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LS Motor Build - wiring question

Im watching this one. Got a guy getting me a LS 6.0/6.2 for a good deal.
Trying to learn all I need to about doing this swap. Anything you can tell me I need to know going in to this would be great.
 
little more

No much progress. I cleaned up the block a little more and put some fresh paint on it. The Dingo motor mounts came in and they look like a nice piece. As you can see by the pic, I can slide it a few inches front to back to get it to fit exactly where I want it.

As the motor sits now, it's a complete shortblock. All internals installed and all external covers and oil pan installed. Tomorrow night, I'm going to try and get the heads put back together and hopefully have the long block put finished this weekend. Now, I just need to buy a stand alone harness :D

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One thing I would recommend is swapping the oil pan for a shallower pan be it a fbody pan or a steel after market I gunk the truck one hangs way to low.
 
Thanks for the heads up on the oil pan depth. I'll keep an eye out for an F-body one in case I need to do a quick swap.
 
So I need to tell him I want a 6.2 out of a car not a truck.
 
Just get the best deal and low mileage motor you can get. Changing the oil pan is easy and cheap. I wouldn't make what the motor came out of be a deal breaker in any way. To be honest, I'm not sure if the 6.2 comes in cars?? Anyone?
 
Yes they did. Aluminum block is a car motor, cast block is a truck block.
His comment was you want the aluminum one that is 420 HP, that is what all the rock crawler guys want, it is 75 to 100 lbs lighter.
 
Teck said:
Yes they did. Aluminum block is a car motor, cast block is a truck block.
His comment was you want the aluminum one that is 420 HP, that is what all the rock crawler guys want, it is 75 to 100 lbs lighter.
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Just get what ever is cheaper for you the aluminum block is not a bigs deal.
 
I run the truck pan and though it's close,at full compression the carrier did'nt hit [with a d44]. D60 might be another story.
 
Making room for mechanical water temp gauge

I'm going to start this update a little off topic. After many years of work and fun, I decided to sell my Outlaw 10.5 Nova. Racing started off as a passion, and I quickly let it turn into a very expensive, not so fun hobby. I wish I would have left the car more of a real street car, and just had fun driving it! It was a little sad, but it's also nice to have the cash in my pocket :-)

I met the guy in MD to make the exchange.

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mechanical gauges

I currently have mechanical gauges in the truck and I was looking for a way to keep them and not switch to electric (which I don't trust). Keeping the mechanical oil temp is easy, water temp required a little more work. I found a plug in the passenger side head which I removed, drill out and tapped for my Autometer. Seemed to work nicely.. easy enough.

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Finished off the long block

Last weekend, I finally got the heads bolted on and got the valves and rockers all finished. Setting up the lifter preload was a little different, but once I understood it, things went together nicely.

I decided to go with ARP head bolts for the simple fact that I don't want to screw with torque to yield bolts, and not having to buy a new set everytime I pull the heads off.

I also ended up going with the Holley "conversion" oil pan to gain about 4 inches of clearance. It's a much shorter pan!

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Megasquirt

Broke out the soldering iron to start on the Megasquirt. I have a friend who wants my current motor in his rig, but he want a more powerful combination. We're planning a head swap, cam swap, TPI, and Megasquirt to top things off. It should be a nice combination with torque to spare.

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Do you have any pics of the oil pan and what was the cost?
 
Wideband O2 and Megasquirt

I had a few spare minutes last weekend, so I knocked out a quick mount for my wideband O2 and started soldering the Megasquirt. I decided to hook up the O2 first, to try and get a feel of how rich or lean the current stock motor/TBI setup runs.

So far, it seems to run prett lean when in open loop (17:1 or 18:1), and rich when at WOT (9:1). I'm not going to spend any time trying to figure out why it runs this way.... hopefully some of my driveability issues will clear up when I can control the tune? Then again, I could make it worse :-)

First pic is of wideband
Second is of Megasquirt
Third is the Simulator board

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megasquirt.JPG

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westn11 said:
Last weekend, I finally got the heads bolted on and got the valves and rockers all finished. Setting up the lifter preload was a little different, but once I understood it, things went together nicely.
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What did you have to do for the lifter preload it looked like the factory rocker set up which all you have to do is tighten down to a set torque no adjustments like the old sbc?
 
Basically, (and don't quote me on this) lifter preload is controlled by pushrod length. What most guys do is tighten the rocker bolt until you hit zero lash, then count how much you turn the bolt until you reach 22 ft pds. How far the bolt turns to get to 22ft is how much preload the lifter has. I think I have 1.25 turn which should be good. Some guys have had to shim the rocker stands and things like that, but mine looks good with just a pushrod length change.
 
westn11 said:
Folkenheath inspired me to get a new fuel tank and pickup. I added a Walboro 255 to the pickup which ended up being an easy upgrade. Fit perfectly into the factory location.

New tank, new pickup, new walboro pump and AN fittings for the new teflon fuel line. Still waiting on one fitting for the return line.
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Which fitting did you use for the AN fittings, just ordered a new tank and sending unit form Classic Parts. Going to order fitting, fuel pump and hose from Summit after it gets here this week.
 
westn11 said:
So far, it seems to run prett lean when in open loop (17:1 or 18:1), and rich when at WOT (9:1). I'm not going to spend any time trying to figure out why it runs this way.... hopefully some of my driveability issues will clear up when I can control the tune? Then again, I could make it worse :-)
Click to expand...

Is the stock NB still in there or are you running off only the WB? You probably have the LC-1 or LM-1 which let you emulate a NB on one output (for the TBI ECM) and give the WB signal on the other (for your gauge). 18:1 seems awfully lean to not give buck/surge. I can barely get 17:1 to be smooth during cruise, but you have different heads/etc. Did you calibrate the sensor in open air? If you're still fueling from the NB, how old is that sensor?

I'm confused by your statements "open loop" and "WOT". I've never tuned TBI, but many systems ARE open loop at WOT and closed loop at all other conditions except warm up.
 
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