CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

MNorby's Goat - Ibex build

Participated in the 2018 Dakota Territory Challenge this summer also. I decided to try the 41.5 PBR radials instead of the BFGs thinking the extra diff clearance would be nice. It was until 2 tires got cut. The first was on an area known to kill tires so can't hardly blame the tire there. The second was the day after on a smooth rounded boulder, maybe that tire was damaged from the previous day and finally let loose there. Either was picked up another tire and will have the smaller cut tire repaired for a spare.

Broke the GoPro mount on the first day but kinda got a cool video of the trail Surprise. Surprise is a permit only trail only ran during the challenge. That was once of the reasons for participating in the challenge is to run a few trails I had ran years ago that are now closed and only allowed during this event. Didn't get many pictures either.

40657884_10212830123612331_5998273341872406528_o.jpg

20180901_100047.jpg

20180901_104410.jpg

20180902_132731.jpg


 
After wheeling with some friends in South Dakota a few years ago I decided I needed rear steer. I sourced a ribbed 14 bolt housing, dually 60 hubs, dana 70 open Cs, and started building. First I machined the dually hubs into SRW hubs. Then shaved the housing and got the Cs to be press fit installed.

20170523_080235.jpg

20170530_124457.jpg

20170531_081037.jpg

20170605_151144.jpg

20170907_083115.jpg

20170907_105744.jpg

20170907_132519.jpg
 
I decided to offset the pinion about 3" so both the inner shafts would be the same length for a universal spare inner shaft. Also installed the steering in front of axle for added protection and used a 2.5x8 single ended cylinder for the extra power over the same size double ended cylinder. I picked up some alignment bar pucks to make sure I was getting everything straight. I ended up using my old front Artec arms with 8" between tierod and kingpin to get around 30 degrees steering since much more would be difficult to clear with the back seat. I also ended up using Solid knuckles to match the front setup. Built a truss with extra internal webbing to help support the steering and control arm forces all out of 3/16" material.

Also added a rear steer lockout in case I feel the need for a long road trip or rear hydraulic failure I could just swap the one pressure hose from the pump back to orbital and bypass all the rear plumbing if needed.

20180607_082820.jpg

20180613_121529.jpg

20180731_163531.jpg

20181017_125239.jpg
 
I ended up going with 300M 30/35 spline RCV shafts. I al ready had the 30 spline 14 bolt ARB locker and since I put the Yukon locking hubs on the front I had a set of 35 spline drive flanges leftover. I debated these vs Branik shafts. Have heard of some trouble with RCVs but not many but also have a few friends running them even in the rear without complaints so at the end of the day these were cheaper and a warranty. I will get a inner ujoint shaft made for a spare and I already have front stub spares that will replace a rear shaft in case of failure.

I didn't want to have to change my control arm or driveline lengths so I knew the LCA mount on the chassis was going to have to be relocated to make that work. Cut the old ones off and mocked up the axle where it needed to be for the driveshaft to fit then lines up the LCAs to decide where the mounts needed to be installed. Then mocked up where the upper control arms needed to fit on the new axle and installed them.

20181020_085950.jpg

20181020_090004.jpg

20181021_073518.jpg

20181031_065435.jpg
 
With about an 18" belly on 39s and 20" on the 41.5s I had about 8-9" uptravel on the shocks. I knew with the rear steer is was going to have some interference so when I built the truss I didn't work the UCA mounts low profile into the truss and just put them on top with the idea I would rework the chassis shock mounting to lessen the uptravel some. I cut the rear shock tubework out and rebuild the crossmember so be just above the fuel tank. I made a quick jig from some scrap to hole the crossmember at the proper height and started building. Its setup now for a 6-7" uptravel at same belly height. I also decided to change the tube profile on the rear to maybe try to make look less boxy. This brings the rig up to current and also have some work about to start on the front end in the next few weeks.

20181207_163805.jpg

20181205_170502.jpg

20181212_161544.jpg

20181212_161554.jpg

20181212_161602.jpg
 
the back end looks nice. I like the flatter line you get from the side view
 
That some serious articulation but it looks like you are about to cut a tire! :doah:

;)

That was the cut tire still with a bunch of plugs in it waiting for the replacement still. Probably had a few psi in it there. Took 3 months to get the new tire but I did get it on another Pitbull 50% off sale again so couldn't complain too much. Better than when I first ordered those tires on the Trump day sale, those took 9 months. I bet the 41.5 radial 16.5 tire isn't a very common size but the largest radial that fits 16.5 wheels.
 
Matt good to see ya back on the board.

It's looking good
 
That was the cut tire still with a bunch of plugs in it waiting for the replacement still. Probably had a few psi in it there. Took 3 months to get the new tire but I did get it on another Pitbull 50% off sale again so couldn't complain too much. Better than when I first ordered those tires on the Trump day sale, those took 9 months. I bet the 41.5 radial 16.5 tire isn't a very common size but the largest radial that fits 16.5 wheels.

I was just heckling you because it seemed like you didn't have very good luck with the pitbulls.
 
I do like your modifications, the back is looking good and the rear steer I'm sure you'll get your use out of with the wheeling you do.

What does that thing weigh?
 
Top Bottom