MetalNeverDies 87 K5 *transfercase help!*

[metalneverdies]

metalneverdies submitted a new Build:

MetalNeverDies 87 K5 *transfercase help!*

Will be picking up my 1987 k5 from Arizona in march 2012.

As of now I am starting planning out my budget build. The truck is an AZ native so there is no rust on it. However, I will be bringing it to OK. I've read about getting the underside coated with oil. Definately the fist investment I want to purchase. Any idea on the costs for doing this?

Next plan is a lift. I want to go the cheapest route possible with out sacraficing reliability. I will not be doing any major towing so I am thinking stock springs and a shackle flip then the spring swap on the front.

I am going to have to stick with the stock 10 bolts for a while, as I am on a broke college kids budget. How big of tires will I be able to run with out stressing the 10 bolts too badly? I have checked the fit sheet as far as clearance but after reading all the 10 bolt bashing I am worried.

After I get the truck home I also want to do compression or leakdown test on the motor, just to see where it is at life wise. Any other vital tests suggested?

What are the trail/crawling limits of the blazer in stock form?

Anything else I should watch out for when planning my build?

Appriciate all the help and advice will definately get a membership, post pics, and keep everyone updated when I pick it up.

View attachment 231171

Read more about this build here...

 

[swettysblazer]

Will be picking up my 1987 k5 from Arizona in march 2012.

As of now I am starting planning out my budget build. The truck is an AZ native so there is no rust on it. However, I will be bringing it to OK. I've read about getting the underside coated with oil. Definately the fist investment I want to purchase. Any idea on the costs for doing this?

Next plan is a lift. I want to go the cheapest route possible with out sacraficing reliability. I will not be doing any major towing so I am thinking stock springs and a shackle flip then the spring swap on the front.

I am going to have to stick with the stock 10 bolts for a while, as I am on a broke college kids budget. How big of tires will I be able to run with out stressing the 10 bolts too badly? I have checked the fit sheet as far as clearance but after reading all the 10 bolt bashing I am worried.

After I get the truck home I also want to do compression or leakdown test on the motor, just to see where it is at life wise. Any other vital tests suggested?

What are the trail/crawling limits of the blazer in stock form?

Anything else I should watch out for when planning my build?

Appriciate all the help and advice will definately get a membership, post pics, and keep everyone updated when I pick it up.

Welcome man! Sounds like you are starting with a pretty clean truck. I can't help you with the cost of the oil undercoating, but I would definitely say do it if you think its going to help preserve the truck.

As for the lift, the shackle flip and some Tuff Country EZ Rides up front would probably give you the best bang for your buck. How high were you thinking of going? 4"? 6"?

As for the 10 bolts, you will get a lot of different answers on the strength. Most guys say 35's max. Other's will say up to 37's or 38's if you keep your foot out of it. It all depends on your driving style, and whether or not you like fixing broken parts I have wheeled a few times in my truck on 10 bolts and 35's, and it is a little bit scary especially if you get some momentum and wheelspeed going praying that you won't break.

As for the limits of the truck, it depends once again on driving style more than the capability of the truck. My advice is drive it stock for a while, wheel it, and then build the truck to suit your driving style.

As for things to check for, check the frame around the steering box for cracks. These trucks are notorious for having stress cracks there. ORD sells a couple of braces that even if your frame isn't cracked I would put on. Other than that, when you get a chance put up some pics and everyone on the site will be mroe than happy to help you. Welcome to the brotherhood, and this is probably the beginning of a long, expensive addiction

 

[metalneverdies]

@swettysblazer

Thanks for the reply. It is pretty clean. My dad owned it from day one. Now I'm getting it. Had the rear shock mounts re-welded about 2 years ago. The one side was starting to seprate at the seam. Otherwise in pretty good shape. I've driven some relatively easy trails with it over the years. I even learned how to drive when I was like 10 with it on woodsy back roads. Absolutely love the k5 series.

Using stock rear springs and aftermarket front won't cause issues between the different spring rates? What is a recommended bang for buck shock? Realistically probably only a 4 inch lift. Don't want to have to get longer drive shafts.

 

[swettysblazer]

If you're talking about the shackle flip, then no, guys on here do it all the time. I think thats the route I am going to go once I decide what I want to do with my truck. Its probably the best way to go as far as ride quality, unless you go all custom springs.

As for shocks, Bilsteins are near the top. While they aren't necesarilly cheap, the 5100 or 5125 series are hard to beat.

 

[metalneverdies]

looking at options now for rebuilding ( not very cost effective) and buying a long block motor.

gm direct crate and long block motors say they are made for pre 1979 and off road vehicles and not made to pass emissions? the edelbrock site also says this. why are they all off road only?

is that said for legal purposes or is there no way that i could pass emissions with them?

 

[metalneverdies]

Picked up the 1987 K5 last week while on spring break in Arizona. cruised it around while i was visiting friends and family, then replaced the heater core, did a quick inspection, picked up a 5x8' uhaul trailer and my wife and I headed back to Oklahoma.

Unfortunately while doing my inspection i noticed the passengers side exhaust manifold has a hair line fracture running across it. I guess I will see if some one local will be able to weld it up for me. I also found out the radiator has a minor leak on the drivers side tank. Not a huge deal either. The front spring also is an issue; it has quite a bit of negative arch. Is that normal for the factory springs?

The truck did pretty decent on the way home even with all of the hills. We made it the whole 1000 miles with no issues other than the powersteering puking out of the shaft seal. Guess I need to do some research and get some parts for that.

now onto the pics

 

[metalneverdies]

a few more

The carpet is a bit stained. Thinking about keeping the "bed liners" or what ever that panel is called and then truck bed lining the while floor. If I dont do the whole floor I may just do the rear of the truck so I dont have to worry about putting nasty things back there.

 

[86454K30]

That thing is clean! Would love to have it. IMO as clean and original as that is AND it is a one owner I would either recarpet it or at least do an OE style mat front to rear, much cleaner and nicer considering the condition of that blazer. As far as the cracked exhaust manifold....Dorman makes nice replacements.

I would be willing to bet if it cracked where you can see it the crack travels even further.

 

[MTBLAZER89]

Very clean rig and welcome.

Yes the factory front springs are a negative arch like that. Im sure they have sagged some over time as well.

The Power steering box is somewhat common as well. You can get a seal kit for them at a decent parts place for the input, the output and the top cover gasket for around $20 i think last time i bought one. I have had success and failure with the seals, but on a stockish rig the box sees a bit less stress than some of the trail rigs here.

As mentioned above a set of the Tuff Country 4" and a shackle flip would be right on for a set of 33-35's. That along with the steering box brace. Maybe some new steering components and just enjoy driving the thing!

I had a lot of fun with my 4" lift and 33's for a long time. Take the top off and go for a ride in the dirt. The 10 bolts will be fine as long as they have been maintained and not abused. Dont get too wrapped up in the Dana 60 14B, 42's, lockers. Just enjoy the truck. Dont get me wrong I love wheelish the $hit out of my rig, but mine was cleaner than that when I started and sometimes I really do regret not destroying something a little rougher to start with Anyway just my .02

 

[Cruz89K5]

Glad to see more Oklahoma members. Where are you from?

 

[metalneverdies]

Glad to see more Oklahoma members. Where are you from?

Originally from AZ. Moved into the Moore area about a year ago. If your ever up for some wheeling, send me a pm.


As for the lift I'm thinking ill avoid the shackle flip so I can replace the tired stiff riding factory rear springs. Still debating on the 2, 3, or 4" lift. I need the truck to still be streetable. Wonders a bit as it is, so I know once I get a lift and 33's I will need to replace the pitman arm, drag link, and maybe a ball joint or too.

It's really tempting to put headers on it, some steel ones with emissions stuff, since I will probably have to take off the factory one anyways. I have a set with no emissions stuff off my friends 74 2wd long bed that has a bored out 350 in it, but no clue if they will fit.

 

[metalneverdies]

Very clean rig and welcome.

Yes the factory front springs are a negative arch like that. Im sure they have sagged some over time as well.

The Power steering box is somewhat common as well. You can get a seal kit for them at a decent parts place for the input, the output and the top cover gasket for around $20 i think last time i bought one. I have had success and failure with the seals, but on a stockish rig the box sees a bit less stress than some of the trail rigs here.

As mentioned above a set of the Tuff Country 4" and a shackle flip would be right on for a set of 33-35's. That along with the steering box brace. Maybe some new steering components and just enjoy driving the thing!

I had a lot of fun with my 4" lift and 33's for a long time. Take the top off and go for a ride in the dirt. The 10 bolts will be fine as long as they have been maintained and not abused. Dont get too wrapped up in the Dana 60 14B, 42's, lockers. Just enjoy the truck. Dont get me wrong I love wheelish the $hit out of my rig, but mine was cleaner than that when I started and sometimes I really do regret not destroying something a little rougher to start with Anyway just my .02

It was my dad's truck, even with 31's we have had a lot of fun in it. I can't wait to get a mild lift and 33's.

In stock from he blew out the rear axle twice. It had the gov lock in it. After the second time he took it to some 4wd shop (4 wheel supply?) And told them fix it, I don't want it to break again. He isn't sure what they put in the axle but said it was a rather expensive trip, I am Hopeing it has some sort of hardened internals and locker. All I know is that it does for sure have some sort of LSD or locker in it. They both dig holes in the dirt lol

 

[Vetteracerx]

Originally from AZ. Moved into the Moore area about a year ago. If your ever up for some wheeling, send me a pm.


As for the lift I'm thinking ill avoid the shackle flip so I can replace the tired stiff riding factory rear springs. Still debating on the 2, 3, or 4" lift. I need the truck to still be streetable. Wonders a bit as it is, so I know once I get a lift and 33's I will need to replace the pitman arm, drag link, and maybe a ball joint or too.

It's really tempting to put headers on it, some steel ones with emissions stuff, since I will probably have to take off the factory one anyways. I have a set with no emissions stuff off my friends 74 2wd long bed that has a bored out 350 in it, but no clue if they will fit.

I have a set of ceramic coated ones that I only used for a month.

 

[Deuling]

Subscribed

 

[metalneverdies]

I have a set of ceramic coated ones that I only used for a month.

if they have emissions hook ups and will fit PM me a price

 

[Vetteracerx]

These are the exact one that I have. I had them on my 1991 K5. I put an o2 bung in the left pipe and upgraded to a heated sensor. All right before I changed it all over to a 454 TBI http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HOK-2453-1HKR/?rtype=1

 

[y5mgisi]

That looks nice and clean!

 

[metalneverdies]

did some minor maintence

Well, did a few things to the truck today. Nothing big, but just enough to keep me procrastinating on my studies.

Did a quick detail on the inside. Just cleaned the dust and spots off of all the plastic and the dash.

Bought the reseal kit for the out put shaft on the steering box.

Then I adjusted the floppy squeaking doors all the way around. Ended up having to replace the striker on the passengers side. The little plastic sleeve was missing and causing it to squeak like crazy. After my adjustment I noticed now that the rear tail gate has a pop when i am turning and going over a bump. It is coming from the passengers side.

Reset the timing on the truck. It was a little below the 0* mark on the timing notch. Tried to get as close as i could to 0* but ended up just above it, still quite a bit below the 4* mark. Runs a bit better. The exhaust still makes really weird vibrations/ticking sounds. I replaced the CAT with a high flow before I left AZ, but it is still doing it. I guess my next step would be to replace the muffler?

Noticed that the steps on the side of the truck are kind of flexy and annoying. The passengers side is starting to crack at the weld. I liked them because we have used them as rock sliders before and it saved the bottom of the doors a few times. But with as bad as they are flexing I may just take them off. unsure yet. If i do keep them I will be truck bet lining all but the diamond plate just to clean them up a bit.

Apparently no one in my area brazes the old brass radiators, I hate to spend all that money to buy a new one when nothing is wrong other than a pin hole leak with the 4 core radiator that i have in it.

Unfortunately the passengers side slider window will not open more than like 6 inches. The track is all cracked and dry rotted and now matter how hard i force it back the window will not budge.

Also still playing with the idea of painting the little light grilles black because the cheap chrome on them is starting to rust just a bit in a few spots. I think i want to paint the head light bezel as close to factory silver as i can, the original paint is severely faded and you can see bare plastic in a few speckled spots.

I am including a pic of the headers i have, the flanges seem kind of strange, give you opinion on using them though.

Also, what are the thoughts on the current mount for the CB antenna, really dont want to have to drill holes in the body. I am not sure how well it works though. The whole trip down the I-40 from AZ to OK it only went off twice and they were both at truck stops.

A few pics so you can see what im contemplating:

 

[metalneverdies]

A pic of the light grilles, and CB mount:

 

[Deuling]

Hard to tell with the headers untill you try fitting them on, flanges appear fine to me, but the problem on these trucks is them hitting the frames. Also if you depending on how your pullys are setup (my AC is on D-Side up top and power steering below it) you may have to do some grinding on the pully brackets as one of them bolts to the front manifold studs on the driver side and wont quite fit with the headers.