Ls swap alternator charging wire routing

[jdot2004]

I've swapped an ly6 into my 86 k5 and am not sure how to route the large gauge wire. Currently I have it coming off the alternator, down around the head to the starter. However, it is tight against the head and will eventually wear through if the heat from the block and exhaust don't melt it first. Is it supposed to go directly to the battery with a fuse or something or do I need a longer wire? It is the original wire so I would think it shouldn't be that tight to the block.

 

[Babaganoosh]

Mine goes directly from the alternator to the battery. I have been wanting to change get it but haven't.

 

[jdot2004]

Mine goes directly from the alternator to the battery. I have been wanting to change get it but haven't.

Thanks. So, no fusable link or fuse is necessary?

 

[sweetk30]

my few trucks the BIG wire output off the alt goes to the batt pos terminal and no fuse .

 

[jdot2004]

Thank you both. Glad to know I can reroute it in stead of buying another wire. Money is getting pretty tight as I finish this up.

 

[TreeFarm]

Mine uses the stock distribution block and battery cables. Battery cable runs to that block and then down to the starter. Alternator wire runs to the lock


You can run it straight to the battery if you want, I have on most of my builds. The fuse will keep your rig from burning down if the alternator internally shorts. I’ve never ran one, but my buddy almost lost his rig last month from an alternator short. Thankfully he had a fuse in there.

 

[diesel4me]

I re-routed the red wires with the fusible links, that went behind the positive cable at the starter solenoid on all my GM vehicles,right to the battery positive terminal instead --had them fry inside that metal conduit pipe they routed them thru factory too many times,they put it right against the exhaust manifold.....it makes replacing the fusible links a real pain..

I had to extend the wires on a few trucks to reach the battery ,and I leave the fusible links intact so a short circuit wont burn the truck down if something goes wrong..
GM used to run the wires this way on the 1972 and older trucks and cars,I don't know why they changed it to the metal pipe conduit deal,it was a step backwards if you ask me..

I ran a second 10 gauge wire from the alternator output post right to the battery on the passenger side on my diesel pickup,it did make a difference,I am sure the original wiring being 35 years old must have some corrosion inside and high resistance...

 

[K5chevyLQ4]

I am running a 10 gauge wire from the alternator to the power distribution block on the firewall (circled). I feel like this does basically the same thing as the factory LS power block and it looks a lot cleaner. I also run a 2 AWG cable from the alternator directly to the battery.

Question for TreeFarm: Does the LS block have any fuses integrated from the factory?
I'm wondering if I need to put some type of fusible links on my setup.