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My 5.3 swap thread!

Ah yes. For the oil pressure im using autometer 2268, this guy,

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and for the temp, im going to try this sender which screws right into the block. Dont know if it will be accurate, but im going to try it out.

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Thanks, how do these work do the burbs factory sensor screw into these then up to the factory gauges?
 
Yep. But heres the breakdown. The 5.3 oil pressure sending unit is a metric 16mmx1.5, where as the old oil pressure sending unit is 1/8"NPT. The adapter screws into the 5.3 block and the oil pressure sending unit screws into that. For the water temp, im experimenting with the VDO sending unit. Its the only sending unit on the market that actually uses the 5.3's metric 12mmx1.5 thread. Whether or not it send the right signal for the gauge remains to be seen. Cant seem to find any info on it other then 300*F and 90* sweep. If this turns out not to work, there are basically three options. S&P (hotrodlane.cc) makes the only 12mmx1.5 to 3/8NPT adapter (3/8"NPT is the old school water temp sender threads) on the market that i know of. So that can be used to adapt the original sending unit to the 5.3 block. Option two for that is that autometer makes a 12mmx1.5 to 1/8" NPT adapter and with that you can use autometers 1/8"NPT temp sending unit. Problem with that is that the sending unt does not send the proper signal for the guage so it will read off about 15*. Option 3 is to drill and tap the plug in the passenger side head to 3/8"NPT. This would allow you to screw the original sending unit right into the block like factory. Looks like a pretty easy task. I just didnt want to buy the drill and tap, plus i was a little uneasy about actually doing it although tons of people have.
 
using the S&P option here, because the adapter is almost 2" long, it does get heat soaked when at a stop light. I thought the motor was 240 degrees, hooked to a scan tool it didn't even get above 200, so that was my fans not coming on "issue" lol. Motor never got hot enough to have the fans come on. It reads completely accurate from 0-190 or so, but then will vary up and down whether sitting still/driving slow or read close to perfect on the highway. Just so you're aware. No other sender other than OEM will work for the gauges and I doubt even tapping the head would fit that sender in there, due to water jackets in the head right behind it and the OEM sender is rather long/large in diameter
 
The guy that is doing my wiring just said bring the old one so he could match it up and get a new one. Said something about drilling and tapping the water pump for my temp gauge.
 
Got the motor out of the Blazer finally! Pulled off the intake and cleaned it up. Also pulled the hood off! You know its getting real when the hood comes off!

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I'm doing some research into putting a 5.3 in my blazer. Is there a way to keep the 700r4?
 
I'm not real familiar with keeping the 700r4. But all you really need I think is the same flex plate spacer I got and a adapter piece for the tv cable at the throttle body. Folks have also done some crazy stuff about hooking up the cable to in to the cab and to the pedal.
 
It is awesome! Yesterday was the last time that cursed 350 will run in this truck!

Side not, for my own info, im going to try cutting off the ear on the manifold where it hits the frame and drill and tap in closer and see if i get the clearance i need that way.

Not my truck.

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Oh yea, the truck manifold on the right side will not work unless you cut away at a already weak frame.
 
Trailblazer SS manifolds are the drug of chice usually. They exit in almost the same spot as the truck ones but tuck in a little tighter. Before i buy a set im going to try cutting off the ear on mine approx at the red line then either drill and tap a new 3/8 hole at the blue dot or two smaller holes at the green dots depending on how much meat i have left.

P1010168.jpg


Here is a link on the ctsv and other manifolds.

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/86563-lsx-exhaust-manifolds/
 
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