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lift unneccesary?

tacoma

1/2 ton status
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Jan 14, 2005
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Location
tooele UT
alright. I'm running 33/15's right now, upgrading to 35/16's pretty soon. I have wheeled the snot out of this thing on 33's and had very minor rubbing. So here's the question:

with some trimming, who thinks I can get away w/35's and no lift? I think it can be done.
 
I'm running 37s with 2.5" lift. I'm sure 35s can be done with no lift. Especially if you're not afraid of doing a little cutting.

You can see some of the wheeling I've done with this setup in the first link in my signature.
 
no question is can be done. Hack those fenders!!!

j
 
Are you cutting your fenders? Are you planning any suspension mods to help your flexibility? Are you planning on running rocks or tough technical trails?
Cause when mine was a full bodied rig, with no cutting (and even with some cuts) I had 35s rubbing under 5.5" of lift susp, and a 3" body lift!
But, if you are cutting... anything is possible!
Mike
 
I am not afraid of the saw.

Plan is for 2" lift (if I have to!) as this is really the family truck, not a dedicated wheeler. I'm also going to limit uptravel as much as I can. This pig will see the harder end of mild wheeling but nothing crazy, the little kids in the back are great 'difficulty limiters' LOL

Next week I'm going to work on the 44/14bolt getting ready to swap them in, scored some brand new 35" AT's today for the rims I got a month ago. Ought to be a good, cheap, functional upgrade. Just need some new discs for the cutoff wheel and I'm good to go. Also need to cut the CUCV bumper ends to match the front fenders.

I think it's a go!
 
hey not to hijack the thread but mrk5 do you have the specs on your friends blue k5? mines the exact same color! havent seen another one the same paint job.
 
I am a big fan of keeping trucks low, but the one problem I have with only a 4" lift is that my crossmember drags on stuff a lot. I have been stuck in too many mud holes because of the crossmember getting caught in the mud trying to get out :frown1: :D You can get away with little or no lift, but lifting it a reasonable amount has its benefits.
 
Here's a stock K5 on 35's:


Optional_35s.jpg



I never wheeled it, and you can see that I had to trim the front just to get the front tires to turn on the street.
 
sweet... looks like the chops I've got planned ought to work.

TricksR4ME, there is no mud in UT, it's been banned by the state. I did once get stuck in about 6" of the slipperiest silt-mud ever though... all 4 wheels spinning at idle in 4lo. Embarassing in a big block K20. :mad:
 
tacoma said:
sweet... looks like the chops I've got planned ought to work.

TricksR4ME, there is no mud in UT, it's been banned by the state. I did once get stuck in about 6" of the slipperiest silt-mud ever though... all 4 wheels spinning at idle in 4lo. Embarassing in a big block K20. :mad:


I've got 35" on my no-lift '89 Sub.....it rubs going through approaches to businesses off the street. I'd never take it off-road how it is. Get at least a 2" lift....
 
As i say every time one of these posts comes up, your rim selection almost plays a bigger role in tire fitment than tire height. I run a 36" tall TSL with only a 2" body lift and zero fender trimming.

14576P3030029.JPG
 
Zeitler said:
let's see if i got it right: with alot of backspacing , you get more clearance to fenders and also saves balljoints/bearings
Actually for joez it is not so much back spacing as it is rim width. IIRC his back spacing is a normal 4", but his rim width is like 7" or less. So that is tucking those tires further inside the fenders. The Q78's he's running are only 9.5" wide on the tread and 10.8" on the cross section.
 
Have to be careful tucking them in too much though, or you hit the inner fenders/springs in a hurry. I made a plywood template to see what hits what, lot easier than sending tires back. :D
 
I put 36s(36x12.5 bias ply swampers on the stock rim) on a Blazer with no lift it did not rub any where it kind of depends on your truck I have also put 33s on a shortbox and had to trim just a little to keep them from rubbing both of these trucks were wheeled hard but the swaybar was left connected to limit travel a bit.
 
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My thoughts. If you are willing too do a minor lift like say 2" springs in the front and ORD's 2.5" shackle flip, + fender timming, you won't have too limit your axle articulation as much, witch would be a good thing in my opinion.
 
Yeah, just depends on how much you want to cut out.

Here is 4" lift, 1" body lift on 39.5" TSL's.....Plenty of room.

I've seen plently of 35" tires without a lift on rigs. Just have to cut a section out of the rear area of the fender and maybe some trimming on the front.

pic2.jpg
 
mrk5 said:
Actually for joez it is not so much back spacing as it is rim width. IIRC his back spacing is a normal 4", but his rim width is like 7" or less. So that is tucking those tires further inside the fenders. The Q78's he's running are only 9.5" wide on the tread and 10.8" on the cross section.

5.5" wide rims with 3.75" of backspacing and skinny tires, they fit like a charm :D
 
Z3PR said:
My thoughts. If you are willing too do a minor lift like say 2" springs in the front and ORD's 2.5" shackle flip, + fender timming, you won't have too limit your axle articulation as much, witch would be a good thing in my opinion.

yep, that's exactly what I want.
 
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