CK5
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Muddysub's Toyota crawler.

David barely fits in your Toyota!

Yeah, I just fit and he's a couple inches taller than me. I have three or four friends that can't go wheeling wth me. When I cut it up and buggy it I'll build in some more leg/headroom.

Second one is better I think. And remind me to not ride with you. I was nervous just watching. Lol.
You lift tires like I lift beers.

Ironically, it always feels stable. I've dragged the sides of the flatbed with a front tire 4' off the ground before. Going up hells gate felt a million times more stable in my Toyota than it did in a K5 on 40s.
 
I was thinking with a truck like that I'd just try to make the exhaust really quiet rather than try to make it sound mean or something.
 
I've gotten a lot done on the rear axle. I'm almost there.
The brakes, wheel bearings and seals are done, I used Marlin Crawler's wheel bearing service kits and got new wheel cylinders and brake shoes. This axle isn't the original one, all the brakes for an 83 Toyota were smaller than these. I ended up getting shoes for a '92 pickup.
I got started on installing the new ring/pinion this evening as well. The carrier and locker were fine so I cleaned them up and got the pinion preload set, the kit came with a solid spacer so I was able to set the preload without the crush sleeve bullshit. Once that was done I guessed at where to start on the pinion depth and damn near nailed it. I tore it apart to see if I could get the pinion just a little deeper, got distracted for a minute and shimmed it the wrong way. Haha! So I have to re-shim it one more time. Having a pair of setup bearings makes life much easier.

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This axle isn't the original one, all the brakes for an 83 Toyota were smaller than these. I ended up getting shoes for a '92 pickup.

Usually Toyota guys will put a rear axle out of an IFS truck in because it is wider and better matches the front width.
 
The axle is assembled, ready to go back under the truck. Everything is new, well the housing, shafts and brake hardware is old but everything is new, haha!

I got it all together the other day, stepped back and looked at it for a second and realized something. I forgot to torque the main cap bolts on the diff. In 30 minutes I pulled the shafts, yanked the third, torqued them with red loctite and reassembled the whole thing.

I love these little axles. They're easy to work on and the parts are small and light. The rear housing with nothing in it weighs probably 45lbs.
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It's all put back together and driving again.

Last night I threw it under the truck and buttoned everything up. When I torqued down the pinion but I noticed that the pinion bearings were way too tight. This thing calls for 16-22in/lbs of force to spin the pinion, I was sitting at about 10ft/lbs. So today I popped the axles out and threw the third back up on the table. (The pinion on this thing uses a solid spacer and shims rather than a crush sleeve.) When I pulled the pinion there were .020" worth of shims on it. After stepping up in small increments I finally got it right at .055". I can't remember what I had in there when I set it up but I must have lost a shim during the assembly process. It's fixed now, the diff is smooth and quiet, it's all back together now. The brakes still suck. I've been adjusting them but they still suck. I need to keep messing with them. Anyway, tomorrow is another day.

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I crawled back under the Toyota today and finished adjusting the brakes. I got the parking brake set up correctly too. It stops pretty well, still won't lock em up but it'll do. Finishing that shit up made me so happy I washed it! Well, I hosed the moab dirt off and cleaned the windshield. Haha!

I also signed up for an event called Hump n Bump put on by Vegas Valley 4Wheelers. I'll have a friend tag along with me, we're running some of the harder stuff this time. I need to get hydro assist done beforehand, these damn tires grip, you can't steer this thing at all sometimes.
 
Tapping that box is super easy. It will take you longer to get it out and pull the pitman arm than to tap it. You will need a bottoming or finishing tap. I just cut the tip off of my regular tap to make it work. pull the sector shaft out with the 4 bolts, dont need to touch the adjuster, then pull the 10mm allen head centering valve in the top of the box before pulling out the piston. make sure you turn the input full counter clockwise before pulling it, the balls will fall out. The top port gets tapped in line with the vein that runs along the top. I stuck a string and drill bit in the open end of the vein and reached it over to the pressed in cap at the other end, this gives you a visual of where to center punch for the hole. you dont want to go so deep as to have the fitting block off flow in this vein. (circled is the 10mm centering valve. This is a bitch to remove without stripping since its so shallow. I used a manual hand impact driver)

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The second port goes wherever on the side of the sector shaft chamber. I first tried putting it on the Toyoda casting like everyone else. but quickly learned my 45* fitting wouldn't work there, so I moved it to the back. Dont go so deep here that the fitting hits the sector shaft.
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When re assembling watch the Teflon ring on the piston, it will get caught on the sharp edge of the housing just past where the sector shaft sits.

Also if you end up getting the ram that I have. you may need to cut and rotate the end. The ports originally pointed 90* to the mounting bolt holes, I had to cut and reweld it so the ports were up.
 
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I put 20ish miles on the little truck today, the diff runs quiet, smooth and cool. The brakes do, not.

I wanted to get in some break-in miles on the gear set before going crawling next month so a trip out to Boulder City was in order. I needed a haircut anyway. When I got there I could smell the rear brakes and they were smoking when I parked it. So I kept the speed down on the drive home and adjusted them after they cooled off. The diff was just warm to the touch, great success!

I love driving this thing, the looks it gets are great!

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I take it the yota's don't have the self adjusters..
They do. I had them backed off all the way to assemble everything and cranked them back out to get them close and got the drivers side a little too tight.
 
Hydro assist parts are on the way. I got the cylinder, hoses and fittings from surpluscenter.com for half of what the average hydro assist kit sells for. I'll have to build the mounting tabs and tap my steering box. I need this done before November 2nd.
 
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