Mountain Man's K5 Extended Cab Flatbed Project

[6872xtc]

My partially educated guess is that you have several things adding up. The extension cord makes it a longer run on the circuit to the load. This makes for a larger voltage drop at the welder. The running a longer bead warms up the windings in the welder, making more resistance. Then the amount of power needed for the light adds in. Now o doubt that these factors are much to be concerned with on an individual basis, but added together, can be too much for the breaker. Remember that when the volts go down, the current goes up. And if the breaker is not 100%, then it gets more susceptible.
Just my guess.

 

[Bent77]

Yeah I have to run the short fat cord to do the weld

 

[MountainmanID]

Slow progress with going back to work almost full time building Dad's hangar and house on his new property, helping fund the build though! Slow going finishing the passenger side floor welding with the 20A breaker tripping every time I run more than a 2" bead. All the pieces in place, just running all the beads to seal in the new sheet metal and then wire wheel to prep for rust bullet and roll on bed liner. Mick keeps a watchful eye:

 

[MountainmanID]

Also scored a NP205 which will not be doubled for now. Will be resealed and installed. Feels tight with very little slop in all positions. If anyone has pics of a DIY double stick, I'll be TIGing one together shortly:

 

[MountainmanID]

Quick update, been long enough I know.

Finished building new shop and got 2 post lift installed. Got Blazer moved down there and on the lift.

Cut back half of body off, tons of rust removed. Picking up a cab later this week to cut the back off of and finish the extended cab idea.

Put shackle flip on rear and mounted D60 rear axle. Ended up doing a home made U bolt eliminator which also allowed me to move the centering hole 3/4" outboard on the perch to match the K5 Springs. Got a stainless brake line made today and will have the brakes bled tomorrow to check how the LSD works in the snow.

Bought a D44 8 lug in the same 4.10 ratio to put on the front of the truck, hoping to get that done in the next month.

 

[6872xtc]

Good to see you are still working on it. Did you get the shifter done for the 205? And did you modify the shift rails for 2wd low? (I don't know how much front drive only would benefit you. )

 

[MountainmanID]

Good to see you are still working on it. Did you get the shifter done for the 205? And did you modify the shift rails for 2wd low? (I don't know how much front drive only would benefit you. )

I'm actually planning on putting it back together with the 203 to run it for a few months while re sealing the 205 and putting yokes on it. I'm planning on grinding that one for FWD though. Maybe some day I will need to limp home without powering the rear driveshaft?

 

[6872xtc]

Good point. I haven't used front only yet, but if you are modifying it yourself, why not? I like 2wd low for sure.

 

[MountainmanID]

Front wheel burn? That would look pretty special in a square body with adjustable proportioning valve....

 

[MountainmanID]

Oh yeah. I also did all the sheet metal replacement on the front in the driver side. Bedlinered over rust bullet today.

Also got the stainless line mounted on the rear and bled the rear brakes.

 

[MountainmanID]

Got to test out the rear axle today. The front is still the 10 bolt so it was a 2wd test but good news is the lsd seems to be working in the snow anyway. Did some donuts in the snow and pulled it back in the shop.

 

[MountainmanID]

Front axle time! It turns out I had 3.07 10bolts, no wonder the 4.10s felt fast. Waiting for the ubolt kit to show up at oreillys and 11 more lug nuts to show up at federated. Both should be in tomorrow morning, then we will bolt that D44 in and see what she looks like with 8 lug shoes!

 

[MountainmanID]

Sometimes you gotta explain everything.....

 

[MountainmanID]

Oreillys was late getting the Ubolt kit in this morning so I was only able to get the front lined up and sitting on the axle. Tomorrow I can throw the U bolts on attach and bleed brakes, get the steering eyeballed straight and hopefully take it out for a highway speed test.

 

[MountainmanID]

Front axle is mounted and feels good driving down the road. Did a little burnout to check road conditions for safety. She actually rolls out pretty well.



Picked up the Donor cab this morning to cut the back off of to finish the extended cab portion.
Didn't exactly fit on the trailer...


I almost feel bad using this cab. Ive never seen one with such little rust. Even the rockers are original and un bent.


Tomorrow we cut the back off of the cab and see how well it fits the chopped blazer.

 

[MountainmanID]

Okay, finally getting to the weird part of this build. It turns out the truck cab I got was (according to the guy who tore it apart) a 1984 Shortbed, 1/2 ton, 2WD diesel. Whatever it was it seems to match up in all the right places. I could be doing MIG work tomorrow if it keeps rolling like this.

Used the Hackzall to halve the cab:




A bunch of "test fit, bump grind slam, test fit again" later..


Thats as close as its getting tonight




And the whole reason for all of this, a bigger interior.

 

[6872xtc]

I like what you are up to! But I agree with you that it is a little bit of a shame to cut that cab up.

 

[MountainmanID]

Got the roof and passenger side tacked on. Hater Blocker rear window:

 

[6872xtc]

I like it even though I would like a quarter window. But I would bet that the work to install one isn't worth it for the purpose of this truck.
And I would just end up tinting it anyway...
Keep going!

 

[MountainmanID]

I like it even though I would like a quarter window. But I would bet that the work to install one isn't worth it for the purpose of this truck.
And I would just end up tinting it anyway...
Keep going!

Yeah I'm going with a CUCV type camo job when I'm done with the mud (bondo). I HATE BODY WORK. Especially chasing grooves in the top layer so a gloss paint looks good. I'm pretty much going to weld most of the lap joints and then do enough bondo to cover the hard edges and tack welds then sand it and go with the khaki base coat.

The big question is do I weld the back window shut and run a camera out of the third brake light hole at the top of the back of the cab or try to cut makrolon to make a rear window I can RTV in place. All of my rear bumper lights are on the way and I ordered a 7" display back up camera that mounts on the rear view mirror.