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Lockers for 1/2 ton

C

Cactus

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I want to put some kind of lockers in my 71 Blazer. The problem is that I don't want to do an axle conversion. I'm being told that the stock axles are to weak. However, I'm only running 33's. Whata ya think?
 
Put an aussie locker up front in the D44 but don't go larger than 33" tires. If you go bigger than 33 with a locker you better upgrade your front u-joints to spicer 760.

If you go bigger than 35" I'd recommend adding alloy shafts.

My 2 cents.
 
I've got a detroit in my 10bolt rear, eaton posi in the front. All on 33" tires and on a suburban. I don't see a problem...
 
on bc4x4.com a guy is selling front/rear 1/2 ton with arb lockers n compressor etc for 700 cdn, worth a shot
 
jiminycricket said:
Put an aussie locker up front in the D44 but don't go larger than 33" tires. If you go bigger than 33 with a locker you better upgrade your front u-joints to spicer 760.

If you go bigger than 35" I'd recommend adding alloy shafts.

My 2 cents.
Click to expand...

Question. Everybody says if you lock the front upgrade your U joints. In doing so doesn't this make the weak link in the front drivetrain move to the axle or ring and pinion? Wouldn't one be better off leaving the weak link as something cheap and easy to replace?
 
Az + 33's = Lockrights . I get on mine as often as I can . If your names not Rob , you can run without chromos . Just carry spare shafts , and don't be stupid when your wheeling :thumb:
 
I ran a locker in my 12 bolt with 35's for years. The front 44 should be OK, but it can brake. Tho you could brake just about anything if you try. :D May consider a limited slip or selectable locker for the front.
 
I would say it's OK, just don't go any bigger on the tires. I have 35's with a mini spool in the 10B up front. That's a little much for the stock shafts, 1 pinion yoke, and 2 axle shafts later I'm looking into cromo shafts for mine.
 
The weight (width) also factors into the risk. LT235/85R16E (31.8 dia.) on 1/2 T Sub, LockRite in front, NoSlip in rear, corp 10Bs; no problems, yet.
 
gravdigr said:
Question. Everybody says if you lock the front upgrade your U joints. In doing so doesn't this make the weak link in the front drivetrain move to the axle or ring and pinion? Wouldn't one be better off leaving the weak link as something cheap and easy to replace?
Click to expand...

The only problem with that is when you do break/grenade a axle shaft u-joint it usually takes the axle ears off with it leaving you needing one or both of the axle shafts. Speaking from experience on this one.
 
trailblazr81 said:
I ran a locker in my 12 bolt with 35's for years. The front 44 should be OK, but it can brake. Tho you could brake just about anything if you try. :D May consider a limited slip or selectable locker for the front.
Click to expand...

dont think ull break a 14b shaft, but i might be wrong :haha:
 
muddybuddy said:
dont think ull break a 14b shaft, but i might be wrong :haha:
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My current truck with 14 bolt is doing great. I was refering to back in the day when I had a 81 K5. I love seeing people around town with their purdy trucks lifted 12-16 inches with tiny 10 bolts or other weak open 1/2 ton axles, stock motor with flows and all kinds of chrome. Then I have my little truck with 35's and my big ol 14 bolt, everything scratched or rusted, 383 and locker. Ive abused 'er on the trail and on pavement. Shocked a couple ricers when I spun the tires and took them off the line. Al old Chevy's shoulda came from the factory with 14 bolts, enough lift to fit 35's decent gears and a rear locker. Blazer's, Trucks, 'Burbs.
 
OffRoad said:
you mean the kids who swaps motors like normal people change socks, and picks up chicks in his rock buggy? that guy?:D
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oh ya i remember his post about them :haha:

i like his dd buggy tho, thats sweet
 
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