these things really limit compression
I was referring to the rear shackle on the front springs. ;)
 
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