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More problems... Need answers. No Drive....

:D....

Hey--dont they have some pipe plugs on the side of the tranny to hook up pressure gauges??..that would be where I'd tap in a gauge,and see if its putting out the roght pressures ,its a lot less mess that letting the cooler lines spray everywhere..there should be at least 3 plugs ,one for low/reverse and more for the other gears..

I might have a service manual that shows their location..
 
So I ended up just pulling the motor and checking EVERYTHING AGAIN. stupid me...... i forgot to replace the Kickdown linkage and the Tranny fluid was dripping out the top of the cable out the top of the transmission. Thus making the Transmission consistintly low on fluids everytime we tried to start the car, and not allowing it to pump the fluids through.... So Imconsidering not replacing the kickdown linkage and just buying a plug for it.

eg: http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/catalog/catalog_inc/viewitem.php?ITEMID=667

are these a one size fits all? or specifics? took the link of a hotrod forum that was posted by a guy that used this to plug his th350 in a chevelle. assuming its the same.

Let me know what you guys think! thanks.
 
another thing.... like an engine with no oil and running is bad.... was it bad for the tranny for the engine to run and it be low on oil? Since the car never waas engaged in gear and never drove im assuming the tranny is okay as it was when i started. Or may have there been damage done?
 
Probably not. Tough to say though. When was the last time you changed the atf and filter. Cheap insurance to pull the pan and have a look see.
Before you pull the pan , and after the leak is corrected, you could perform a cooler flow test, it will loosely tell you how well the pump is working .Pull the pressure line off and have a buddy fire the truck up, with the line connected to a hose and pointed into a clean and clear container.
it should pump a quart in 10-15seconds. If ok run it and see .
 
DeviousK5 said:
Probably not. Tough to say though. When was the last time you changed the atf and filter. Cheap insurance to pull the pan and have a look see.
Before you pull the pan , and after the leak is corrected, you could perform a cooler flow test, it will loosely tell you how well the pump is working .Pull the pressure line off and have a buddy fire the truck up, with the line connected to a hose and pointed into a clean and clear container.
it should pump a quart in 10-15seconds. If ok run it and see .
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I have never changed the ATF and filter. only had it two months though...
We tested the engine pump and steering pump and all wsa good. all though steering pump fluid was a milky brownish color... not good im assuming.
 
Not sure what you mean by engine pump. the P/s fluid is dirty flush it out. If its milky/foamy you probably just got some water in there. As far as the kickdown cable is concearned get a new one, theyre cheap less:than 30$ at a parts store, besides in your neck of the woods who the hell wants to manually downshift going up and down the mountainous roads, and they're super easy to change.
 
DeviousK5 said:
Not sure what you mean by engine pump. the P/s fluid is dirty flush it out. If its milky/foamy you probably just got some water in there. As far as the kickdown cable is concearned get a new one, theyre cheap less:than 30$ at a parts store, besides in your neck of the woods who the hell wants to manually downshift going up and down the mountainous roads, and they're super easy to change.
Click to expand...

If theres water in there its not a bigg deal? i figured it would ahve been. Is that whats accounting for this loud screaching noise when i turn the wheel eather left or right? And very true with the mountains. It was only fun to shift in my old subaru going through the mountains...
 
Hiobviking5 said:
If theres water in there its not a bigg deal? i figured it would ahve been. Is that whats accounting for this loud screaching noise when i turn the wheel eather left or right? And very true with the mountains. It was only fun to shift in my old subaru going through the mountains...
Click to expand...

The loud screeming is the belt. The factory brackets always seem loose and don't align the pulley perfectly. I suggest loosening the adjustment on it, taking a long screw driver or similar prying device and get that pulley as tight as humanly possible.

The water in there isn't huge, but it needs to be flushed because over time the water in the oil will rust out the inside of the pump and steering box.
 
As tight as humanly possible will create extra tension and heat on the belt, there has to be some deflection, like 1in for every foot of belt between belt driven components. Ask how i know about belts as tight as humanly possible, and what it can cause
 
DeviousK5 said:
As tight as humanly possible will create extra tension and heat on the belt, there has to be some deflection, like 1in for every foot of belt between belt driven components. Ask how i know about belts as tight as humanly possible, and what it can cause
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Well then please do explain.... and how I can properly manage to figure out the tension of 1in for every foot belt between belt components.... thats not gonna be in the manual....
 
Hiobviking5 said:
Well then please do explain.... and how I can properly manage to figure out the tension of 1in for every foot belt between belt components.... thats not gonna be in the manual....
Click to expand...
Just guesstamate or get a belt tention checking tool.:popcorn:
 
The real only way i can explain is, if there was a foot between your P/S pump and water pump pulley you would want an inch of movement on the belt(up and down) total. but the distance between the P/S and H20 pump is coser to 10 in if memory serves so a good safe bet would be roughly 3/4in. It doesn't have to be exact science here, but i have in person seen a alternator pulley turn glowing red after about 3 miles of driving because the belt was tight as humanly possible(totally wasted the alternator)
 
DeviousK5 said:
The real only way i can explain is, if there was a foot between your P/S pump and water pump pulley you would want an inch of movement on the belt(up and down) total. but the distance between the P/S and H20 pump is coser to 10 in if memory serves so a good safe bet would be roughly 3/4in. It doesn't have to be exact science here, but i have in person seen a alternator pulley turn glowing red after about 3 miles of driving because the belt was tight as humanly possible(totally wasted the alternator)
Click to expand...

Wouldn't the belt melt before cherry red temps could ever be reached?
 
Surprisingly enough, not right away. The cord in the belt will tend to hold it together after the rubber has softened, plus it is not touching the pulley for about 99% of the time.
The pulley has to sit there and take it, while any one part of the belt is only touching the pulley for a split second.
The rest of the time, its cooling off going around the other pulleys.

I know this because I saw a steel idler pulley that the bearings were seizing up on and it was glowing.
But that was from old age, not too tight.

Of course, when I switched the truck off, the belt caught on fire.
So, I cranked it back up until I got some wet sand to throw on it.
 
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