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LSx Oil Pan Clearance

N

NorCalAnthony

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Hi Everyone,

I was hoping some of you guys that have done LSx swaps may be able to help me out. Did you guys run in to any clearance issues with the truck LSx oil pan with the engine crossmember or any of the suspension components? I've been searching around this site and several others and I'm seeing a mixed bag of answers. Some people had to notch and brace the existing crossmember, some people installed a new crossmember without ever checking clearance, and a handful of people didn't run in to any issues at:confused: From what I can tell, the people that ran in to cross member clearance issues were using different transmission combinations that caused the engine to sit farther forward so maybe that's why:dunno: Also, most of the swaps I've been looking at are on rigs that have already been lifter where mine is still at the stock ride height (for now) so everything will be sitting closer to the front axle and suspension components.

The reason I'm asking is I just picked up a wrecked 2000 Yukon 4x4 with a 5.3/4L60E and plan on sticking the drivetrain in my '89 Blazer. Since the new drivetrain is close to the same length as the old drive train I'm crossing my fingers that I won't run in to any issues. I'm trying to gather up parts for the swap now so if there's more than a good chance that I'll need a lower profile oil pan or aftermarket crossmember I'd rather find out now than when the engine's on the hoist lol. What do you guys think?

Thanks in advance,
Anthony
 
Which mounts are those, so we don't have to go skipping from thread to thread searching?
 
I used the dirty dingo(junk) mounts on mine and the corner of the block hit the crossmember alittle, if you had the motor as far back as the mounts would allow the cylinder heads were almost touching the fire wall.

My oil pan to front axle clearance made me nervous too, but it didn't rub or anything
 
79bonanza said:
I used the dirty dingo(junk) mounts on mine and the corner of the block hit the crossmember alittle, if you had the motor as far back as the mounts would allow the cylinder heads were almost touching the fire wall.

My oil pan to front axle clearance made me nervous too, but it didn't rub or anything
Click to expand...


ah another unhappy dirty dingo customer . he sucks :flipoff11:

I have yet to do a 4wd ls swap so no help from me .

but I used dirty dingo CRAP before on my 2wd swap and they were the adjustable ones and I set back 1.25 from stock .
 
Thanks for the replies so far everyone.

y5mgisi - Your build thread was one of the best ones I've read and have been referencing it for tips and ideas:bow: I thought you had said you used the car shop inc motor mounts but looking back would have gone with another style? What didn't you like about them? Also, do you happen to have any pictures of the bottom of the truck with the engine in? You had one in your thread where you could see the oil pan but it was a shot of the exhaust you were putting in so all you could see was the back side and not where it's close to to the crossmember...

79bonanza - I've heard a few people say they weren't happy with the Dirty Dingo mounts and was curious what you didn't like about yours. How close was your oil pan to the front axle? I went back and checked out your engine swap thread but didn't see any pictures of the underside. I like the way you're trying to go the factory looking route with the 5.3 in the older truck:waytogo:

I was looking at getting a set of adjustable ls swap motor mounts but have heard enough complaints that I'm planning on staying away from Dirty Dingo... Some like these http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stoker-039-...-6-0-LSX-/121264409911?_trksid=p2054897.l4275 from Stroker's Hot Rod Factory with some new poly mounts. Hopefully that'll do the trick.
 




I didn't like the dirty dingo parts because they just seemed weak. Laser cut and bent but I'm pretty sure if you nose dived your truck they would giveaway.

I had like 1/2" of clearance between the oil pan and yoke. This is a stock height K5 and my mounts were slid back almost as far back as possible. And the oil pan didn't hit the crossmember, it's a casting part of the block that hit on mine
 
Check out TnA, he just created some ls mounts and they are adjustable and look great.

I used Diy4x mounts and had Kurt space the motor up high for maximum bump travel and a small block ORD cross member, It only hangs about 2 inches below the frame and the diff is maybe 1/4 inch below it.
 
The only reason I wished I would have gone dirty dingo was the slotted feature they have which would allow you to slide the motor back and forward easily. Ultimately, that's not necessar. I did use the car shop iInc mounts. They are titled as "1" set back mounts ". But they are what puts the motor in the exact stock location. I had zero clearance issues at all, whatsoever. And had to modify nothing at all as far as Trans mount locatio, shifter location, etc. With those mounts, the motor ssimply drops in as if it were another sbc. I'll type up some more when I'm not typing from my phone.
 
I used an older design TNA crossmember, Off Road Design mounts and custom made adapters. My setup works well, I have plenty of clearance everywhere and its strong. If I were to redo it though, I'd get TNA's new setup and be done with it. I've got a 5.3L and a 4L80E in my 89 suburban, not sure if the 80E is longer than the 60E but I would have had to move the trans crossmember back 3" if I weren't already building a new one..
 
Thanks for chiming in everyone :thumb: I'm hoping this thread might be useful for other people who plan on mixing the newer engines with these older trucks.

sweetk30 - I'm glad you posted in here, I've read some of your stuff over on ls1tech to get ideas for my project. I like how beefy the diy4x mounts are but was looking for something that was adjustable so I have some flexibility when I'm fitting the engine in.

79bonanza - Thanks for posting those pics that's exactly what I was curious about. Mine is at stock ride height too and I see what you mean about the clearance to the front axle/yoke making you nervous lol. I think an oil pan off a newer truck (or an LS engine) would give some extra room there but obviously wouldn't help too much where the cast part of the block was having issues.

y5mgisi - I think you're one of the few people that have gotten lucky and had the engine drop straight in without any issues or adjustments needed :waytogo: I'm hoping with some careful preparation I'll be able to do the same thing.

Babganoosh - I just saw the update to TNA's build thread and really like those motor mounts he just came up with. I think they may be just what I'm looking for since they're adjustable yet still look to be super strong.

muddysub - I've been following your build thread as well and have to say I'm super impressed and wish I had your fab skills:bow: I'm looking forward to seeing how your trans cross member turns out once you're done and have the interlocking skids set up :) I know the 4L80E is longer than the 4L60E (I think 2-3") so I'm pretty sure I'll be able to leave my T-case in the stock location and just bolt my newer trans straight to it. I'm tempted to get TNA's new crossmember along with his motor mounts just to make sure I'm covered when I do the swap.
 
It's all about those motor mount adapters. Two other members on here used the same and also had zero issues. Pinsco63, and the other I think is xp3ndable or something along those lines.
 
Yea the oil pan is pretty close, I'm eventually gonna buy me one of those stamped steel ones that cost a small fortune lol. But I figure id prefer a dented oil pan to a oil pan with a chunk missing lol
 
Check out my thread in the tech articles section, I show a few pictures of how much I had to clearance to fit my 5.3L
 
sorry to raise a old post from the dead but im at that point in my swap where Im getting ready to drop the motor in. bought the diy4x mounts and could not really find anywhere if the subframe is going to have to be cut and if so how much? I emailed diy4x and never got a reply. anyone use there mounts without cutting?
89 k5 4x4 have a lq4/4l65e going in.
thanks for the help.
 
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